Definitive S-10 Frame Swap Vehicle List

Has anyone ever tried to mount a 235 straight six on a S-10 frame with power steering?

 

The way Tingler did it is truly inspiring... but his picture won't load:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123461

You'll have to PM him to send it or post it or something. It's really awesome.

~Jason

 

I already posted his pics
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3302013#post3302013

 

I think something got lost in translation.... you're way makes more sense than what I was told on another forum. THANKS!!!

 

Maybe i'm wrong but i see a lot of people doing it like this







maybe someone can make a good picture and post it...

 

Keep in mind that's an entirely different plate you have in the pictures.



I just got back in from checking and no matter which way I turn the adaptor plate it will not fit the crossmember. It does however bolt right up to the side of the block. The bolt still goes through the rubber bushing on the motor mount, no matter which side it's on..... so it should work just fine. I might have it flipped around backwards, though.



btw..... I have the picture Tingler posted saved....... somewhere..... i'll see if i can find it.

 

Thanx for your reply i wil try it Asap. its too bad that there are no better pics online to find on this subject..

 

This is what I was going by:


"Engine mounts for installing a small block Chevy v8 in your 2 wheel drive s10 truck, HD Steel construction. These s10 v-8 swap mounts allow maximum adjustment of engine placement. These are proven to fit. These bolt up to the 2.8 frame mounts, if your truck did not come from the factory with a 2.8 V6 then you will also need to purchase a pair of 2.8 frame mounts."
http://www.s10v8.com/store/product_...id/33?osCsid=c4907d197ac72dc03a919255adc21a9a

 

this is my frame as you can see the adapter plate would fit i have no idea if the rubber plate would fit..

 

Awesome - post it, man! It'll come in handy for everybody that does this swap!

Also, here's another method, similar to his, but through the windshield:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302730



~Jason

 

If you're referring to an adaptor plate like mine keep this in mind,

the frame mount (rubber) section of the stock motor mount is slotted vertically. The plate will fit the frame or the motor.

The adaptor plate is slotted horizontally to set the location for the motor. It will ONLY move front to back. If the slots don't fit the frame, you're only options is to modify the plate. No matter how you turn it, it still won't fit.

 

I have a chevrolet s10 2wd 4cyl. frame i have got this kit :

http://www.s10v8.com/store/product_...id/53?osCsid=cdf51497be418e3ff8cfe8ff59a9a45c

 

Also keep in mind mine is a '91. It is quite a bit different from yours where the motor mounts.

 

ok. Same plate. I had already bought the V-6 frame mounts.

 

yeah i can see that i dont have to worry about nuts because in my 96' its already welded....



but the real different what i see is that i have 2 more holes..

 

I was wrong. This is the post I grabbed pictures from:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=172723


I believe this is the one Tingler based his on.

 

Ok. I can see it better in that picture. I thought yours had a raised area. That must be road grime around where the 4-cylinder mount was.

So everything else should be basically the same.

 

That's IT!!!!!

Haywood, YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!!! I've been looking for that post!

bigtumtum, check THIS out!

~Jason

 

I already did nice post good advse guys thanx

~Rob

 

Posted by TagMan here:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=172723

I'm posting it up for others. It's beautiful!

Enjoy!

~Jason


TECH: Lifting a Pick-up cab off the frame

I finished the mock-up on my '46 Chevy 1/2T and started tearing it apart. I got down to lifting the cab off, but nobody was around, so I used what I had available. Maybe this has been done before and I just "re-invented the wheel", but maybe it'll help somebody ......

First off I found a 2"x6" about 6' long, measured it, marked the mid-point and drilled a 3/8" hole about 1-1/2" from the edge.

I then made up a bracket out of 3/16" steel scraps I had laying around and welded it together.

I next took a 12" scrap of square tubing, that just fit inside the boom on my cherry picker, and welded the bracket to one end of it. I inserted the tubing into the boom, marked & drilled a 3/8" hole for a bolt to secure it. The bracket had to be tall enough to allow the beam to pivot and stay level as the boom was raised.

I screwed on a couple of small angle iron scraps on opposite edges of the 2"x6", to prevent and slipping, and covered them with a piece of bicycle tubing and taped 'em with electrical tape.

I then moved the balance beam into position and, after a couple of tried to balance the cab, lifted the cab and pulled it off the chassis. I previously had made up a dolly for the cab, making sure the legs of the cherry picker would fit under it, so I laid the cab on the frame and bolted it in. Worked like a charm and I saved calling in some favors for something important !!

Here's a few pics that'll prolly explain it way better than I tried to with words - hope it helps...............................











...I was also a little concerned about stability, but was amazed at how well it stayed balanced, even when rolling it around, hanging from the cherry picker - never wavered a bit.

 

Without going thru all 29 pages , I have a few questions regarding the rear half of the frame concerning some measurements. I borrowed this pic from earlier in the thread.

A and or c is the width, is it the same at a and c where I have it marked or does the measurment stay the same or where and how much is its widest point? I guess I could have added e for a width measurment at the very rear also if it's differant?

B= height of the rail and D is i.d. of the frame rails or just how wide is the rail section itself? Thanks, Bill

added: can I also get a measurement from the axle centerline to the rear of the frame?

 

I posted this earlier. Download this .PDF and keep it close to your heart, always.

~Jason

 

Thanks, that helps alot

 

Ain't it badass?
I'm going to have to edit the initial post and add it in!

~Jason

 

Either way works.
Originally the rubber mounts were always bolted to the engine block. In the mid to late 70's GM decided to mount the rubber mount to the frame and cover both sides of the rubber with a steel shell, this style is called the "Clam Shell" design.

Pros: The old style was much easier to replace when it wore out than the newer "Clam Shell" stlye. All that was needed is to jack the engine up and unbolt the mount and replace it.

Con: The old style rubber mount requires replacement more often than the newer "Clam Shell" design. The "Clam Shell" design will last 2 - 3 time longer than the older style because of the metal casing reinforcment.

Nonetheless, either one works well. In fact, the race cars don't even utilize rubber engine mounts; it's steel to steel so all engine torque goes directly to the rear axles and doesn't get lost in the rubber obsorbtion of the engine mounts. This however does not lend itself nicely to vibrations from the engine hitting your back side while at idle, but who cares when you're racing!!

 

nice idea but would that also work with a 1ton or do i need a 2ton??

 

I think that if your cab is stripped pretty bare, that it could easily be lifted by the 1-ton. Of course, this is based on how much my F2 cab "feels" like it weighs.

~Jason

 

I believe it would not be a big of differnce and yes my cab is empty sanblasted and just waiting for me to pick it up..

 

Wish I was that far along.

~Jason

 

yeah and i wish that i can buy a oldie in the usa and drive itf or 2weeks and then ship it to europe... but shipping is still to expansive