1929 chevy full sheet metal kit car

That looks like it is going to be a great looking "delivery". Willyou use a stock grill and will it have fenders?

 

Kinda going on a limb here....but anyone not using there stock 31-32 frame and have it just taking up space in the garage?

 

I don't know how complete your body is, But as for splitting the cowl and firewall that would be a lot of work. If your going to modify the frame. I would pinch the frame in the front as part of the build of the frame. The leg room or foot room will depend on the channel and how high or low you set the motor. plus pinched rails look cool. the black frame with the suspension parts spread around has been pinched in the front...ghost

 

Yea... when I got all the parts, everything was there so i'll use it all. grille included thanks ...ghost

 

Consider this; When I channeled my Nash the body dropped down past the frame by only moving it forward about 2 inches. Since I was removing all crossmembers for redoing the radiator/motor mounts it didn't matter. To assure I could use the hood, I solved that by moving the radiator mount flanges forward a like amount. The parallel springs stuck out there a mile anyhow, now only 2 inches shorter.

Now, the only thing that it does(using the original steering setup including wheel/column) is from the inside, sitting in the driver's seat, the dash is forward 2 inches. Speedometer/gauges, etc are 2 inches farther away, no big deal, actually if I did'nt know it I probably couldn't feel it, and I have lots of room for my feet, floorboards are located where they are comfortable, not even considering their prior location.


Of couse, I knew I wasn't going to mount front fenders.....................
.

 

hey 29nash, i am also not running fenders so that wouldn't be an issue. not to concerned about the hood, if i decide to run one it would only be the top so i would make a new one since i'm not using the stock grill anyway. once i get to measuring i'll give moving the body forward a look. thanks for the idea. mike

 

caphockey sliding the body forward the way nash describes it. Is a good idea just don't know if it will work on your 28. If you look at the outside of the cowl in relation to where it sits on the body, It's about 3/4 inboard to the outside of the frame on both sides, And the frame tapers in towards the front of the car very gradually. So to slide the body forward on the 28 you would have to slide it a foot or more by my measurements. and trim the lower inside cowl area down to get it to drop. i'll send a pic of where my body sits on the frame hope this helps...ghost

 

What 'ghost says; The Nash cowl width/frame taper isn't a model for the Chivvy, but the only way to tell is measure it. Just offering a thought...........

 

hey ghost, i see your point without even having a chance to measure. may still decide to split and widen the cowl or could even step up the bottom sides of the cowl kinda like the jimmy shine 34 p.u. which would let me channel over the frame without widening. prefer to have to many options than none. thanks for all the insight, wish you were closer i'd love to come see your car. mike

 

Hey 31'coach, new listing today on ebay.
Even if the price got out of hand you might consider buying them, cloning them, and reselling them back on ebay, I think it would be a good investment. Even make a few for future sales! You already know that they are merely facads, to cover the wood pillar, right?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/chev...ssPageNameZWDVWQQtcZphotoQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

already found them this morning and asked if hed put a buyit now price on them mabie he will mabie he wont who knows if i bid hopefuly the dot get stupid on the price this time ,and i also was thinking about making some repduction parts outta steel in stead of cast aluminum they would be an easy fab once i have a base template

 

Finished the transmission cross member, probably not as strong as the engine mounts, but dont think it needs to be. Made it so it will bolt through the frame, and drop out if I need to service the trans, or take the car apart. now to finish the x member, cross member for the front suspension, start on the brake pedal and master cylinder mount under the floor board. And the sub floor supports up front. Also what are you guys gonna use for steering columns and steering wheels in yours. I'm thinking of using the stock column and wheel just replace whats left of the wood with a new metal ring and one of those after market turn signal switches that bolt on to the column that way I can leave it on after I change lanes...ghost

 

looking god ghost ,quick thought is the coach frame narower than the standard 2 door sedan like yours

 

I dont think they had a sedan classification in the 20's chevrolet. Mine was a coach also, so i dont think there was a difference in the frames they were all 107 inch wheelbase including the coupes, and 4 doors. I think until 31 or 32 then they went to 109 inch wheelbase. As for narrower nah the only frame that was narrower, was the 33 model year 3 window coupe that started out as a cheap doctors coupe and believe it or not was called the chevrolet standard mercury, before ford or lincoln had the name. The mercury was quite a bit narrower than the master 3 window coupe of the same year. so if you find a grille, hood, or body. that does'nt quite fit your 33 build if you had one. Chances are you have a rare mercury and they are still out there. New they sold for a sum of $475.00 I WOULD LIKE TO FIND ONE...ghost

 

That's always been a misnomer. (according to the Chevy designations)
Chevrolet didn't call it a 2 door sedan, they called it a Coach. I guess all Chevy peple automatically knew if it was a Coach it had 2 doors. or if you didn't know you looked in their picture book! Same with the 4 door. It was called a sedan. All sedans had 4 doors. Its just the way they designated them. Therefore with a Landeau Sedan one would have to assume it had 4 doors. They were consistant in that they didn't use the number of doors in any of their designations. Inconsistent was that the Imperial Landeau had 4 doors,(absent the sedan designation). Touring had 4 doors. The Landeau Sedan had 4 doors. Coupe, Cabrolet, Roadster, all had two doors.

 

Thanks nash thats good to know that there was a sedan designation. In my research of the frames. The coach, coupes, and sedans. Were all 107 inches until the early thirtys. am I correct in this? I know that I bought a 31 4 door sedan frame that was the same size as my 32 5 window coupe at 109 inches. also what about my steering column question? ghost

 

I used the original steering colum tube with new bushing at the top(filling station) and turn switch like you meantion.

On the business end I cut the tube and shaft and machined the end to fit in a DD aftermarket U-joint. Another DD shaft goes down to the Saturn slip/u-joing on the 02 Satrun RP. Fit a generic caged ball bearing that fit ID of the Tube and OD of the shaft, built a support down to the frame. The clamp that holds the end of the tube to the original steering box snugged right over bearing outer case to hold it to the tube! Stock wheel with new wood, new horn button and cushion(filling station) Note the spokes for the steering wheel are too long, the wood I got was smaller than the original 17+ inch wheel, had to cut them off a bit.
Gary Wallace sells the new rubber spoke covers. I took the picture before I put in the turn signal switch. I can get a couple of pictures if you want.

 

Yea Awhile back I got a deal on borgeson joints, these along with new bearings and machining. Is what I thought. I just like the old column and am willing to go the extra mile to use it thanks for your help...ghost

 

my dash is gonna be quite a bit different, i'm gonna be using the gauge cluster out of a 50's ford, and mount in a headlight bucket, with probably almost no dash. the instruments will be mounted off the floor not the dash, i'm thinkin about doin cowl steering, maybe the chain drive one i saw a few weeks ago. but more than likely cowl. i have a reversed corvair box from speedway.

 

Well guys I got most all of the floor board support, and frame x member done. Along with the brake pedal booster, and master cylinder installed today. Not gonna need much of a trans tunnel. So I should have lots of leg and foot room for those long trips, when you need to stretch out and move around while driving. And with my knees I need it. hell it's getting hard enough just to work on them. But it's a labor of love that I am not ready to give up, besides it's better than watching t.v. (Have a look and let us know how your projects went this weekend)...ghost

 

If you haven't already thought about it. Save those knees by NOT filling in the floor panels until everything else inside is done. You can stand on the floor of the garage better than you can stand on your knees(ouch) on the floorboards! Even up to mounting seat and driving it around the block, do the floorboards last. I'm eagerly waiting to see what you do on the steering, either way you go.

No new pictures of my Nash, but I did get the windlace in around the perimeter under the tonneau cover, it should keep out the rain now.

 

Yea I agree the floor is not going in until last moment, the roof panel also. that way I can take advantage of ceiling lighting in the garage. had my son-n-law over today helping with climbing around and welding inside the car. (what a good boy) kinda pay back for helping on his yorkster hot rod build. tho I told him he did'nt need to...ghost

 

freakin a i just got me my window post off ebay i won the auction and payed under $150 shipped to my door haha that other dude just spent over $500 to get his set gld i didnt get stupid with that other auction just to beat the other guy tell you paitence will yeild the best results so my plas are to build repo parts off these anybody need a set im gonna start off building them in steel but once i get the set up ill offer them in diecast i so freakin stoked about that auction i cat there and counted down the seconds to win it started off at 99.95 and at about 1 min left it jumoed 5 more bids and got to 132.50 and thats were it ended at i put a max bid of $250 in so i cam out ok so now ill get the rest of my car put together photos to fallow soon

 

ratcoach that is so cool some times if you just wait them out and don't get in a hurry like I said if you bid early you just bid against your self CONGRATS...ghost

 

Ha. That's the way I bid. Do you know what the "sore losers" call us when we do that? We are "Snipers".

He, He. After you've taken a pattern, those "original" ones will auction back and if not at a profit, for a pretty good recoup of your investment!

 

whats up anything new guys this thread is getting cold,i havent done much but spend my ebay fund i sold over $500 in ford parts this week and spent all but $25 i got a chevy heater unit outta a 27 chevy,2 grill shells one witch is stainless,and the two a pillars,a original radiator for a 29,a complete 30 chevy dash board with a heater control switch,a second spare 30 amp/temp gauge didnt realy need it but i done bid on it so i guess i got some spare parts but for spending $475 for everything shipped wasnt to bad of a buy and it was all sponcered by selling ford parts seem fair to me

 

Hey what are you guys using for seats? I wish i could fit a mini van seat in my chevy but im not to sure if i have the room due to camaro t-5 shifter location not sure if it will fit even with a tailshaft swop. May have to use bucket seats.

Any ways saving up money for some disc brakes setup.

 

Hey Rat those grill shells are brass never seen a SS one I think trucks were metal. I have one grill shell and 1 dash left with some old running board aprons and a set of glass front fenders, and a very nice frame. I guess since mine it all but finished I will try to sell the left overs.

 

I used a set of Grand Am front seats early 80's and not much room in between the two but might work for you!

 

forgot to mention a problem i had with some measurments i got the rear of my cab were i want it then i allowed for the doors then i added the depth of the cowl at were it sets at it looks to be a tight fit for a small block let alone a big block ,did anybody modify there frame length or move the radiator to get a little more engine bay area ,i cant move my cab back any further with out loosing to much of the rear skirting over the tank id like to keep that on the car it kinda makes the car stand out from a vicky or any other 2 door sedan ,andy ideas also i gonna have to go with small block for now just to get it drivabe by spring im looking a going low with the drive train so i dont have to build a godawful tranny tunnel in my floor do they make a lowprofile oil pan for a chevy and how deep is it the loest i have found is a 4qt 7.5" deep do they go any shallower