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Engine Help for hot rod

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by traditionalrod, Oct 19, 2008.

  1. traditionalrod
    Joined: Oct 21, 2007
    Posts: 19

    traditionalrod
    Member
    from Canton SD

    I am going to start building the engine for my future hot rod. It's a 65' 283. I want to build it into a hi-revving motor (8000-9000). My question is what is the best way to do that? Destroke? Leave it and put lighter stock rotating ***embly? I am building this motor in vo-tech school we don't have machining equipment so I don't really want to do a lot of machining. As for budget I don't have a specific dollar amount in mind just reasonable I want it to be reliable so more money to make it reliable is ok.
    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks
     
  2. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,036

    belair
    Member

    Bore it out .060 or .125, balance it and spin it like a top.
     
  3. bobblehead
    Joined: Dec 6, 2006
    Posts: 365

    bobblehead
    Member

    do a search on here and you will find many opinions on the best route. i would just build the 283, with hi-compression pistons and make it breathe...possibly bored it out a bit more. many factors involved, but get a game plan goin before you start buying parts and spending money. oh yeah, the research WILL pay off.
     
  4. beernut
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 139

    beernut
    Member
    from solvang

    i just put one in my '55. 283+.060(292),12-1,aluminum flywheel,iam using 194 camel hump heads but make yours breathe, roller cam,balance it for sure,arp bolts (or studs),knife edge the crank,magnito or msd ign, iam using points but thats just old school ,tunnel ram
     
  5. man-a-fre
    Joined: Apr 13, 2005
    Posts: 1,311

    man-a-fre
    Member

    Use 66,67 sj 327 rods with good bolts,or aluminum rods if budget allows.Get a steel crank and lighten rotating ***y. as said knife edge crank run a mid year vette pan and tray caps and studs.dz offroad cam or roller grind.
     
  6. deucemanab
    Joined: Apr 19, 2006
    Posts: 238

    deucemanab
    Member

    Give your motor number so we can tell more about it? Should be located on the drivers side, back of block,behind head. Deucemanab
     
  7. deucemanab
    Joined: Apr 19, 2006
    Posts: 238

    deucemanab
    Member

  8. hotroddon
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 28,240

    hotroddon
    Member

    9000 rpm small block? First you're going to need a good steel crank. Cast cranks have a really short life over 6500 or so. Heads, getting enough cross section in the port to make any HP over 7000 is going to take some pretty trick heads. Rods, stockers will fall out at that rpm. Camshaft, hydraulics will never survive, 8000 is too much - so your going to have to go mechanical roller. valve springs - at least duals, ***anium retainers, lightweight valves. roller rockers.
    You are really heading into pretty trick technology to make a SBC live at 9000 rpm. Yeah they do it in NASCAR, but hey, those engines only run $30,000+
     
  9. dieselc
    Joined: May 17, 2004
    Posts: 1,315

    dieselc
    Member
    from ohio

    Yes do a search there was just a thread up for high revving low cube small block engines.
     
  10. my suggestion is to reconsider your plans of spinning your engine 8000-9000 rpms . why do you feel that is necessary?

    if you go ahead anyway , make sure you have a ****tershield
     
  11. SOCAL PETE
    Joined: Oct 19, 2006
    Posts: 1,204

    SOCAL PETE
    Member
    from Ramona CA

    Destroke it???
    I don't think you want to mess up a good rod ratio. It is almost perfect as is.
    Balance the bottom end to a gnats ***. STEEL crank.
    Aluminum flywheel. A high quality balancer. Arps rod bolts for eveything in the bottom end. Forged pistons.
    Roller rocker and a solid lift cam.
    That engine was capable of turning the high rpms back in 56 to 58.
    Let the engine breath with a bit more porting and decent exhuast. Your objective should be achieved.
    I achieved mid 7k with my 289 using the same recipe using stock reconditioned rods and a stock cast crank.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2008
  12. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,985

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

    Don't mean to throw cold water on you plans but why would you need to rev any engine 8-9,000 RPM? Just the statement takes the project COMPLETELY out of the street driven world. Now, with that UNDERSTOOD (if you don't understand there's a whole lot more work/research to be done before proceeding) how can a student afford to invest the time and money into a project of this nature?
    I think what we have here is the result of too many magazine articles/dreaming/inexperience/did I mention dreaming? One "small" example: the valvetrain alone will require the investment of a couple thousand dollars just for entry level components to knock on the door of this fantasyland wet dream.
    I've been doing this sort of thing for over 40 years so there is the possibility that I don't have a clue (if so then I'm not alone:eek::D)

    Frank
     
  13. I think since he has a 2000 Civic, that maybe he thinks that Chevy's can spin like that and be happy.
     
  14. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,897

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    As said, I think you need to re-evaluate your expectations. I ***ume this future hot rod is a street rod on pump gas? There is plenty of info on how to build an affordable and streetable +.060 or +.120 283 that will turn 6200-6300 RPM all day long. I built several for my '55 in my youth. However, to get from 6200 to 8000-9000 RPM takes you way out of the streetable and pump gas catagory. But if that's where you really want to end up, I would not base it on a 283. just my $0.02.
     
  15. Shaggy
    Joined: Mar 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,207

    Shaggy
    Member
    from Sultan, WA

    Nothing wrong with a 283 just make sure it's a forged crank and ballenced you have the good late factory rods already. if it's a street motor aluminum rods arent the best, cuz with alum if it is streached over and over it breaks unlike steel which takes a lot more to fatigue
     

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