Definitive S-10 Frame Swap Vehicle List

Now your talkin.

 

Cut the bed floor out and make it shallower.

Put a cover on the bed, as long as I got room for a beer cooler and a couple chairs, Im tickled shitless.[/quote]

 

I got my front wheels mounted tonight. They're 20x8's with adapters from http://www.wheeladapter.com/. He is 72 years old and super cool old drag racer.

 

Love the pics boys! They certainly help keep me motivated with my build by seeing all your progress pics. Keep them coming!

 

Here's are some pic's of the radiator/ steering box clearance issues when using a S10 chassis on a 40 ford pickup. I know a lot of other vintage pickup build's face the same problem. The styrofoam mockup radiator measure's 16" X 24", Vern Jr. @ Walker say's this will cool my warmed over small block easily. Im using a Flaming River vega box, which is small in comparison to the smaller than power, manual S10 box, which by the way only came on 4 cyl. S10's and is pretty damn hard to find. Im using a stock vega pitman arm, which work's perfectly with the geometry of the S10 suspension, you have to turn the pitman arm 180 degree's as the vega box is rear steer, anyway this might help someone on this thread facing the same problem's, I still think this is a good fit for these old truck's.




Bottom pic is a manual S10 box, although quite a bit smaller than the power box, still quite a bit larger than the Faming River vega box.

Later,
Billy

 

Wow! This is the kind of detailed information folks out there are needing guys! Keep it up!

Nice radiator, Billy... that's a pretty kick-ass idea!

~Jason

 

Why not a custom made Aluminium radiator??

 

Hey man, everybody's not a millionaire.

~Jason

 

Look into radiators from a 64-66 V8 Mustang. They are cheap and available evrywhere.

 

bigtumyum,
That was the original plan, but this past Aug. at the nat's in Louisville, I won a Z-AC radiator from Walker, their going to build me a custom radiator to my spec's, and by the way did I mention, (IT'S FREE), probably still going to cost me cause I wasen't goin run air in this truck. oh well, probably be glad in the long run.

 

why not a 70s ford f100 pickup/ bronco frame if you want a 4x4, you get disk brakes, they came with 4speeds or c6 trans with np205 transfercases danna 44s up front and 9inchs out back with a wide viraiaty or motors anything from a 302 up to a 460, to top it all of its still a ford.

 

it would be super if someone can tell me the dimensions of a radiator what would fit... so i can go to a junkyard and ask them for sompthing in that size maybe from a european car like example a ford sierra



or a peugeot 309

 

At first I thought, "A Sierra? Now THAT'S funny!" FYI folks, these were sold here in the US as the Merkur. Then, I wonder if you find a radiator out of one with a 2.9, like a Cologne, or a 2.9 Cosworth out of a Scorpio... that's closer still.

According to: http://search.getitnext.com/beta/3-...220315582862&fp=100.0&search=2&q=ford+mustang

The Mustang radiator dimensions are: 16 1/2" high x 17 1/4" wide (3 row core)



And the Peugot 309? No way man... not unless you used like 2 or three of them!

The trick is to find a radiator from a car with a SUBSTANTIAL 6-cylinder car (straight or V) or truck, or a V8 with the water inlet and outlet being on the right side for your motor... but therein lies the rub, my friend.

Not sure on shipping, but I know early Mustang radiators are $150 - $200 or so here.

~Jason

 

The Mustang radiator dimensions are: 6 1/2" high x 17 1/4" wide (3 row core)

mayby? Look in the previus post

 

LOL! Good one, man!

~Jason

 

Thanx Kimmen73!! and this works faster then look for my self
also im just awake and did not even drink my first cup of coffee LOL

 

No problem,

 

i realy like this design but i dont believe i like the price..






http://www.rondavisradiators.com 65-70-Mustang-Radiator

 

im just looking for fun what it cost on alibaba.com almost the same only cost there around 90-120usd http://www.alibaba.com/trade/search...=&srchYearMonth=&IndexArea=product_en&CatId=0

 

ehmmmm i just drink my cup of coffe and i think you guys make a small failure its not 6 1/2" high x 17 1/4" wide (3 row core)

but

16 1/2" high x 17 1/4" wide (3 row core)

 

I'm glad to hear Walkers says that size radiator will cool a warmed over small block, that's what I'm running in my '40 pickup. I'm using a 16 X 26 'universal' aluminum radiator from Speedway - they're manufactured by Northern. I tried the larger 27 X 19 but no dice - it hit the hood and the steering box. I'm also using the stock S10 power steering box - it's very tight but it fits. I initialley tried cheating the box back about 1 3/4 but I didn't really gain any clearance.

 

Yeah, but many times those guys want your minimum order to be 100 units. There's a way around it if you pose as a large business, and order a "sample" after leading them on to believe you're interested in importing some... but these guys do not usually sell onseie-twosie. I'm not big enough to play in their court.

~Jason

 

Jason you read my mind im already talking to one...
and i was for 5year a dirtbike/motorbike importer so i know my way in yongkang and wuyi city.. still have contacts there..



the company tell me the radiator costs around 120$ (custom made)

 

One of they boys has a 47 ford humpback on an s 10. It was like that when he inherited it, but it runss and drives well.

 

Hey man, get him on the HAMB and have 'em post us some pics!

~Jason

 

LOL! Great minds think alike!

With me, it was parts for Macs and iPods, and other things Macintosh.

~Jason

 

Hey, I was thinking about this one! This is great info. I love how he handled the motor mount thing! I went by a booklet I got from that jagsthatrun site. That is great for putting a V8 in an S-10 that's still an S-10, but for me putting my '47 ford truck cab on the S-10, I needed to shove the motor back towards the firewall. I did it with the jagsthatrun mounts but with a LOT of modifying, and it still could have gone back another couple of inches except that the mounts wouldn't do it. The plate bit these guys used was great. Wish I'd read that (and all of these posts before I did mine, (two years ago). I'll put on some pics in the near future. Another thing I value is the info about cutting out that bow-legged section of the frame just behind the front wheels. Whew, you should see what I went through, and that without it being a cure-all. Great thread. Keep at it. Perley

 

Thank you, Sir!

~Jason

 

Some pictures of us working at putting a '47 Ford truck cab on a '89 S-10 chassis. We bought a truck for 55 bucks, got it bad! Motor burned oil, frame was RUSTYYYY. BAD. We stripped it right down (after lots of work and lots of cursing) and scraped, sanded, ground, nearly all of the rust off, then gave it a coat of POR-15, then oversprayed with Rust-O-Leum Hammered Black Paint. Then got new suspension and steering parts from LMC truck. Put all new parts in and put the front end back together. We did the motor mount swap while the A arms were off. New hubs, new pads, everything. New S.S. brake lines. Got a Camaro rear end to put in it bye-and-bye. Got a '90 Chevy 350 sitting in it with a 700R4 from my old work van. Using the S-10 column and pedals and brake booster/master cylinder. I had the devil's own time with that frame 'kick out' at the front. Finally made cardboard pattern that would work and cut both sides out, swapped side to side, welded them back in. Put scab plates in, boxing plates on. But still sticks out under the front of the cowl. The fenders would cover this, but it bothers the heck out of me. I have found lots of good info on this thread. I may attack it again and do it right/better. May just fab a new rear from clip rearward with square tube. Here ya go. Perley

 

Another batch of pics of our '47 build