This might sound like a non starter, but hear me out.I have a stock front 1932 wishbone for my roadster , also I bought and imported a dropped 32/36 axle.The axle turns out to be bent and the king pin holes are worn out, basically wall art. I have searched the various manufactureres sites for diamensions of axle/springs and see the Ch***is Engineering axle has 35" perch centres and the stock Ford one I have is 36 1/2".It can be had with 2" perch boss hight. Has anyone ever fitted a ch***is engineering axle to a stock w`bone without splitting it?It would have to be moved in 3/4" per leg off a centre line to get the 35"I know it would lengthen the wishbone minutely...but otherwise is this practical, if I heat the wishbone at the pivot yoke end, on each tube...obviously clamping it securly first to make sure each leg got moved identically. It seems an easy fix, but I can`t find a precedent anywhere.I would rather stick with a forged axle and realise that the cast versions are readily availabe to do a straight swap in...the original axle has cost me plenty and I`m not going to risk going that route again. I`m obviously missing seeing something here but whats the concensus from the collective brains on here? Finally, does anyone know the reason that the Ch***is Engineering axle has the weird perch measurement?
If you've already got quite a bit invested in the original dropped axle and that's what you'd really like to use, why not spend a little more and have it fixed? A good machine shop should be able to open up the kingpin bores, press fit some hard bronze alloy sleeves in, and hone them out to fit the kingpins. Then a little magic with the press should fix the bend right up. It might cost you some dough, but by the time you get done buying a CE axle and screwing around with the wishbone you'll probably be ahead. Just a thought...
I agree with the previous post. You talk about $$$ spent on the axle you have. That axle could be saved for less than the cost of a new one. IMO Ron
Just to emphasize what's been said: Fix the one have. Straightening can be done with any hydraulic press; the kingpin holes can be done as suggested or merely welded up and redrilled to .812". The axle doesn't really need any anti friction bushings since the pin is locked in place in it.
My brother used a CE axle on my Dad's 32. Because of the need to narrow the perch distance, he had to heat the yoke and basically push it forward to make up the distance that the ball went backwards after the narrowing. It was alot of work. Because of that, I agree with the others, fix that axle, or get a different dropped original one from a trustworthy source.
Yeah, or you could do it the way my grandfather did with his 58 pickup. Heat up the axle ends cherry red and smack them with a big hammer to collapse the kingpin bores slightly. Re-bore and ***emble.
It has to take a lot of time to set up and bore those king pin holes CORRECTLY, then alighn them, after you have straightened the axle. New axle may be the way to go. I always feel bad about the shipping costs guys have to pay outside the USA, has to really add up over the time of the build.
For most stuff shipped to Australia I usually end up paying just under double the shelf price. Shipping and $conversion. Strangely, that still usually works out cheaper than buying locally and you can get the part you want. On the axle. I agree with most of the others above. Bore and sleeve the original. Pain in the **** but not insurmountable. Pete
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