I'm thinking I can make some adjustments to the rear bones on my roadster to accomodate the new 9" I'm installing. If I 'clearance the area between the bolt holes (where it bolts to the rear end) to clear the 3" tube, I can bolt the bones up to the rear end much like the factory did it, just with some spacers to clear the backing plates. I don't thik I need to remove much material and I think the stresses wouldn't be too much to worry about, but am I asking for trouble? Here's a pic. It's the area between the bolt holes that needs to be clearanced. r PS: I do have a plan "B" in the wings that will be a tech post soon.
The factory had a 3rd link - the torque tube. You will need to do something similar along with some sort of bottom brace for the rear of the bones to make it a little stronger. I would guess you are going to a 9" rear because you have some ponies. Ladder bar links might be better. Hard to say when we have no idea of the rest of your combination. This has been covered a lot of times some recently. Try some advanced searches of the subject matter. Charlie
I guess I need to clarify somethings. I ran this setup with the banjo rear. Two bones- split with a panhard bar and the spring mounted behind the axle. I'm doing the same thing, but with a 9". See attached image. r
Robin The strength in the original mount is in the flange. If you break through the flange you'll need to put another flang (reshaped) in its place.
There was a thread by 5wbomber regarding "bones" breaking and the damage it caused. From the photos, the flange broke and also twisted the front mount.
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