Definitive S-10 Frame Swap Vehicle List

What are those of you with 41-49 Binders doing for a rear axle? The bed width is
48 5/8" and the width at the backside of the stock wheels is 46".

 

Personal preference with purpose-built stuff usually dictates the outcome of the project. I mean, if you're never going off-roading, you probably won't build a 4x4.

To some, they sit funny. Others love 'em. Although I'd likely never do it, my F2 WOULD look pretty cool as a 4x4, but only with 8-lug vintage steelies, and maybe OD green paint & a white star on the door.

~Jason

 

Ask BinderRod on here.

~Jason

 

His is a 39.I don't know if the beds are the same width.

 

The D series 1937-1940 bed are narrower then the K/KB series 1941-1949. The D's bed is 47 1/8" wide. On my 1942 K-2 i have a Scout 2 rear dana 44 thats is 58" wide not sure if its going to work since i haven't put a bed on it yet but by measureing it, it should work.

 

Sorry - I meant Terrarizer. And there he IS!!!

~Jason

 

I'm to lazy to dig through 25 pages to see if this has been mentioned or not.... but.....


I Have a question.


I bought a motor mount kit from s-dime.com that plants a V-8 in the S-10 chassis. Their kit works off the original V-6 motor mounts..... my chassis came with a four banger. I unbolted the four banger motor mounts and thought i'd throw the V-6er's on there...... then it dawned on me. How the hell do you get a nut and washer back up inside the front crossmember????? Anybody know a trick to make the job easier?


The only thing i could come up with is a couple a drops of crazy glue on the washer.... stick it to the nut so it sits right on top of the socket and use every wobble and extension I have to get the crazy angles to get up in there. If that doesn't work, I guess i'll be dropping the lower a arm.

Anybody??? Beuller?????

 

First off, I know your answer is in here:
http://www.v8s10.org/

Second, I'm putting the link up for now, and I'll try later on to post the specific one you need. I believe it may have pictures. I also know that if you flip through a Haynes or Chilton manual for the S-10 while in line at the local auto parts store that the info is there (with pics) as well - sometimes I take a camera phone pic of the page for later.

~Jason

 

Yep, off comes the lower a-arm... it sucks but it's pretty much the only way to do it. while you have the lower a-arm off and you bolt that sucker on, see if you can spot weld the nuts to the crossmember...

 

i have a 96' S10 and the nuts already is spot weld...

 

Thanks for the info!


Here's a pic from when we first set the cab on the frame. The rear cab mounts had been cut off at this point and I bolted up some junk fenders to see about where the cab would sit. I have a plan for the front of the cab..... we'll see if it works or not....


btw..... here's a link to the build up pics (so far!):http://public.fotki.com/ButchP56/my-rides/kimmies_slo_mo_rumble/

 

And here is your answer, from http://www.v8s10.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=20662

Any easy way to remove 2.5 mounts?

Adran
Is there any way to remove the 2.5 Iron Duke mounts other than disassembling the entire front suspension? They seem to have bolts on the backside, closed up inside the frame, that are completely inaccessible without major work spent removing all that stuff... and I really don't want to get into it.




Rickracer
If you did a search, this question is asked at least once a month. You CAN get to the nuts from underneath with an extension and a swivel socket, but because of the extreme angle, just hold them, and loosen the bolts from the top. Or you can get to the ones on the passenger side with a wrench through a hole in the frame, and drill one to match on the driver's side.

 

I just found this post:
http://www.v8s10.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=8510

Click the link above for more info.

There's templates to make your own motor mounts, plus scads of info about every mount type and conversion!



~Jason

 

I was just reading that! Just thinking out loud..... I have the adaptors he wouldn't recommend. but his main reason for not recommending them is because it sets the engine too high. I really don't think that would be a problem for me. I'll see how it all fits together and if worse comes to worse i'll just scan his templates.

THANKS AGAIN!!!!

 

I made my own mounts.
After removing the factory motor mount stands.
Very simple and about $2 worth of material.
These are on my 2WD V8 S10 Blazer.

I used a piece 2" square tube about 3" long. Welded it to the frame. It has a hole in the center to bolt 68-72 Chev 1/2 ton PU V8 mounts to. You access the motor mount bolts through the end of the square tube you see.

I had to try 2 different oil pans to get one that fit. I think the pan I used was off a early 70's Impala but not 100% sure. There's about 3/8" gap between my pan and factory X-member.

A bonus to this style mount is during fab-up you can bolt the 2" tubing to the mounts and slide the engine around until it suites you.



Lots more S10 stuff can be found here.
http://www.blazinlow.com/forum/index.php

 

Freakin' SWEET!

Never thought to look at a Blazer board, man! Good one!

~Jason

 

I hope your wife is soing well. I have gone through this whole thread looking for info on an S-10 swap under a 41 Ford Sedan. My kid can use a new frame and he can get an S-10 for nothing most likely from his contacts at the tract. Hoping to hear back from you and seeing some of the photos you mentioned in your prior post.

Anyone else know of a swap like this?

 

I had the same problem. I drill and tapped the other holes that line up with the mount and it worked fine.

 

I also moved the motor back 4". I swap the left and right mounts and the right side I cut the coversion mount that bolts to the motor apart and cut the mounting area out of the frame. with that said I still need to box the right mount at the frame in.

 

myfriend who is making the drawing for motor mounts is in holiday...

so for now i send you my dimensions they are in Millimeters (MM)

 

I like the Metric System better - always have.

There - I've said it.

Seriously - for scientific applications, and anything really, it can't be beat. And besides, I'm absolutely abominable with fractions.

Here's an online converter if you folks want to convert the measurements.
http://www.onlineconversion.com/length_common.htm

~Jason

 

I posted this way back in early 2007. It's time I posted it again, in a thread for folks that would care: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=158469

Man, now all you need is a camera phone pic of the glove box door and this site to decode those S-10 RPOs! You don't even have to look at the rear end itself to find out the gear ratio, etc (for those of you shopping for S-10 chassis or rear ends).

Just type 'em in and hit Return!

http://www.s10forum.com/rpo/

~Jason

 

Yes, this link is about what you think it is:
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f13/drum-to-disc-brake-rear-end-swap-how-to-167132/

Drum-to-disc brake conversion, S-10 rear end!

~Jason

 

Yeah, I know it's from Minitruckin' magazine, but here's a how-to (with pics) about swapping from stock leaves to a 4-link (in kit form).
http://www.minitruckinweb.com/tech/...y_s10_four_link_suspension_install/index.html


Makes this:



Into this:



~Jason

 

Haven't posted on this thread for awhile, thought I'd share my progress, not much but a little something. Here's some pic's of my motor mount's and transmission mount. Im running a T-5, so the clutch brake set-up is next, sound's like a pretty good winter project to me, more to come.
Later,
Billy

 

nice work dude...

 

Has any one used the stock S10 master cylinder without the booster witjh stock S10 brakes?

 

i'm using a complete s10 but maybe you can explain morte what you mean...??

 

I am mounting the master cylinder inside the cab and have limited space. I was wondering if the master cyclinder would work well without the brake booster attached?

 

Man - that's a good question!

I don't see why not.

~Jason