My comment about limp ford 302's is that there were some out there which kinda stale the reputation, 8 to 1 limp cammed ect, whereas the chev 302's were either 301s that were usally built HOT or dz302's that were hot from the factory that is why the chev's are remembered as killers and the fords arnt as much BTW a boss 302 didnt have a chance against a dz302, but may not have been as full race Also dont use a cast monza crank when you can use a forged 283 crank with spacer bearings in a large journal block
I have read the words cheap and fuel saving mouse motor. What kinda of combo would you build for a little cheap fuel saving motor?
I did this mental exercise this week! 267 block = 3.500" bore 262 crank = 3.100" stroke 6" connecting rods 267 pistons surfaced -.020 267 60.5cc heads resurfaced to 54cc .041" head gasket 231 c.i. w/8.6:1 c.r. The only machining needed FOR FITMENT is pistons. Heads machined to raise c.r. to respectful level. Slap it in a fiberglass (did I say that out loud?) T-bucket....reallt light. It'd scream!
I totally LOVE 301s. Been collecting late [60s] 283 blocks and steel cranks in hopes of finding the right pistons....FINALLY! I was perusing the DesMoines swap meet and found [and bought] these babys...notin holding me back now except good rods and I found some "H beam" race units right here on the HAMB.... Now, I gotta science out a good solid lifter cam.
i like oddball 60's-70's shit most people would ignore that makes wild and weird power in strange places... always have... i've seen a few wild ass 273 Mopars in action... ridden in a Fo MoCo hi-po 289 that sounded like a hair dryer about to explode and am a huge fan of the "283" here's one engine combo i'm tinkering with... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45615&highlight=perfume+pig
Hey, I have that Desktop Dyno software-- and a cam selection utility that they sell also. If you want me to run a couple numbers I'd be happy to do so.
I saw an article in a copy of Drag Strip from '66 about a guy racing a 260 powered Ranchero. He punched it out .060, added everything from the Shelby adds and was turning 12's. I want to add 3/8 of stroke and a .030 bore to my 289 to make it a 331. With a forged lightweight crank, good rods and flyweight pistons it will see 7500+. Car Craft just built one. I guess the hot setup before stroker cranks were cheap was to put a Boss 302 crank, HiPo 289 rods and forged pistons in a Mexican 302 block, and top it with 2bbl Cleveland heads.
I know most of you guys are just bench racing, but I'm actually building the baddest '56 265 that I can with almost entirely late-50's/early-60's parts. Not the smallest Small Block, but actually the biggest combo I can get out of a '56 block. Here's an overview of the parts... '56 'FG' code 265 Corvette block, bored .125" over...cut down '62 327 3.25" stroke crank, balanced with heavy metal...Jahns domed pistons, somewhere between 10.5:1 and 11:1 compression...new aftermarket 5.7 (I-beam) rods...fully ported and polished '57 Fuelie heads with Ferrea 1.84 intakes, Manley 1.5 exhausts...small Isky solid roller cam (.485 lift/278 dur)...4 Stromberg 97s on a ported Weiand 4x2 (staggered) manifold...Isky rev kit...Isky 2-gear positive gear drive...Weber aluminum flywheel...Vertex HEI type Mag...very early Hedman headers. It ends up as a 306" stroker (306.6 actually) in a '56 Vette block. "E.C." here on the Hamb is doing the machinework, and it's nearly done. So I'll be able to let you guys know how it runs pretty soon. It's going in a Model A Roadster with a Super T-10 4 spd and a Halibrand quickie....I expect it to be a pretty fun combo.
I'v found 262's in everything from monzas to novas to caprices. I would get so pissed off when I paid good money for a core motor and it was one of those little things. LOL They are getting pretty rare tho. I havn't seen one in a few years.
small journal 350(1970 impala), with a 327 crank .............thats the shit if you want rpm's-destroke
while we're knee deep in the bench racing, lets see what else can be done. im thinkin: 327 block 283 crank 11-11.8 to 1 pistons small journal h-beam rods quiet gear drive setup good balance job k, this is what id like to know more about. is the cam mentioned above as big as youd go? what about more of a circle track/bracket race roller? too much cam? what about heads? most nice flowing heads are 2.02 valved, either iron or alum. should be ok tho right? what about an intake? i know the best option would be a victor type deal, but what vintage style would handle the higher rpms ok. i like the stagered 4x2 barrel setups, but will the support a well built motor, or would you run out of steam up top? aluminum flywheel to support the revs, or a heavier one to help get the car movin? i wouldnt build somethin like this for anything other than a lil coupe or roadster, so it would be a light weight car. just lookin to learn here, lemme know what you think.
I had a home built 302 screamer in my 57 Chevy convert, back in 78-9. 327 block, 283 steel crank, 12 1/2-1 pistons, ported and polished angle plug heads, short track roller cam, roller rockers, Torquer intake with a 750 double pumper. That sucker would make the mechanical tach BUZZ when it was revving! With 4:88's and a Muncie, it was still kinda doggy off the line (HEAVY car!) but once it got going....to paraphrase...hang on for mercy! I oughta build a car like that again.....
Small high rpm engines are fun,but a 350 can be built easily to trun 7500 plus rpm too.For the price of a house you can by a Hendrick's NASCAR engine that'll run 9000 rpm for hours on end,And since it not really a SBC ,it won't be a cookie cutter engine
So what your saying is your building a 307 out of a 265. Hopefully all the upgrades will make a runner out of it.
You guys are still talking big cubic inches...I was reading the Nov. 69 Hot Rod the other day (Bonneville coverage) and read a photo caption about the Larsen and Cummins streamliner; 180 c.i. sbc....290mph!! Here's a little more: http://www.petersen.org/default.cfm?DocID=1014&cat=SPEED%3A+THE+WORLDS+FASTEST+CARS+&ExhibitID=280
I built a 61 283 .040 over bore which makes it a 289,It has the 10.5 to 1 aluminum flat tops in it soon to be changed out to run the newly relaesed 283 hiperf, corvette pistons,h-beam rods steel crank big mother thumper thumper cam and a weiand 2x4 tunnel ram and soon to have 4 dueces adapted to it with a noisy gear drive its not been fired yet but im hoping it will make decent power i wanna pull the front wheels on my coupe the first time out.With a 10 inch Radir i hope to acheive this but we will see.
Yep, that's pretty much what GM did. I believe the reason for it's inception was to have an engine displacement that would be legal in Trans Am racing, which had a cubic inch limit of 305 cu. in. at the time, IIRC.
No, I'm building a 306. Just like a bored out "301" hot rod small block isn't the same as a factory "302" (DZ302). Besides, no matter how many cubic inches I squeeze out of it, it still began life as a '56 265. I'd actually like to see more guys use the early (no sidemounts) small blocks in their hot rods...it's a lot more challenging than building a later 283/327/350/400/whatever. Semantics to be sure, but hot rodders have been calling their bored out 283 a "301" for decades (301.6 CI), so I see no difference in calling my stroker 265 a "306" (306.6 CI). The idea was to build what would have been a "state of the art"/ circa 1957-59 small block, starting with a '56 265 Corvette block. All the factory parts, and about 90% of the aftermarket parts were available by 1959...with the exception of the 327 crank, which would have been a 1/4 inch welded stroker. I know most of you guys don't get it, and could care less about building a 'period perfect' hot rod engine. But then maybe you should ask yourself why you are spending time on a traditional hot rod forum. You can tell me if it's a 'runner' after I give you a good look at my taillights.
Bass how much clearance is there in the 265 block for the extra stroke? I know about the counterweight issues. I'm just wondering about the rods. Was there any grinding done on the block to make it work?
Eric (E.C.) ended up milling clearance into the bottom of the cylinders...pan rail side...about .150 for the rod bolt. He used an endmill to cut the clearance basically in the area between the bore and the oil pan rail, I believe. The crank ends up looking like a 265/283 (3" stroke) crank after being cut down to fit in the 265 block.