1929 chevy full sheet metal kit car

If the doors on coaches are at all the same as the coupes they have different body lines but I think the fitment is the same.

Door on my '29 coupe


Door on my '31 coupe


Hope that will help you..

 

o these look like they would fit a 29 2 door sedan coup http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300278143248
they do look like they would but then again they dont let me know so i can bid

 

They look just like the ones I took off my 29 sedan when I made into a pickup. Be advised, they are the cover for the wood post, so you can make them fit even if there is a minor difference. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1929...ssPageNameZWDVWQQtcZphotoQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

sweet 29nash , thanks for the info also you still got your old ones?

 

i do agree im about starting a web site just for the older style chevy cars, im new to this whole hot rod scene ive but classics but nothing older than a 55 chevy so this is new grounds for me and im amazed how there are so many fords and chevys are so hard to find and when you do find them nobodys got the nerve to cut them into a rod ,eversince i was little i was always tought "a car isnt your till you make it yours"

 

well heres some more photos of the progress ive been sneaking away to go work on my new toy but within 2 hours i went from the popcorn welds to cutting the roof pannel off ,to installing the 1/4 pannels and then the roof pannel but now i need some measurments so i can square the roof and cab sides since there just kinda floppin around i need the measurnent front the inside of the side rear glass to inside of side rear glass, then i need the measurments from the canopy top sheetmetal to sheetmetal, and last i need the measurment for the outside or the 1/4 pannels at the corner of the door to get the correct lower cab size then i can get the rockers in and the cowl installed

 

That's a good start, it's kinda standing up by itself!
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I like the panel sedan man... You do good work.. I would consider a little more of a chop (sorry if its already been talked about) .. Thanks for the pictures man, i dig it

 

I didn't make that clear, I used them when I put the prototype together.

Here it is with chassis complete/ body work incomplete when I was playing with the stance.
The end result was diff than this butt ugly picture. I ended up channeling the body 2 inches, made the door-holes a bit smaller, shortened the cab(front to back), lowered the radiator mount, then raised the bed and rear fenders a bit.
I drove it like that without doors for several months. Modifying the doors to fit the holes and suiciding them took a while. I got carried away with some non-trad mods, AC and the like. But next year I'm going back and undo some of that, take off the front disc brakes, put in bomber seats, etc, and make it more traditional. The tall and skinny wood spoke wheels will stay, but will replace the rear 500x20 tires with 650s which will require some fender modification.
.

 

One other thing, does anyone have the door handle tool to fix the round plate to the body I could borrow? Thanks

 

i have some parts off my car that im not sure as of what there purpose is iv attached photos any body got any ideas

 

Hello,
The first pic is the top of the cab above the windshield and visor. The cut outs are where the visor screwed in from the bottom, up towards the roof. The second picture is the brake rods that go through the frame for the rear brakes, and the third is the brackets that hold the roof wood to the metal at the front corners of the top. The fourth pic looks like the bottom part of the door jam where the hinge mounts on the driver side. Hope this helps!

 

Are you talking about the tool that you insert into the door ferrul and squeeze and it punches tabs on the inside into the wood?

 

Yes that is it, I'm too cheap to buy one. Thanks

 

looks like mine when I started I dont think the 28 measurements will help keep up the good work looks good...ghost

 

why wouldnt the 28 chevy measurments work ?

 

let me get those for you be right back

 

Ghost 28 I gotta say man I'm really lovin that back door on that sedan. It looks really good man!!

 

ok rear of glass bottom 51 7/8 inches. front of glass bottom 52 1/4 inches. rear of glass top of car 52 1/2. front of glass top of car 53 inches. thats side to side of both rear windows inside lip not counting nail area for wood on top of window frame. canopy top rear 41 inches. canopy top front at door closure 40 5/8 inches. these measurements start at the rocker panel door closure area 47 inches. door striker 53 3/4 inches. top at door closure 54 inches. these are all at the outside sheetmetal area of the body. when I say front of glass I mean front of car...ghost

 

thanks ghost you da man gona do a full day on her sunday might get the cowel put on, what are mt options for a front axel using stock springs etc

 

I understand if your using the stock springs and front axle. might want to get nash to jump in on it i am not going with the stock set up gonna use a 32 ford cross member and a 4 inch dropped axle, hair pins, vega box. the stock springs on a chevy cause a lot of clutter. unless your building a gasser hmm...ghost

 

Hey 31ratcoach;
If you choose to go with something else, as in single buggyspring, those original front suspension components sell very well on ebay. I didn't do that because it would have looked like a ford. People recognize the parallel leafs as chivvy. Of course the two springs on front increase the gross weight by about 30 pounds, in theory, but when you add the hardware to support/stabalize the buggy spring setup, the end result is much less of a difference.

Go Chivvy!

If you choose to use the stock setup There may be worn places and they all need to be snugged up with new bushings, rod ends, etc. At least one of the front springs will need to be re-arched to match the other one, they don't loose tension at the same rate!

The following will need to be looked at and repaired if necessary, otherwise sway and steering slop will be magnified; front spring eye bushings/shackles. tie rod ends. drag link sockets. king pins/bushings. rear spring eye bushings/shackles. The original motor/tranny setup was pretty heavy so in my case, the 250 motor weighs less than the original.
Rather than writing a book, if you have any specific questions, sound off.

 

Hey ratcoach.. I thought I would send a picture of the brace I built to stablize the rear body section. it also serves as a base for the rear seat pan. but with your channeling you could use it after for part of you floor support. the measurements are 20 inches deep and. 46 inches wide. I used 1 1/2 inch angle. it kept the rear body square while putting it together...ghost

 

swet thanks

 

Well, I've removed the front window channel from the glass on my 31 in anticipation of using the roll-up front window, 1 problem, the drivers side is rusted beyond use. Before I try to make one does anyone have the driver side vertical windshield channel they will sell, if you are doing a glue in. Thanks for your help. Ghost I have to agree with the Guitar Man that back door is Tits.

 

benn thinking about some exhaust ideas and i wanna runn open headers but i also have ass hole cops in this town im in that know me and my cars when i was 16 i used to get stoped in my 71 chevy truck cause i had headers and chery bombs they tryed to get me for noise violations they was and always have harrased me about my rides its been like that for 10 years im 26 now, but any way i love the sound of side pipes but i cant find any photos of 2 door sedans with side pipes for some reason ,what do you guys think it would look like im looking at a set of a 67 stingray that had the aluminum casing with the heat fins

 

Well I dont think you are running hood sides, or fenders. I think some lake style headers with removable caps. then run the exhaust off the bottom of the collector under the car. with some dual or tripple chamber flow master mufflers. then you can be noisy when you need to and still look cool. pull up summit industries look up lake headers. tell me what you think. not sure about the corvette might be a bit too much for a hot rod you know too much glitter...ghost

 

Ryan's blog for the Silva Speed Special sedan. Specifically part 3 when the car is complete.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/?p=2291

 

Yea I agree. that sedan has set the bar. and the pipes are correct and cool...ghost

 

i just got home from working on the coupe and man it was some rough work doing it solo i put in flat pannels in were the door jambs are on the 1/4 pannel side cuz i didnt have any in my car other than the driver side so i fabed up a se outta 3/16" plate figure that would be better than stock since im doing suicide doors ,so then i started squaring up all the cab starting at were my floor is i decided on doing a 5" channel i think that would be enough for what i have planned but it took me 2 hrs just to get the lower cross bar in place squared and set and to my amazment after 3 trys i got the cab 99.8% square im off by a 1/32" oh well it wont be noticed so now im gona start the process of building the rear body framing and then get my door gaps set and atach the cowel that i might do after work tomaro who know but i will have photos up tomaro of the progress