Hey guys. Here's a 2-nighter for ya. A close to stock looking model A front crossmember... 1-start out with some 2 X 3 tubing. 2 x 4 could work as well if you want a more flared look, or are making a crossmember for a 32, 36 40 style, or even a rear crossmember... Cut it a little long cause it will be easier to trim to fit the frame, or if your really picky ears can be cut and bent to copy a real A crossmember. 2-Cut off the bottom as straight as possible. I like to use a metal-bladed bosch jig saw. Keep that scrap! 3-Now mark your "inset" lines, using the spring width as the center guide. An easy way is to have 2-3 inches out from center ( each side), then make a couple inch straight spot for the radiator mounts on the outer side, then draw your diagonal line. 4.Cut away...as straight as you can... 5.Now tack it all together. Don't tack the vertical cuts yet. 6. For the vertical drop, these cuts need to be made. There are little triangles in the center there to fill the gap. This drop measurement directly changes the front ride heighth. 7. welded up... also there are 2 strips underneath there, cut from the first scrap piece... 8.Those are welded to the bottom, the new lip. That was the first night! It was about 6 hours but there were some distractions. 9.Now for the clamp. I used a stock one but there were some issues... Holes are marked... 10. Holes are cut and the u-bolt is positioned. The issue was I didn't have a stock model A u-bolt, so they had to be sectioned. If you look carefully there is a little piece of aluminum under the weld. Yeah it melts but it doesn't stick... 11. All welded up... 12. After its all welded up, the lip needs to be reinforced... 13. Am ugly side and a pretty side... 14. I like to weld both inside and out, but with tigging not much grinding is necessary inside. 15. The ALMOST finished crossmember! 16. Since the frame isn't mocked up yet, I haven't had the exact measurement to cut the ears, that is why the extra inch or so each side. Then it will have the stock A riveted look... 17. Also, not sure what front spring will be used yet, so the center hole will either be round or square. 2 nights!! TP
Good stuff Zibo! I've been thinkin' of doing something similar.....but after cutting out the triangle piece, use a clamp to "pull" in the side, rather than cutting out and rewelding it (like below).....does that make sense? Also, is that .120 wall?
Thanks! Yes it is 120. For a lighter model A/flathead it should be strong. Maybe for a heavier car/engine thicker steel might be better, but this is close to stock thickness. The vertical piece needs to stretch, so its either a centerline cut or 2 verticals, and since the spring needs to be positioned, didn't want to rely on bending the vertical piece since its not totally removed. TP
Yeah, I figured that with a little torch heat, that the vert could be pulled in with a big C-clamp.....but then again, maybe not. May just be too much metal to stretch? Either way, I'll be making one soon. Thanks Zibo!
Ha yeah its pretty much a $1000 front crossmember kit!! Actually there's probably 9 hours into all of it, measuring over and over takes the most time. but I was a little distracted too... TP Hey ya feeling old!?!
When a project was kinda stalled, we'd say "too much thinkin' not enough drinkin' " Sometimes you just have to start cuttin, and that clam juice really helps! TP
Nice work, but I have a question for you. Budweiser and Clamato???!!?!?!?! Makes my stomach turn just thinking about that! You'd have to make mine a Bud light and Clamato! Ok I thought it was a joke, until I googled it.
Great idea and fab work but I have to say I can't stop looking at that Bud and Clamato can??? WTF is that???? I have been guzzling beer since 8th grade did I miss something along the line??? I thought limes were strange.
Nice work on the crossmember. The U bolts make me a little leery as U-bolts have to deliver bolt-quality tensile strength, or so I've always believed. Good luck with it all.
Good technical post and great pictures, but use copper instead of aluminum as it wont melt and please no more cutting and welding U bolts , I saw what happened to a buddy of mine when his center bolt broke and it was not pretty so you really should consider non welded hi tensile U bolts, so we can get to read your next tech post.
Old news. Old geezers have been mixing that up for years....YEARS! Supposed to be great for hangovers too. Budweiser just decided to capitalize on the idea! Great front crossmember, you could'a stopped before adding the droop in the center for a really slammed unit, but you said that, sorta.
This wasn't the first time i'd done that u-bolt section. One of my hot rods has the rear bolts done up like that, 6 years so far, kinda hard driving, still going. Now i've got a special method, almost like forging, where you hammer on the weld right after. It is a good point though, if you don't trust your welds, than skip that step! TP also I didn't have a piece of copper at the time, but that does work the best.
The problem encountered without that center drop, is that the spring ends up hitting the frame, so the frame needs to be notched, especially on the inside, unless you have a really high arched spring. TP
Bud's version is geared toward the southwest and is the production version of a chelada. It's an acquired taste thats for sure, but a mexi-bottled beer, clamato, tabasco, horseradish, li'l lime & marg-salt is top shelf! TP
REAALLLY nice fab skills! Yeah, cheaper to buy one, but the satisfaction of a well done job like that is priceless. Great job. Perley
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