Jeep T5 trans in the torquetube

Hey guys,
I talked to the patern maker today and he told me that I should have castings in the next week or so. I don't know how many, but 5-10 would be a good sample size to make sure the patern was good.
Dan

 

Dan - I assume these are for S10, not Jeep, and Model-A TT, not V8??

 

This thread is so cool, too bad I started my open conversion just before I saw this!@^&*#%^#!

 

Yes the first one will be for the S-10 trans. It will work with both the A and V-8 torque tube. The only differance will be the mounting holes for the ball cup mount for the T/T.

I've contacted another pattern maker about the Jeep adapter and I will probably have him start a pattern for it soon.

Dan

 

good to hear

 

Dan,

Outstanding. Will your one casting do both A and V8, or will it be machined to order?

Great to see this coming along!!

 

Great thread and it provides a solution for me. Just have to get to that project!

 

when will they go on sale and how much $ will yhey cost?do you got a waiting list?

 

Ernie,
The S-10 casting is the same for A and V-8 but the mounting holes for the ball cup are different. There will be two A versions (Early and Late) and a V-8. I will probably carry inventory of all versions so that I can ship them when they are ordered.

 

I'll pm you with the details.

 

I have one question Crazydaddyo?? I see in your post the s10 trans has a transmission mount...Is this necessary??? I'm wondering since the bell housing is supported is it ok the just let bell housing carry the weight of the transmission...simular to try 5 chevys.Thanks

 

In the ones that I have done, I have used the trans mount. My reasoning was that in a torque tube driveline, the torque tube is the rear suspention. Like the swing arm on a motorcycle it controls the movment and the tourque of the driveline. Using the rear trans mount transfers this torque to the frame.

From what I know of the tri 5 Chevy driveline, it is an open drive shaft and they use parralell leaf springs to control the rear end.

Early Ford rear ends use a transverse spring and that spring can not control the torque of the driveline when you remove the torque tube. That is why when converting it to open drive there has to be some sort of torque arm attached to the center section of the rear end and the frame to keep the rear end from twisting on the axels.

 

CDO,
on the 5'th gear issue, the Mustang GT had 3 ratios in progressive years,
83 1/2 (84?) -.725, 84, -.625 , 85 UP -.675.

Do you know if the O/D gearset will work on the Jeep/ S-10 mainshaft/cluster?

I do know the T/5 max torque capacity is nothing to write home about,
(265 ft /lbs until 89 , then 300 in 93)

THX for any input

 

Not sure if NWC & WC 5th gears will interchange - don't have a pair to check. However, you can't just put a .62 into the Jeep and expect to get .62 - it has to do with the first gear ratio times the OD...I do know putting the Astrovan 5th into the 3.76 gearset results in a pretty good OD (.68 IIRC)

Do not be misled by max torque capacities - these are 100K mile ratings. Biggest weak point is the case - if it were cast iron, there'd be less issue with the gears trying to climb each other. Gross rule of thumb - higher gears (lower numerically) = higher torque rating. That's one of the reasons the 2.95 aftermarket gearset for the Mustangs is rated higher than the factory 3.35...in addition to some improved metallurgy.

 

I'm using the TT not converting to open drive...

 

You missed the point. If you remove the rear trans mount you transfer that torque to the rear engine mounts and that may put excessive force on the trans and bellhousing. The Tri 5 set up isn't subject to that stress because the torque is controled by the rear springs.

In my opinion you need the rear trans mount.

 

Gears are not the same between the WC and NWC...

 

I do not know if the Mustang gear set will interchange with the Jeep gears. The swap I did was to put the 1st-4th gear sets out of a Chevy S-10 2wd trans into the case of the Jeep. I did find that I had to use the 5th gear set from the Jeep because the spline on the Jeep output shaft (which is retained in this hybrid) Is different then the Chevy and the gear tooth pitch and angle are different also. That forced me to use the Jeep 5th gear on both the output shaft and the counter shaft leaving an overdrive ratio or .86.

 

You probabaly don't have .86 because you're using the 3.76 1st gearset from the S10, right? 5th will be some other combination, actually - probably better if I had to guess. Here's a post I did when figureing out the OD ratio if I used the Astro gearset - of course, I haven't checked the splines, so it's probably the same as yours...have to use the Jeep, but that helps me...

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=254912

With Astrovan input and cluster + Jeep 5th, I end up with .69 OD ratio...

 

I understand now..thanks

 

I think in an open drive conversion, you'd be fine without the rear mount, but as Dan mentions, in a torque-tube arrangement, you probably need it.

 

That adapter will work with the last of the Rambler Torque tubes too. It doesn't use a cup, but uses a square flange with a rubber bushing. So a 1/8" thick steel plate would have to be made to adapt the Rambler torque tube to the adapter, but that would be easy. I'm talking about 63-66 big Ramblers (Classic, Ambassador, Marlin, Rebel). I just don't know about the length of the T-5 vs. the Rambler T-96 (for sixes) or T-86/89 (for the 232 six and 287 V-8/327 V-8). The V-8 shaft in the tube is a two piece unit that's tubular in the front and can be shortened pretty easy, the six shaft is like an axle shaft and would have to be resplined. Well, it could be cut and a sleeve made for it and welded on both ends -- I've seen Jag IRS axles done that way. Of course shortening the tube is easy.

 

hi Crazydaddyo, would you volunteer what you did for the universal splines?
Many thanks!
SvG

 

I made the yokes.
.

 

My apologies, i somehow entered this thread in the middle. If you are offering this for sale, I'M Interested!! I also specialise in this sort of thing, but i want to both save my time, + reward a fellow 'bastardizer' (used with the greatest affection; it's a skill that relatively few devolop these daze!!)
As always, there are a few 'flies in the ointment': i have a Ford Motorsports 'WC-Z', new. I need the shortest possible version. (~34" firewall to axle c/l)
Can U e-Mail me directly?

 

It might serve you well to @ least look @ these.
They are the progenitors of a whole "boat-load" of sprint-car & midget style torque tube QC rear-end setups!

 

Sorry if i have missed something , but is there an advantage to this, over an open drive conversion?

 

Yes, the big one is you don't have to completely redesign the rear suspension - ladder bars, 4-bars, truck arms, coil-overs, etc. It also looks more "vintage".

 

it keep the structural integrity of the banjo design intact with out have inf to add a torqure arm. and it looks killer / all early dirveline looking

 

So, would i be right in thinking that open drive works well with parallel leaves but not transverse leaves or am i missing something