funny thread, I put a 350/350 in my 54 dodge, freaked all my die hard Mopar buddies out, but its what I had and its healthy and cheap to repair. I'll send you pictures of my mounts and exhaust if you need.
I'm not sure if the gauges that are in it work. I've never dealt with a 6 volt system though...If I go 12 volt, do I have to change all the electrical?
The oil pressure and water temperature gauges are mechanical, so they don't care. The ammeter measures amps, so it won't care, either, although if you use an alternator that exceeds the ampacity of the ammeter it will peg. The gas gauge might care as it really a voltmeter that gets its signal from the variable resistance in the tank (the float gauge). If needed, you can install the same resistance as the tank sender in series.
There is a polarity issue too. Go here and scroll down to 6V to 12V for info. http://www.merc583.addr.com/mopar/framesets/techtipframeset.html Those guys are more rabid than me, so I'd avoid the forums... Good luck on the build
Yes, if you are swiching from positive to negative ground, you might also have to reverse the wires at the back of the gas gauge and ammeter.
hey guys i have a similar situation i have a 1950 dodge coronet and i want to update the fron sus can anyone tell me if their is a mustang 2 crossmember that will fit or will i have to subframe. Also what kind of subframe should i use i am using a mopar motor 318 if i can find one reasonably with a 727 trans also what about the rearend and sugestions???
The front susp is not a bad design as is and there are disc brakes kits available (send a PM to Olddaddy). If you are looking for a donor car, the Volare or Diplomat size is good and you also get the engine, trans and rear axle along with hundreds of odd bits and pieces. If you keep the stock front susp then you will need a 66-67 Dart driver side exhaust manifold. This subject has been covered many times, suggest that you use the search function. .
Just wonderin'... would a Dakota front-end work? Don't have time today to do any searches, but I have a feeling it MIGHT just work. They seem to be pretty easy to find.
I really like mopar to mopar myself, but seeings you don't even have a drivers permit yet, that usually means no money or much of a budget...so put what you can get ahold of in there, make it safe to drive and enjoy your first mopar. Take plenty of pictures of your baby and save them so 50 years from now you can say this was my first car....not an econobox
In 1960 a kid named Bob Lagana out of Scarsdale, NY took a 57 Corvette 265 mated to a 55 Chevy gearbox and put it in his 46 Plymouth Coupe. The rear end he used was a 49 Ford with 4:11 gears. He only offset the engine 1/2 inch to the passenger side. Steering wasnt changed at all. Go that route....make the car look as if it was made back in the day.
I know this is a old forum,but I have a 50 coronet and a 305/ th350 combo I want to use. Can the guy who started his post send me pics of the 283 motor mounts you use in your 51 Plymouth ,...
Can you still score exhaust manifolds forna 318 64-66 valiant A body style? I understand it's an ancient thread. But I'm running into this issue's... Thanks
While stationed at Ft. Ben Harris, Indy, IN, one of my buddies had a 53 Chrysler two door hardtop and after driving around with no oil figure to either fix the car up or junk it. I talk him into towing the car over to the Auto Hobby Shop and we would fix it up right. We pulled the Hemi out and sold it to another soldier (it was toast) and went to the junk yard and pick up a low mileage 64 Chevy small block and auto. trans. We didn't do anything to the engine, just cleaned it and painted it Chevy engine orange, top off with chrome valve covers and a 4 BBL. We pull the front end off of the car and installed the motor using the old style Hurst saddle mount for the front and a fabricated rear trans. mount. we cleaned and painted the firewall, all components, and inner fenders. Put the car together, gave it a tune up and repainted the entire car Burnt Orange (Chrysler color), along with new tires and chrome reverse wheels and lower it with blocks and heating up the front springs. Thinking back it did not look bad and there was not a lot of early 50's Chrysler being rework at that time. So there we are driving around Indy, two cool dudes, in a cool car. Stop for gas, and the girl (I think my buddy had a thing for her) at the station (gas station and convenience store) look out and said, "hey that is a sharp old Chrysler (remember Indy is a car town), can I take a look at it". Well, she came out and walk around the car looking inside and out and asked, "what do you have for a motor". My buddy just about jump out of his pants, trying to get the hood open to show off his newly painted small block Chevy engine and painted up engine bay. She look down at the engine, for a few minutes, look up and at my buddy and asked, "did this have a Hemi in it at one time", my buddy replied and a big grin, "yes it did, but I replace it with a Chevy". She said, "you should of left the Hemi in it" and she walk back into the store.
Check with http://www.wildcatmopars.com/#! 503-668-7786 ...and now that it has been over 7 years I'd like to see the OP finished project....
Nope its only the tail lights that are boring. Maybe I should ad this new statement to my signature, you are now officially one of the cool guys though. The SBC is a pretty straight forward swap, you can either use a hurst style mount of side mounts, the easiest side mounts are going to be from a Camaro ('60s). Either a cable clutch or a hydraulic is going to be the easiest linkage and unless I was married to them I would consider swing peddles. *Antler manifolds will be considered the most "traditional" but that can be problematic with clearance on the steering side in an early '50s car. It is a must see when the time comes deal. Sometimes the manifolds can be modified for clearance and by the later '60s a lot of us had abandoned them for truck manifolds turned around backward. it is not going to be a common swap so you may have to do some pioneering when it comes to exhaust. On the transmission and bell housing you are probably going to have to cut the firewall and floor and build a hump. *We used to call rams horns, antler manifolds where I was at when I was young.
I'm taking as much pictures as I can, since I'm Working on it by myself. I hate to stop and take a picture, so PLEASE bare with me here. I'm doing all the digging in this site, to read all great ideas and advise from all you Mopar gurus. So forgive me for resurrecting a few old threads... Once I get the car running (not much longer) I'll post all the pictures I have of my project. Thanks again Mopar guru's for the great advise..... And forgive me for resurrecting older threads.
The Jalopy Journal
