After looking non stop for another 223 ford 6 to replace the screwed up 6 in my 58 ford pickup I finally received one this evening. The fellow hamber said that It ran great in his 60 pick up until he was rear ended and totalled the truck. The motor is fairly dirty on the outside and kind of sludged up under the calve cover. Just wondering what you guys would recomend me doing. Obviously changing the oil,oil filter,points,cap,rotor, wires etc.. What weight of oil should I run on this old og motor? straight weight perhaps 30 weight? This is my daily driver and had to get something in the cheap range to get it back on the road until I can save up the cash for a motor swap (small block ford ).
hey, I'd suggest you add a quart of atf to the oil filler cap, and run the engine for a 1/2 hour or so at idle. Drain the oil and change the filter. Plan on another oil and filter change soon, like 500 miles or so. I've always just run 30 weight non detergent. 40 weight wouldn't be a bad idea if the engines' tired. These arn't fire breather motors, but the 223 with the T98 in my '54 F100 will pull a house around the block! Swankey Devils C.C. "Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"
Non- detergent is only called for for use in something that has not run in 50 years. Even cheap oil has been detergent since the 60s.
I had a 223 in my 60 1/2 ton and I ran Delo 30 weight with a quart of Lucas oil stabalizer. Did wonderful things.
so you guys are saying I should just run 30 weight and for the last quart use on lucas oil stabilizer?
pimpin paint is right on with the ATF. When I bought my '60 it had the 223 still in it, but had been run very little. I did almost to a "T" what he recommends for two quick oil changes, then proceeded to put 10k miles on it trouble free... SAE 30 is the way to go, IMO. Maybe SAE 40 in the summer.
I bought a 62 f100 for a daily driver a while ago, but it only lasted 2 weeks. check this on your exhaust manifold: the shaft for the heat riser valve often siezes in these motors. Since they seize after the motor has been sitting, it seizes in the closed position. This blocks off the exhaust just before the flange and causes the head and engine to get hot! Ford tried to make these fail proof, and if the spring failed, gravity would cause the flap to fail open so you don't fry your motor. That only works when the shaft isn't siezed. I punched out the shaft and removed the flap, then drilled and tapped the two holes for 1/4 NPT plugs. Could save your engine. Shane
Hey, Do not drill, tap or even look crosseyed at the exhaust manifold of a 223. They are prone to crack if not properly bolted down or fucked with! Just check to see that you have good exhaust flow comming from the tail pipe while the engine is running. Swankey Devils C.C. "Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"
Thanks pimpin paint, I feel better now haha. For sure Im going to go get a wire brush and some degreaser and clean up this thing. Get some 30 weight oild and one quart of lucal oil stabilizer and hope for the best.
Pull the pan and clean the oil pump pick up tube screen, that junk gets clogged up in it and all the atf in the world won't get it out.
I have found this thread real interesting as well as I have the original 223 in my F100. I will be trying the ATF solution. Whilst on the subject of the 223, has anyone had any experience with the adaptor plates that allow you to fit a bigger carb on the standard manifold?
hey andyman I would just go with clifford performance and get a new intake. Thats what Im thinking of doing.
Ages ago I did the same type of cleanup,,Only I used 2 Qt. of kerosine,(instead of ATF ), ran aprox 15 min. then drained. Added new oil and 1 qt Kero. same filter,,ran another 15 minutes,,Changed oil filter ect. Pulled valve cover cleaned and checke all drain holes for cloges ..Ran 500 miles or so then changed all again...
Clifford also makes a nice split header so you can run dual exhuast. That would take care of the crappy stock exhaust manifold problem. Not to beat a dead horse, but here's pictures of my cracked exhaust manifold. The crack runs along the location where the flap seals. If running the stock manifold, make sure your shaft rotates and that the spring is in place. Another problem they can have is that the tack weld breaks on the flap and it no longer moves with the shaft. These suck! There's another photo of my replacement exhaust manifold with the flap/shaft removed and plugged. As soon as i can afford to, i'm going with the clifford header. I also have an edmunds dual carb intake for it. Shane
I have a 215 cu in in my 52 F-1, It was the first OHV engine Ford made, do you know if it will use the same intake/ exhaust as the 223? I have heard it will but know one can confirm it for 100%. I found a 2 carb intake and want to do something with the exhaust when I put the intake on. I see Clifford split manifold talked about. So that is an option.
hey MN stump jumper, I know you dont want to hear this because everyone else has has pretty much the same answer but Im pretty sure the exhause manifold will fit the 215
Since the 215 and 223 are in the same family, the intake and exhaust manifolds should work on either, but verify it with clifford before buying. I don't know what all the differences are between the two. One place to check is the "vintage ford inline sixes" section of the ford six performance forum: http://fordsix.com/forum/ One thing to look out for is intake port sizes. My later ('61) head has larger ports than my early Edmunds intake. The intake will need some porting to match. Intake port on my head is about 1 5/8, and the edmunds is just under 1 7/16. I don't know about the clifford intakes, but the early fenton aluminum intakes have the heat riser portion that bolts to the exhaust manifold. Fentons split exhaust manifold also has the heat riser, but without the crappy flap. The edmunds intake uses water for pre heating instead of exhaust gas. If your going to go with a new intake, the offy looks more traditional than the clifford imho. Patriot headers are also available at almost half the price of cliffords, but they don't come in "shorty" style.
i just put a patriot header on my 223 in my 58 f-100 it fit pretty good and it was only a 160$ and its split the part number is h8425
If anyone on the east coast can use a good running 56 223...come and get it. I hate to throw it away. Freebee's are goodbee's
Thanks for the info, The intake I have is an original Edelbrock and it has the "hot spot " but I'm not too concerned about using that . The headers look O.K. but I think I like the cast split manifold better. We'll see .
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