Bolt-in or Weld-in

I am looking to buy an IFS but am still divided between a bolt-in kit and a weld-in kit. Price isn't a factor.What do you guys think??

 

WELD!!....mine bolted in just to line up where it needed to be welded...made it real easy....

 

Welding my stuff in makes me feel better....

 

I would recommend that even the bolt in installations have a few strong welds to ensure the unit doesn't shift with usage. These welds could be placed in strategic locations that would not make it impossible to cut through them with a cutoff in the event that it would ever need to be removed.

Frank

 

I believe it was Jerry Weesner who once wrote, ''No reason you can't wear a belt and suspenders.''

 

I'm a weld in kinda guy.

 

I've never seen a bolt as strong as a good weld.

 

Unless you use....

 

Many factory vehicles have bolt in front suspensions. I put almost 300,000 on my 84 Chevy pickup with one. I would not be fearfull of it providing it is done properly with correct fastners tightened properly. Same as with a weld in, if not properly done problems will follow.

 

I believe it was Jim Niekamp, builder of the "Niekamp Roadster" who said he didn't like to weld in X-members etc. because it locked in stress. I always thought he meant that material that was forced into position and then welded would transmit that force into distorting the frame and locking in misalignment. Seems plausible to me, and when you combine that with my welding skills bolt-in is a good choice.

 

I have a lot of confidence in Ch***is Engineering products. I don't think they would market a product that did not work as advertised.

 

Recall that welding has been available to the factories for over 100 years, so why did they bother to drill/punch alot of holes for bolts/rivets ?????
It all comes down to the quality of the parts and the quality of the ***embly.

 

Just about EVERY production car and truck made has some sort of bolt in suspension cradle. I think it is another of those myths that it is the right thing to do. Obviously it is limited to a closed car where appearance is not an issue.


You weld on the crossmember and then bolt everything else onto it so not sure why the bolts would be an issue if well designed.

 

For your situation, I would bolt it in at home.

Then drive to the alignment shop and make sure it's all good.

Stop by a job shop welder on the way home, and have him finish the installation. Likely to the point the bolts are removed and replaced with weld.

Late models do have bolt in cradles, including things like F bodies with high stress. They have a lot different attachment design than street rod stuff and are driven out of need to bottom load on the ***embly line and a unitized inner fender structure to help spread the load. Leave bolt-ins to the OEM.

good luck

 

I have installed a couple bolt in kits in 39 - 48 chevys . They bolt in the factory location that U just unbolted the origional set up that did no fall out after 70 years ?the upper spring pocket is a weld in tho , TCI kits nice stuff . I dont think there would be a problem with any bolt in ,just dont buy the no name **** off ebay ​

 

You didn't say what you're putting it in, but I just bolted a Jim Meyers setup into my 54 chevy 210. Since the original was bolted in there at the factory and lasted 54 years, I think this one will be fine. My frame just sits on it, and there's very little stress on the bolts, so I see no need at all to weld it.

 

Good company ,their unit wraps around rails,havent got this one on the road yet but I am impressed with design. Talk to them ,all bolt on. Lots of drilling and work tho.

 

Personally I would never trust a front end that requires you to weld the upper spring hats to the weak, thin "top hat" portion of the frame (***uming you are talking about a Chevy). That's just asking for a tear.

I have the RBs Obsolete bolt-in on my '53 Chevy and although I don't like it and would go with Ch***is Engineering if I had it to do over, at least I know that the entire front crossmember and spring hats are bolted TO EACH OTHER, THROUGH the frame. The frame can twist or flex if it wants to and the front end is still there. (And I've had my car aligned twice over the years and the second time they didn't have to do anything - it was still right on the money after several thousand miles of driving.)

I've seen some of the weld-in units, and a lot of them rely on the strength of the frame but mount on the top hat, which was NEVER meant to carry any kind of load and especially not constant twisting and vibration.

 

important question, what is the vehicle? Is a bolt-in available for it?

 

When I was an AME apprentice I asked my boss why parts on aircraft were riveted or bolted and not welded.

His answer was "Because you know, absolutely, for sure, how strong a bolt is."

Bolt it, works for the space shuttle, should work fine for you.

Shawn

 

The 48 fleetline had a bolt in kit when we got it. I will be welding it in as soon as everything is lined up.

 

It is a 1950 Chevy 3100 Pickup

 

We put a weld-in TCI unit in a 54 Chevy P/U with the factory strut rods because the owner didn't want to spend the extra money for tubular control arms. My friend with a Hot Rod shop told me that those strut rod brackets were going to break. It took 4 years, but sure enough ,they broke! So,spend the extra money for the tubular control arms that eliminate those strut rods.

 

this thread demonstrates the ignorance of a select few..

i have 2 ch***is engineering bolt in cross members.. one in a 40 ford one in a 47 chevy..
I have close to 75000 real world miles on my 40 with no issues..

the same cannot be said of a large number of WELDIN crossmembers.. (search elpolackos posts, and cosmo.)

I have seen WAYYY too many F'ed Up weld in cross members. wrong geometry, thin material, wrong parts.. etc etc..

Far too many people think that welding is superior.. however preparation, practice and process dictate the strength of a weld..

as someone stated.. BOLTS are BOLTS..

 

Amen brother.

 

Thanks for the advice guys

 

I didn't get into this subject on one of the other threads, but I have a Jaguar suspension underneath my '57 Buick. I didn't weld it in, I bolted it in just the factory did. I even used the factory style mounts. I have faith that it will be as good as any suspension that is welded in. And I have welded in my fare share. Bolts are good....

 

I see a trend here. If everyone is saying that bolting it in is better why aren't there more bolt in kits.

 

Because a bolt-in kit requires time and engineering to make it fit the car properly and be "bolt-in"

A weld in (universal kit) leaves the fitting to you.

Cheaper for the company to make a "universal" kit and have you make it fit properly than to pay their poeple to do the work.

Shawn

 

I see as I read things I think I am gona go with a bolt in kit who else makes a kit other than Ch***is Enginerring. What kit would you use