Hey, Hey! 1st of the Month **AUGUST Banger Meet**

Coaltown,
I realy dig your build. Man thats hardcore going with mechanical brakes!!! The header looks crazy. don't forget to tell your pasangers to be carfull opening the door. I put check straps on mine to keep the door from hitting the pipe.

Bluto,
That engine is very interesting. What is the stroke and bore?

 

Re: Mr. Burtz's block ideas. If, by some miracle, he could bring this project to fruition, at the 3K price target especially, he might have to beat customers off with a stick. After all that's less than many balanced inserted rebuilds. Heck between Snyder's, Bratton's, and Mike's I bet he could get 500 orders easy. H&H too althought it might tend to put a bit of a crimp in the rebuild market.

Wouldn't do to take the course of some efforts where orders are taken for promised delivery in six months with real delivery occuring in two years--if you're lucky. Taking the tack of using an ISO compliant offshore supplier might rub some the wrong way but doing it all here could easily double the selling price and maybe the time line as well.

 

Bore/Stroke?

We are hill climbing

Whatever I want. I don't have any rules to follow.......

I'm shooting for a working 200hp on Gasoline. With the HAL That's pretty DOable. Everything has to be pre 31 if I ever run in the UK. They don't like B blocks which is how all this started.

In the rest of Europe we can run a full Dreyer if we want.Nice to have that option.

In any case the game is Bug Stompin'

You do understand what this mess goes in?? I know it's not like a lot of the stuff here but it's what we got.......

 

I don't think the dampener does much for balance, it just helps smooth out the power impulse's, when the cylinder fires before top dead center the crank tries to stop or reverse itself and the dampener helps dampen this tendency. If you think about it maybe that is why # 4 breaks so much, the crank is trying to reverse itself and the flywheel just keeps on turning putting a lot of strain on the crank. Seems like the weakest point close to the flywheel would be the #4 throw at 1.5" dia. How much ignition advance do you have? My 2 port has about 35 degrees at 2000 RPM's.

 

I agree that the 3K goal is unrealistic, But I would rather pay more and have it made in the USA. I.M.H.O. just because an offshore source is ISO certified, doesn't mean they will build what YOU want. It just means they have the documitation for the SHIT they sent you. I have several customers who have been offshore and now have to deal with rejects, returns, and rework from "ISO" offshore vendors. In the end the cost is the same. The difference is the initial cost of tooling is much lower. So, as a potential buyer of this product, I would hope that dealing with local suppliers would shorten development and allow Mr. Burtz the confort of being able to manage the suppliers better.

My intent was not to turn this into a Political / Economical rant. So I will stop here and forever be silent on the offshore issue, Sorry

MY $0.02....

 

I agree Bill, the damper isn't for balance It's for harmonics.

If the crack issue was an issue of the inertia of the flywheel working against the compresion / firing of the #4 cyl. then a lighter flywheel would solve this issue.

I think it is more of an overstressed weakness that is caused by us tring to double or tripple the hp. The design of this engine was never intended to do what we are asking it to do. If is could be done with out the risk of failure, wouldn't everyone do it? Isn't that why the SBC is such a popular engine choice?

 

Thanks for the pic & web site info. Now i'm wondering if you want to run the stock Model A rods and stay with a 200 inch motor, what do you do, order new pistons with a different pin location??

Mike

 

The only reason to stay with 200 inches is if you are racing and the class rules say that you have to have stock displacement. Other wise stroke and bore it!!!!! Use H beam after market rods and custom Ross pistons with modified wrist pin locations. Hell......it only money!!!! don't forget the lightened flywheel. A 20 lb'er will be about good.

 

Big weekend for me, had my first drive in "The Manx".

Engine fired right up - cool, the wiring works and the distributor is in the right place. Couldn't get it to idle and eventually determined that gravity feed was not sufficient for this setup. Filled the tank all the way (was only a quarter full at first) and that allowed us to drive around some, but it definitely needs a fuel pump before it will run right.

Got the trunk mounted, battery box in trunk, battery cables made and run, and the seat mounted. We are using a Dodge minivan second row seat, it is a great fit. Flips down and we were even able to keep the slide out cupholder!

I have driven my Dad's stock '30 coupe quite a bit, but really had no idea what kind of performance to expect from this car. Well the good news is that it goes, stops, and turns much better than I had hoped for. I really like the '39 gearbox, too.

Will Kimble









Dad surprised me with the fake quickchange cover, I think he is trying to tell me something!









Dad's first drive, keep in mind that he is 6' 9" tall...

 

That looks so freeeeeeeeakin' awesome!

 

Will,
Looks like crazy fun!!!!!! Congrats

 

Lordy that is a sweet piece. And the pics are first rate as well.

 

Well, I'm sticking to what was originally done,...it worked then, it works still! Twenty-eight running and rolling Model A's at my friends place attest to this.
I was just out at a friend's place where my wife and I were invited to attend a Model A club's get together. We were actually well received by the club's members after we were introduced and what I was doing was described to the members. Even scored some spoked wheels!!


As far as the headers, thats what was run originally on the roadster i'm recreating, so thats the direction i'm heading,(no pun intended??!!)...the passenger side door was bolted shut, something i'll be doing also, but it will be something thaat can be reversed if ever for whatever reason I choose to run an alternate exhaust??

 

Will....that looks the dog's bollocks. Awesome.
And you certainly need to fit a quick-change instead of the dummy...

 

Im looking forward to being a part of the monthly banger meets here on the hamb. Im going to pick up the T touring on a A chassis (extreemly similar to Artikis tub) from Spokane next weekend. And thanks again to Artiki for the advice and to Chris for basically doing all the work selling the car to me haha. Although i may not bring anything to the table right now i will by the end of this month.

 

Will

My guess is that the carb's float is for a engine with a fuel pump

If you want to run gravity feed you need to have the right float in the carb

You'll need to look for a float off a gen pack, tractor or such with gravity feed fuel system

I ustta have all that stuff but it's packet so far away I don't know where to start looking

 

The theory is that the closer the venturi is to the inlet valve the shorter column of air needed before the mixture is in the combustion chamber
Giovanine/Spurgin car ran sidedraft Winfields as well, later Duke Hallock carbs then fuel injection.

my problem is I don't own any sidedraft Winfields and can't afford any. I will run a pair of 1bl strombergs for the time being. I will eventually run a pair of vintage SU carbs.

Btw your roadster is looking kick arse, keep at it.

 

Tuppence ha'penny here - quite a few of us are "offshore" and in recent years from our backyard there's been new Ardun heads, Stromberg 97's, and if I'm not mistaken the Brookville test pressings...? After all, Henry himself sought out J. Kent Smith to teach him the mysteries of "anti-fatigue steel".

 

...and, without wishing to get embroiled in a trans-Atlantic slanging match, I've bought some USA-made stuff for my Tudor recently which was so poor it was fit only for the bin.

 

These days we're getting into the realm of "American made",....but by illegal immigrants who get paid pennies by cheap employers, thus they could care less how they are making things.

People need to take pride in their work,,..its their signature.

I say, bring back all that was good from the 30s and 40s! Structure, morals, craftsmanship, pride of work and home, manners and lots of gow jobs!!!

 

I made my own sidedraft adapters All it took was a piece of AL, a dremel tool,a drill press, and a few beers.

 

That looks superb, Bill.

Finally decided to lose the points and condensor from my Mallory in the tub this weekend, and fitted a Pertronix Ignitor and Flamethrower coil. Took just 20 minutes to fit. I've only taken the car out a couple of times since, but it already feels more responsive and smoother at higher revs. Very happy with it.

 

I've run Petronix for many years in lots of different stuff. It is great.

Till it's not so carry your old bits in a ziplock bag tank (see I know English) taped somewhere under the dash and you'll never need it.

 

Ha ha! Funny you should say that, the old plate and points are tucked away in the back....just in case!

 

Hey is that an olds head on a chevy motor just wondering if rockers n such are the same as chev? thanks Ken

 

NICE!!!! How easy is that!!! Something to keep in mind! Anymore pics of them close up??

 

I've been following this since last year, sounds like a cool project. Hopefully it will come together and be built.

 

I played around with a hand pump for a while when I was putting the car together but in the end I got nervous and abandoned the idea for a conventional electric fuel pump.



The pump was mounted to the column. Not a very good postion because my knee was in the way when trying to pump it!



Before I started drilling holes in anything I made this up to fit where the fuel gauge goes.



This shows the tape on the tank that was used to seal it, balloning from the pressure that I had pumped into it. So it did work!

The simple rule with hand pumps is if they have an inlet and outlet they are oil pumps. True hand air pumps only have the single outlet.

 

ARTIKI.
Where did you find a Petronix to fit in a Mallory. I have an old Mallory, cast iron with the two piece top, and I haven't found anyone who sells an electonic ign. for it?

 

Well I got some good news and some bad news... My 29 is now getting a flatty, yup sorry guys. Hahaaa. Ya see, the banger came out so nice, that I'm putting it in my 32 roadster instead. I can always switch em out if I get bored, but its the direction its going in. Has been for awhile, just not sure I mentioned it.

Not just any old flatty either... Old Edmunds goodies, merc crank, you name it, the works...

So I got my front end together on the 32 this week. Still so busy with customer stuff that its been hard to work on my stuff and have a life too. Also been chipping away at my 34 for awhile now, almost there....besides paint. Thats next.

Coaltown, I gots me a nice clean torque tube for the same exaust on the 32, gonna set it up two different ways so I can sometimes use the door.

Everyone's stuff looks good....keep it up!