1929 chevy full sheet metal kit car

Hey ratcoach; looks can be deceiving, I suggest you get your motor in there and blocked up where it clears everything. Then sit the cowl on and see. I put a L6 in my 29 Chevy and only had to modify the firewall about an inch, so don't see any problem with a v8. I hung the motor/tranny a little lower, (like your plan) dropped the motor down a bit, tranny doesn't interfere with your original floorboard location(much)

I removed the front crossmember and put a bigger radiator(taller) that fit in the shell otherwise, so the bottom of the rad went down into the area of where the crossmember used to be. Then I added a crossmember ahead of the rad.

 

We were talking about this same thing over the weekend. I have a nice set of buckets that I was thiinking about using. But now I might check out the dodge mini van middle seat. It is real narrow, just have to lower it and put tracks on it for adjustment. But I will be using a lokar shifter, so I wont be having a problem with clearance on mine. What you could do is put a dimple in the front edge of the seat to clear the shifter then recover it could be pricey. But having a bench seat might be worth it. Oh and by the way Im saving up for the whole front suspension, including the brakes. But they did deliver my 32 cross member today so I can put it in...ghost

 

Ratcoach... I didn't modify the frame, or move my radiator. If your not going to use a hood or are prepared to make or lengthen the one you have. You could move the radiator forward. I moved my fire wall back 4 inches in my planning. And good thing I did cause my motor where I have it sitting now. I barely have room for a fan but it is gonna work. My car wont be channeled, and I set my engine. so the oil pan is 3 inches below the frame line at the bottom of the pan. And I have a very small trans tunnel because of it. With yours channeled you can place your engine and trans as low as you want. But keep an eye on the scrub line, so if you loose a tire you wont loose any thing else in the process. you should be able to get by with a stock oil pan...ghost

 

I'm running your typical early 90's Caravan 2 person seat. Fits fine. I did have to modify the seat a bit for the shifter, but if i didn't need a trans adapter where wouldn't have been a problem

 

i was contemplating using the rear seat out of a jeep, so i can fold it forward and possibly have a functional rear seat, might have to look into the caravan seat though, jeep seats are pricey and i like havin the rear seat in mine.

 

well i got some coach time today i got the cowel in place and put my dash in place but since i channeled the body ive lost leg clearence between the bottom of the dash and floor (i knew this would happen i planned for it) but i need some photos of whats behind the dash what the dash bolts to also a photo of the front window frame at the bottom were the window meets the cowel so i can see how much the dash stick up above the actual cowel any help ghost ?

 

The normal mounting for the dash is a wood structure behind it with what looks like small u channel tabs screwed to the wood. These are threaded with 1/4 20 threads. Your dash screws into these through the holes in the front of the dash. Normally the dash sits above the cowl about an inch maybe a little more. I DONT THINK THEY USED TAPE MEASURES BACK THEN. I set mine down so when you look at the door garnish molding and the dash both right and left side of the dash flow into the garnish molding, and still leaves a 1/2 rise on the dash so the windshield riser will still let air behind the dash when raised. even if you dont use the riser it could work for you...ghost

 

ghost you always come through with the photos you totaly rock man, i had the thought of cutting a 1"-1.5" outta the center of my dash kinda chaneling the dash to match the car eliminating the mounting holes then just welding studs in there place on the back side i think it would look clean ,original and functional by giving me leg room and im not gonna use the roll up window so i wouldent need th wory about the vent part ,also had a top idea i was thinking after i got all the body assembled and the car choped putting n a piece of blacked out plexiglass 1/4" thick with a mirroe finish to the outside so id have a big ass sun roof to say but it be a one way mirror what you guys think

 

wow i had like 50 typos in that post thats what i get for typing to fast also if anybody need some suicide axel parts i got a ass load of them springs to hubbs i bought a school buss of freaking old parts thought there might be some chevy stuff in there butt so far its all model a and model t crap i did get a banjo rear end outta the deal and some original tires still wraped in plastic and are originals from the 30's non dryrotted eather guess the plastic saved them , i have some photos on some questionable parts i might need some more help on id'ing them

 

My son-n-law and I were talking about putting lexan in mine, like what your talking about. But with my build not gonna go that direction. You just might set a new style with it. If it is blacked out, and the car is satan black, so it dont stand out might look kinda KOOL...ghost

 

actualy mirrored plexi on gunmetal grey paint would blend nicely and be very different

 

Here's some chassis photos for anyone of you who haven't seen them before. Yes,I need some more updated pics. Unfortunately this project was preHAMB discovery hence the non-traditional bits. Lets keep this Chevy thread going guys.

 

I don't care much if it is hamb friendly or not. quality work is quality work, and it looks like you have some skills. hell my last build was a 32 coupe 5 window chevy of course. that I made a 3 window out of it and put a complete 92 corvette suspension and fuel injected drive train in it. no where close to traditional, but it's what I wanted to build at the time and that sucker could road race or drag race what ever you wanted to do even with the air conditioning on...ghost

 

Yea I think you could get away with that, as long as the plexi blends smooth with the rest of the top. Or put a reveal around it kinda like the canvas top would have. Might be kinda cool...ghost

 

Guys, what are your lans as for windshelds assuing yourmissing the original windshield and windshield regulkator. Will you be siliconing a sheet of glass in or making a frae and ...
All that exists in mineis the bottom u channel that I think the window rubber gasket sat in.

First thing i think of is of welding of 3 sides of a window frame and adding the window and then the top part of the frame which will be removable. Whats did you guy do

 

Since you still have the bottom strip, I would get original shaped seal for the bottom, starting off by having new glass cut to rest on that and fit regular felt window channel around the glass. The windshield glass was supported by the riser mechanism hanging from it. To eliminate the original mechanism, set the glass surrounded by felt channel in from the inside and support it with the side/upright garnish moldings. Across the top use an upholstery coverd board to replace the missing original regulator board to fill in the gap at the top and mount the rear-view mirror to. Inside the window opening near the top there is a tab on each side tapped for 1/4-20 screws that held that board. The board was mounted with straight slot crowned, nickle plated, screws accompanied by round faced upholstery washers.

 

Well I spent all day thursday in the garage. Setting the hood, and grille shell. So I can place the 32 ford crossmember and not interfere with all the sheet metal. Man now I know why so many guys leave the hoods and fenders of these cars. what a bunch of crap to line up. (I forgot I knew that kind of language). But I did get it lined up, and the crossmember looks like it will fit right where it needs to be. Plus I decided to mock up the fender, and running board, on the passenger side. And I like what I see check it out guys. And I agree I would like to keep this thread up. It is a good source of info for all us chevy guys and any body else thanks...ghost

 

He, he, and it looks like a chivvy with the hood and rad shroud! Do you have the side aprons? Bow Tie Reproductions sells new repros.

 

hey ghost can you name these parts they was in my model t colection i have no clue as what they are

 

Nash sounds like youve done this before, do you have any picture to aid me. Try to crawl under the tarp tommoror and snap some pictures. Any one have dimensions of the header board.

 

anybody got a wiper motor shot on a 29 or 30 also need a photo of the pannel above the door and the rocker panel ,also will a 28 set of rockers work on a 29 ?

 

Can get you a shot of the 28 wiper. and the panel above the door on the 28. Not sure if 28 and 29 rockers will interchange. not sure if these helpS. Not gonna use the 28 wiper motor it is vacuum style you pay shipping I'll give it to you...ghost

 

No pictures, except in my head of most of this stuff. My car is all completed, assembled and upholstered. I measured the header board with fabric on it. Also a blurry picture of external header before I put the visor back on. <!-- / message --><!-- attachments -->

 

Hey nash the splash aprons between the running boards, and the lower part of the door rockers, bow tie chevy don't sell for the 28 chevy. 29 and up only. Mine are pretty good except on top where it is flat steel rusted through. So I'll most likely just do a repair. That way I can keep the stamped reveal that is on the originals I like them. What I think ratcaoch is requesting on rockers is the metal that ties the body together and acts as the lower door closure seal at the bottom of the doors...ghost

 

Hey mink... I think your car is a 32 by your album. On my 32 there was a inner reveal lip all the way around so I cut my glass to fit in that reveal. And used black window mast, Is what I think they called it. Kinda like glue for windows, and sealed it in that way. No air, or water leaks in that one. Was pretty clean looking and then I just trimmed the inside with upholstery. The glass was installed from inside the car...ghost

 

Yes, since you dont need them it's a moot point but I think they are same on '29/'28 I'll delete that post since it's redundant. thanks, Walt.

 

Hey Walt... Got the 28 steering column taken apart today. Looks like I will use it. But fought me too just like lining up the front end. I figured (it) the 28 has a few years on me so I'll show it some respect, as long it don't go christine on me we'll get along just fine. I figure with some new brass bushing and a lot of clean up it'll be good for another 80 years. Plus that old column will look better than a fat tilt setup in this old girl. I got a box of brand new borgeson joints along with a vega box for cross steer. It should be o.k. I'll take some pics when I get further along. PLUS DON'T DELETE ANY POSTS SO FAR THEY ALL HAVE VALUABLE INFO ON THEM MAYBE NOT FOR ME OR YOU RIGHT NOW. BUT I DID NOT KNOW ABOUT BOW TIE, BUT NOW I DO THANKS...ghost

 

hey ghost any ideas on what thoes 2 parts are for on a model a or model t

 

Naw mostly just a guess spare tire support, fender support,or some kinda inner support. There not matched, one has a round base, the other square. But both have 4 bolt holes in them. Could'nt tell by the pic if they were cut off or not. Any one else have an idea. HELL YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO USE THEM ON YOUR CAR I USED TO USE OLD SHEET METAL FROM OFFICE FURNITURE ON SOME OF MY BUILDS KINDA LIKE DRIVING A OFFICE DOWN THE ROAD. EVEN USED THE CORNER POSTS OFF A CUBICLE WALL TO MAKE ROCKER PANELS ON MY 32 CHEVY THEY HAD THE RIGHT BEND TO THEM AND BEST OF ALL THEY WERE CHEAP...ghost

 

Any of you fellows have Instant messenger would love to chat.

Nash how thick is the header board??

Ghost where did you pick that car up at, looks to be very straight compared to mine