Bangin' in the New Year - The January BANGER meet is now open

I used a set of radius rods off an early model A, they will bolt straight to a '26/'27 T rear end and are a lot beefier. The early A radius rods have stamped ends, not forgings like the later ones, so they can be bent a lot easier and just flip them over since you are dropping it so much.

 

Guys, any thoughts as to what connecting rods these could have been from the 1920s era that were cut and made use of as spring shackle mounts? This is a shot of Johnny Gerber's #15 car and it was retired before the Ford V8 came out, so that's not a possible conn. rod that would have been used.

Thanks guys!!

 

Connecting rods! THAT is a great idea!!

 

Wish I would I wish I could......... look at one page and see all the Model A/B Ford camshaft specs........lift dur and centerline......Winfield and all others.

Seems like it would make selecting a cam a little more fun when bench racing with myself, or deciding what the heck to use for this summers babbit pounder.

 

If you have the dough invest in a new forged Stipe cam! They're great!

 

there are a few cars that used 4 bolt rods, but they were not cheap.

ex...Pope Hartfords

But maybe look for a big truck? or how about 2x2 bolt conrods?

 

Fur-
What you're seeing there is actually 4 connecting rods, two on each side.

 

Oh, that's not two connecting rods side by side with a spacer in the middle and a hole drilled in them? That's what I thought they would have been.

Or you could weld in a solid center between two connecting rods and drill a hole for a bushing.

Oh, CoalTownKid clarified..

 

heres the pic.
One before and one after cleaning them up.
I looked up the number on the tag here
http://www.sucarb.co.uk/ProductSearch.aspx
but I've forgotten what year the Volvo was. I can go look if you really want to know.
I was surprised to measure them at 1 5/8".
I have been running a 1 1/4" SU on my Harley for 30 years and have some 1 3/4" SUs too.
I hadnt heard of 1 5/8s before these

 

Went to Taylor Engine this AM to see the progress on my Riley 4 port head. The cracks have been welded up and the valves and seats have been ground. 1 or maybe 2 rocker arms will have to be replaced and new push rods made. The rocker arm problem was apparently caused by running dry with no provision for oiling and ,not sure how much, a lot of valve spring pressure. The head had dual valve springs. The chambers were CC"D at 50cc. This engine supposedly came out of a sprint car and the way it was set up when my friend purchased it calculates to slightly over 14 to 1. A shade tree mechanic then faced .187 from the tops of the pistons which made it close to 9.3. I'm not against facing material from the top of a piston but think .187 on an unknown piston is pretty daring. This was on babbit rods and mains. I have not tried to degree the cam which has if I remember correctly about .366 lift. It is stamped Winfield but no other marks. I think that is the same lift used on the 1A cam but only guessing. I received 3 intake manifolds with the engine, a dual Stromberg, a dual side draft, and a single for an extremely large single downdraft, or draught for some, I think I spelled that correctly. 2 cylinders will need to be sleeved and a set of pistons with the compression height corrected for compression suitable for a reliable street engine.

 

was this the engine that was breaking the stroked cranks?

 

I have a good friend that has a 1928 Chevrolet truck that he got from his dad 50 years ago when he was 14 years old. The truck didn't run when they got it but his dad brought it home so my friend could work on it in the attempt to keep him and his friends out of trouble. Tony said it took only three days to get the truck running good enough to drive. He and his friends drove around the truck around the block as fast as it would go one quart of fuel at a time (vaccum fuel pump was bad) causing trouble in the neighborhood. The truck was never really repaired and was put into storage.

About 25years ago the truck was sent to a body shop to be restored, the truck was worked on intermittently for about 15 years before the body shop went out of business. The truck is now about 75% done but has been sitting for at least the last 5 years in the coner of his shop covered in boxes.

If I can tempt him with a little eye candy for his truck I believe he will put it back together. Are there any aftermarket intake and exhaust manifolds available for the original 4cyl engine? Nothing that can't be reversed if it needed to be an original someday.

I was thinking the truck would be nice lowered a little with the springs and a set of smaller diameter /wider wire wheels.

 

Just did a wee bit to the 20's sprint car,.... (ok this is it, really it is, I gotta get back to my 29!!!)

Decided to play with some of the rear spring geometry to try and get a better setup and figure out the placements for the shackles, etc.

I'll be fabbing up some brackets to bolt on, but tacked the perch head in place to see where everything rested for now to get a visual on things,...I think I got it where it will work the best for the way in which the springs will ride, flex and so forth. I also flipped the brackets upside down so the springs were mounted lower to get the right clearance for the toque tube so it didn't hit my butt when it rode up!!

 

A while back I spoke to an older guy who has a salvage yard near me full of 30s-60s cars. He said he had a shed full of old motorcycles and nicer cars / parts. He mentioned he had an old original Model T Ford dirt track racer equipped with a RAJO head. The car hasn't been moved in years and is still splattered with mud from the last time it was on the track. I have been slowly trying to position myself to be invited to see his shed of treasures. When I do I will take photos, my friend with the 28 Chevrolet has known this guy for many years and said he seen the car years ago.

 

Buy it, and preserve it! Unless its in bad condition, then you'll have to either restore it, or sell it to me!

...then I'll restore it and let you drive it whenever you want to! Hey its the least I can do!

 

No it isn't. I personally haven't broken any stroked crankshafts although I have broken 1 and severely cracked another counter balanced "A" crank trying to turn the engine at 4.000 plus RPM's. I haven't tried to stress my stroker but I'm planning on driving it or rather having my grandson or possibly my wife drive me to El Mirage in it this spring to cruise the pits and see old friends. First chance I get I will have my grandson spin it up to 4 grand in 2 nd. gear just out of curiosity. I have a SBC vibration dampener on the stroker engine. Stay tuned! I am not afraid! Years ago at one of my first trips to the Antique Nationals I asked why the cars were not going as fast as they should have been with their Winfields, Cragars and Rileys and similar combinations and was told that they did not want to break their engines. My mentor, AK Ferris, told me years ago how during the "30"'s they built their engines for only 1 run and they went "Balls out" on that run. If it blew then rebuild it in time for the next meet.

 

Hey..
just plain bill do you need a 2nd grandson
Bill

 

Bill,
Are you using the dual Winfeilds on this?
What are you using for ignition?

Dan

 

Any 4x4 T-5 adapter update???

 

The final touches to the casting pattern are being done now. I should have good castings by the end of the month. then kits should be availible by the end of February.

 

I assume you are asking about the stroker. I have a single "BB" Winfield on it. I have a model "B" distributor with a shade tree modified advance curve, lighter springs and the weight slots extended. Seems to work. I have a Riley dual manifold in process that I'm going to mount 2 Winfield "C"'s on. But first I want to compare the power over a measured distance with various sizes of single down draft carburetors starting with a "B" Winfield and ending with a "CC" and then 81 and 97 Strombergs.

 

This is the S10 4x4 to Model-A, correct? Not the Jeep 4x4 to V8?

 

Hopefully someone can answer this. How does the Ford tractor/agricultural motors compare to the car motors? Are the the same blocks or completely different castings?

 

J man....
I think the tractor block is part of the frame. the front end mounts off the block. My buddy put a v8 in his 9n and he had to build a frame to support the moter an front end he has a home made intake with 2 carbs very badass looking.
Bill

 

The SUs are AUD 94 F and R

 

Ernie,
Yes it is the casting for the S-10 4x4 trans.

.

 

Dang...I got 4 Jeep T5s here...

 

J-Man,
The early Ford tractors like the 8n and 9n are half of a V-8 flathead (21 stud I think). They are nothing like a model A or B. Some of the car V-8 parts are the same as the tractor engine parts. Small C.I.D.

.

 

Ernie,
I told you that I would help you out with your when you were ready. Are you ready?
.

 

Thanks Bill,
I hope you will share some of your findings with us when your done.
.