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FE in a 1956 ford car

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by sacminiwheels, Dec 8, 2008.

  1. sacminiwheels
    Joined: Jan 31, 2008
    Posts: 114

    sacminiwheels

    Just dropped a 390 fe in my 56 tonight! Juiced! Wondering on mounts.... 58 ford car fe mounts maybe? heard you can flip y block mounts also, not real clear on that tho. I did the 1992 ford aerostar front springs and they dropped right in lowering the car about 3 ".
    http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/revsestor/DSC04351.jpg
     
  2. bobblehead
    Joined: Dec 6, 2006
    Posts: 365

    bobblehead
    Member

    If you decide to buy aftermarket mounts, keep these guys in mind...
    http://www.critesrestoration.com/galaxie.htm


     
  3. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    Better overhaul your front end, and change shocks regularly. '56 Ford front ends are notorious for developing "death wobble" with very little wear apparent! The extra weight of an FE is only gonna make it worse. We had a few that'd shed the hubcaps before you could get stopped!
     
  4. BillBallingerSr
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 651

    BillBallingerSr
    Member
    from In Hell

    The FE is about the same weight as a Y block, and with an aluminum intake is lighter. That was a coomon swap for years. The old man wouldn't let me swap one in, but we had a killer Y block too. +1 on the suspension though, you have to make sure its all tight.

    Now a 430 MEL, whew. That will fold some things up. I'd put it with a Navistar diesel for weight. :)
     
  5. Choppa
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 35

    Choppa
    Member

    Had a few '55/56 Fords in the 60's/70's with FE's transplanted in them, 352's, 390's, 427:D... never had a problem wih the front ends! I used to use Y-block engine mounts, as they fit the early blocks, I only had to massage the firewall to clear the left head.
     
  6. I used the Y block mounts and just turned them around to get the engine back as far as it would go. I rebuilt the front end and used Granada spindles and disc brakes. I also adapted a late 80s mid-size GM sway bar up front and it handles pretty damn decent.
    You must change the rear if you are going to "stand on it" at all as the crappy original little U-joints will not hold up. I used a nine inch, but an eight inch from an early Mustang would be sufficient for moderate screwing around purposes.
     

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  7. Just to clear up the terminology. On a different post about this same subject I did say Flip the Mounts. More correctly I probably should have said Rotate, meaning what was facing Front would be facing the Rear once bolted back in place. You don't need no stinkin adapter kit to mount the Motor to the Stock frame mounts.
    What Choppa said about the Firewall, I don't remember needing to be done. Might have something to do with "I don't remember everything" anymore.
    The Wizzard
     
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  8. sacminiwheels
    Joined: Jan 31, 2008
    Posts: 114

    sacminiwheels

    thank you everyone!
     
  9. sacminiwheels
    Joined: Jan 31, 2008
    Posts: 114

    sacminiwheels

    are the 1956 straight six mounts the same as y block mounts?
     
  10. I believe they were.
     
  11. dragass
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 307

    dragass
    Member

    I'm doing the same swap on my 55 Fairlane and the only problem I see with flipping motor mounts is the location of the clutch equalizer bar bracket to the motor mount. That's the bracket which bolts to the back of the block. Maintaining the bracket socket to motor mount studs distance is what i'm concerned with. I realize that being a ball and socket, some misalignment would be ok. Has anyone done an FE with a clutch setup?
     
  12. Your right on there. The Bell Crank needs to be 90 degrees to the Centerline of Chassis. You may need to find a latter block mount or make a spacer. I've not had anything to do with that on a 55/56 myself. I'm in the middle of an FE-4 speed in a 57 right now and can tell there are several different Bellhousings and they all will bolt things together. Where you get into trouble is the location of the Clutch fork coming out the Housing. I had to use a 58/59 FE only so that the Rod from the Bell Crank ran parraell to get correct throw and leverage.
    The Wizzard
     
  13. FalconEddie1964
    Joined: Apr 15, 2006
    Posts: 367

    FalconEddie1964
    Member

    Yeah, But it was over 40 years ago. Turned the motor mounts around, added a tab to the mount on the block for the equalizier bar and that was about it. Never had any front end problems and only modified the one part on the clutch linkage. The thing ran great with 4.5 gears in a 57 housing. Was a lot of fun and pretty quick in it's day.
     
  14. My FE has a clutch and I didn't have any real problems with the linkage, including the equalizer bar. However, I did play around some with the throw-out fork. I had a few different ones to try and found one that worked well.
     
  15. That is my favorite swap all the 55 56 fords i had back in the day got 352,s or 390,s.All of the previous info is correct. The exhaust manifold clearance is tight. I would trim a little from the part where the upper a arm bolts on to gain some clearance. Hedders would be a great addition .Dont think anyone makes them though. I had a 352 interceptor from a 59 police car with a four speed and a 58 station wagon 9 inch rear housing. Used a pumpkin from a ford Pk with 411. Was in a 56 vicky hardtop Never saw a Y block that i couldnt easily blow away:D. Gave plenty of chevy,s a run for the money also. I still have those discarded Y block boat anchors 40 years later . Would make somebody a good deal on them! OLdWolf
     
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  16. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    HRM did a short tech on this swap circa 1962...406, I think...someone here surely has it! As above, rotate...I think they ran their clutch shaft crooked!
     
  17. daves30
    Joined: Mar 7, 2007
    Posts: 218

    daves30
    Member

    This is great info I'm getting ready to do this to my '55. My question was on clutch linkage, because doesn't it bolt to the block on the Y block?
    Thanks DAve
     
  18. dragass
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 307

    dragass
    Member

    The clutch mechanism does indeed bolt on the back of the block.
     
  19. daves30
    Joined: Mar 7, 2007
    Posts: 218

    daves30
    Member

    So where do you bolt it to with the 390? Just trying to get my shit together so I know what i'm faced with.
     
  20. Royalshifter
    Joined: May 29, 2005
    Posts: 15,625

    Royalshifter
    Moderator
    from California

    Great thread guys....my 56 Mercury is crying for an FE and C6.
     
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  21. Bolts to the block like it does on a Y-block. Just uses a different bracket to fit the FE.

    (WRONG! see the posts below!)
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2008
  22. daves30
    Joined: Mar 7, 2007
    Posts: 218

    daves30
    Member

    Sweet I'll have to keep my eyes open for one.
    Thanks Dave
     
  23. dragass
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 307

    dragass
    Member

    Now I haven't completed this swap just yet but I know the bracket that came off my Y block is a direct bolt on the FE. The Y block and FE have the same bolt spacing at the same general location on the back of the block.
     
  24. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    The 56 6cyl bracket bolts up to the FE but I believe it will have to be bent some to align properly. It doesn't appear to be square with the center line of the crank. I need to get the engine in for final adjustment. The Crites headers for the 56 are NOT supposed to be compatible with a clutch.:mad:
     
  25. dragass
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 307

    dragass
    Member

    Some pictures should be helpful on this thread.

    Y block with original motor mount and clutch bracket.
    10 1/2" from bracket socket center to mount stud.
    [​IMG]
    FE with Y block clutch bracket and motor mount in the same direction.
    10" from bracket socket center to mount stud.
    [​IMG]
    Now I discovered a problem when I flipped the mount. It makes contact with the exaust manifold I'm using. I can't even bolt up the mount in this direction. 8" from bracket socket center to mount stud.
    [​IMG]
     
  26. In my 57 with the FE/4 speed, the mount is Rubber forward like your First Photo. It would seem most correct to use it in that direction to keep measuerment between clutch bracket and mount nearly the same as stock Y Block.
    The Wizzard
     
  27. Kustoms Illustrated
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 319

    Kustoms Illustrated
    Member
    from West

    Good idea to grind some of the upper A-arm area as Old Wolf mentioned. The torque of the motor will make it hit the edges if you don't.
    Flip (rotate) mounts and your done.
     
  28. dragass
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 307

    dragass
    Member

    I totally agree with you PIST-N-BROKE. That mesurement in my opinion is crucial. From the Y block to the FE there's 1/2" difference which I think should be acceptable.
     
  29. bobwop
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 6,127

    bobwop
    Member
    from Arley, AL

    use a 58/59 exhaust manifold from a 352 and you will be in business. We did this swap into a 58 300. four speed, too. Pain in the Ass. Wasn't a project we enjoyed.

    And to think this whole project started around a set of FE fenderwell headers...that we couldn't use in the end!
     
  30. Headers, What a Pain! I just built these for my 57 Project. NO!! I will not build you a pair.
    The Wizzard
     

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