After all the years looking at my 29,with green body and black fenders,it certainly grew on me,how good it looked. I'm thinking of the original blue with black like this pickup. Picture is from SoCalCarCulture. Here's a few combos for comparison.
This is way cool man. Thanks for sharing it. Did you line up the hinge pins with string? This gives me some very cool ideas for flush trunks on sedans.
You could use string. but I had a 3 foot chunk of 1/2 inch square steel tubing that I clamped the hinges to. So they were one unit, and would not move...ghost
Well forest green with black fenders is winning out on the voting. Over all forest green.I like your idea on the wheel choice. but wonder if I could get them in big and littles. and by the way nice brake set up ya got there...ghost
That's impressive, Ghost! What do you mean when you say: ..."keeping the vice loose until I get the shape to match the rear of the inner body"? Also, would 1 inch square tubing have worked equally well, do you think? Or is it too stiff to bend in a vice like the 3/4 inch? How do you decide where to put the 3/4 inch tubing for side panel structural support? I'm going to have to try this on my 33 Ford Fordor.
If you keep the vise loose you can move the metal through in small amounts. So you get a gradual bend and no kinks, even looser on the vice for tighter bends. I just used my body weight in equal pressure amounts as I moved the metal . the good thing about doing it this way you can reverse the process if you go to far. As for the 1 inch over the 3/4 inch. should work the same. you just have to figure out your pressure and speed that will work. I did a tight bend for the trans tunnel using 1/2 inch square using this same process, and using a tubing bender. The tubing bender*****ed and was more work. The decision on where to place the metal bracing should just fall in place after you get any lower supports or roof supports in place. Just look for points of weakness, and upholstery mounting points you might want to use. And keep in mind, or think 6 steps ahead so you wont put any bracing in the way of any future portions of the build. I think with your ford you wont need as much cause you are starting with more steel in your car from the factory. But a little more structure would not hurt and it will make your car last longer and be more solid. Good luck...ghost
My vote does not count?.........What is this?....Uganda? John I didn't know your last name is Museveni?
No pictures, except that one with the wheel. Lost the rest in a file, lost or deleted. Mazda B2000 Truck, entire brake system, Rear axle, booster/master under floor with mechanism fabbed up to work off the original chivvy pedals. Hydraulic clutch master is off a toyota car. I wanted the thing to look like the '29 spindle came with the disc setup, just for*****s and grins It worked. Guys familiar with the original axle are always asking how I did it. Inside the cab, with the original steering post, original brake and clutch pedals, e-brake handle, etc one would believe the thing is mostly original. Here's a story, without the pictures; Cut the Chevy spindle right where the back-plate mount meets the king-pin yoke. Milled it flat. Cut the Mazda spindle leaving brake caliper business on the axle stub. Milled it flat. Welded the Mazda axle/caliper mount to what remained of the Chevy spindle/king-pin yoke. I don't have a stick welder that heavy duty, so I took it local boiler shop and (supervised?). Don't remember the rod number but it was bigass 1/4" diameter rod, needed about 250 amps to do it. Total outlay for rear axle, all the brake system, less than $300
29nash, Thanks for the info! Do you remember what outer diameter is the rear axle housing on the B2000? We have a 2000 Toyota 4Runner and I noticed the other day that the bolt pattern is a match for early Chevrolet disk wheels, and while the rea end is light and the width is great (almost a match for a T), it's 3 1/4 OD... stock T rears are 2 1/2" OD. Bottom line is that I'd like to find a rear that has a more "spindley" look to it sinc I won't be running fenders.
Great job. Very Creative. I love it. I like the idea of nerf bars. Also very cool, making the back window smaller. I would try black steelies with the body and fenders painted green, and black fenders with the spokes.
Thanks for the explanation, Ghost28. I think I know what you mean now with respect to the vice being loose as you move and work the tubing. Looks like you used 1 inch or larger tubing to frame the rear door. Your Delivery Conversion project is impressive, and makes for a far more desirable rod than a regular 2 door IMHO.
Naw the tubing on the back door area is also 3/4 inch it just looks larger around the window area cause I doubled it up. And yeah as for the sedan delivery aspect. Chevys first year was late in 28, but they used a 29 body style. So using a 28 chevy body means if I do it right I'll have the only 28 delivery, as far as I know. thanks ...ghost
Bad**** Chevy..I like.. If it was mine, I would go that route as well. looking good, can't wait to see the finished result.
Here is a few drawings that a friends son drew from pictures I sent him. He has had no classes or training that I know of. His drawings have a cartoon style to them. And I really like the one with the wording (one off) because of the moon eyes in the Os, and my plate will say the same thing...ghost
Naw... That's his style not mine. I asked him about that, and that is exactly what he told me. My 32 chevy that I built last. I had suicided the doors on it. But these hinges on the 28 were in good shape. So I decided less hoorah, And more old style for this one. get anything done on your projects? GOT ME A NEW TOY, WHAT DO YA THINK?... ghost
My projects? Putting 'letric window risers in Nash Hot Rod.[/quote] You building your own or is it a store bought kit? I've got a brand new set from specialty that I was going to use in the 28 but decided to go manuel crank. Maybe I'll use em in the next one. Good to hear from ya...ghost
Oh god there goes the neighor hood. Yeah I bought two sets of headers neither one is going to work. wanna buy some headers? And got a good deal on some guages, and a old sun super tach. And sold a ton of stuff YOU GETTING THE FRONT OF THAT TRUCK LIFTED YET?????
Ghost, I'll take off your hands a set of 15-8's stock steel wheels for the slicks I found. my T-Thrust D's have a wierd off set and will stick out to much and not look right. I found a 50 Buick steering wheel for 30 bucks, in much better shap then the one in my model-A. I think the roll bar project in the Mokan Morris is first in line, then the axle will get under the 57 pickup. That 64 cleaned up really nice.........wana wash my truck ??? Roach
Yep roll cage in a 10 second car would or should be priority. And as for washing your truck didnt your truck used to be white. When did you buy the black one. AND NO
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