Bangin' in the New Year - The January BANGER meet is now open

dont really care, but an ally one would be keen. if not, then a starter one is ok.

Some guy contacted me saying that he would sell me a Ally hogs head with pedals, english front axle and an RHD model A Steering box and spindle arms for 310.00 USD, all I had to do was send him a western union...

 

So as early as possible then - my stuff tends to be '26/27.

Western Union eh? Sounds a "dodgy geezer"... Unless it was Neil Tuckett in which case he's trustworthy but still a "geezer".

 

JetMek and CoalTownKid,

There are a whole lot of myths out there amongst the "old timers" about T crank breakage. I'm sure that they broke quite easily and often under racing conditions. But, as to speedster type use (mild high performance), the only proven cause has been excessive crank run out. A certain gentleman examined many broken T cranks. This project took place about five years age. In every event there was excessive run out. (That's the short version of the story. There was a lot more "scientificism" to it.) That's not to say, though, that there's no truth at all in any of those "myths".


BTW, if I recall correctly, this is the same gentleman that examined the very first broken Aussie crank and determined the cause mentioned above by fur biscuit. And further, again if I recall correctly, this same gentleman's theory on broken cranks was that it was the bolt-on counterweights that were causing so many to break and he set out to prove that. Instead, he found the excessive run out as the cause.

 

A .125 milled stock head certainly helps, but does shroud the valves. The Z head is much better because of the combustion chamber design. "Free" might offset some of the horsepower difference!

1919 was the switch over year from top to bottom on the wishbone.

 

The Runabout (roadster) is the lightest model. Depending on the wheels it has (clincher vs. demountable) and whether it is an electric starter version or not, it weighs between 1395 lbs. and 1540 lbs.

Thoughts on some places to remove weight:

install aluminum head

remove top

install aluminum windshield frame (paint to match, if you wish to hide it)

replace glass with plexi

lighter wheels (wires or aluminum disks)

install aluminum hogshead cover

remove turtle deck

remove magneto and coils (replace with distributor)

replace wood flooring with aluminum sheet

replace as much of the hardwood as possible/practical with balsa wood

replace steel fan with aluminum fan (again, paint to match if you want to hide it)

replace radiator with aluminum version

remove leaves from springs (also lowering the car)

"delete" the spare tire

 

Damn good month again, men. Gonna be a shame to see it end...

 

Chugging is not the issue, per se, but sudden increase and decrease in RPM (on and off the gas) and poor spark modulation. A "T" must be driven with finesse to extract the max performance.

 

much of the early tee quality stuff is avaliable in repro take the bosch front distributor drive throw away the distributor and adapt a modern electronic one i use early nisson ones but most others can be made fit remember u will be using the bevel gears off the bosch unit togeather with a 12 volt alternator and you are half way there also and i stress again high compression heads and heavy flywheels dont go togeather throw away the magnetsand look at how much weight you loose rember to provide oil to the bands though

 

Did you see the 'ONE-OFF' part on my post????

They built billions on VW cranks IT WAS A PRODUCTION ITEM!

I know no one that hashad any luck with their 'special order one-off cranks! There is always something wrong!

THEY ARE TRASH even if you catch it and they fix it it isn't worth the effort EVER!

 

My formula for out-running a stock Model A is a good pair of Nikes and the desire to get to Krispy Kream!!!!

 

I've got the desire.... where do I get these Nikes?

 

ok I see your point. just seems odd that the item that should get the most skilled operator and attention to detail would have such consistant problems when their regular cranks are great

what's a moldex one off cost compared to a the scat unit??

 

So, I have an add posted over on the MTFCA site looking for a head for my new speedster project. Which I was able to line up promptly. But I recieved an email from the below individual, noting that he was from London:

"My name is Gary Buchanan, I saw your Wanted Ad, so I decided to e-mail you to see if you still wanted it as I have it to offer. Just list out the parts you will be needing.

Gary Buchanan
London N17 9YA, United Kingdom
+447024079228"

As I had the head squared away I decided to ask him about some additional parts that would be easier to aquire across the pond.:

"Morning Gary,

I was able to secure a head, but I am looking for a few parts which you may be able to help me with (this would be so fun to yank everyone's chain over here and build an RHD car).

RHD hogs head with pedals (starter or aluminum)

English T front axle.

RHD Model A steering box and steering arms.

God help me with the cost of shipping...

Thanks -

Doug"

To which he responds fairly promptly:

"Thanks for the mail. Shipping will not be a problem as I will be shipping via UPS on a next day delivery. I have the requested parts in a good condition and I am asking a $310 for the requested parts. I will only accept payment via Western union or Money gram. What's your shipping address?
Thanks,
Gary"

Now, that is a pretty good price, but the shipping is kinda odd...to ship the requested items via UPS next day would cost a small fortune. I also ask him for pictures, to which he respondes:

"Thanks for the mail. I don't have pictures in my computer. What's your complete shipping address? The requested parts are all in a good shape.

Thanks,

Gary"

Good shape but no pictures? hmmm...I press him again for pictures, Instead he calls me! from the land of the Limeys! at 0600 PST!. Of course I want specifics on the parts, which through his very heavy Limey (Indian) accent, he can not describe the parts, nor any specifics about the parts other than that they are in great shape and he will ship them very promptly for me up reciept of Western Union or other wire transfer. Of course during the course of our riviting conversation, in which he is so very well versed in...the phone goes dead. But was followed by a prompt email by me appologizing for the dead call and an additional request for pics. He reponds:

"I am sorry I don't have pictures and I don't know anything about the head."

I ask about the rest of the parts...he responds:

"The parts are in good condition but I am sorry I don't have pictures."

So finally say that I will drop by in person and check the parts out, still waiting for an address...But wait, what before my wondering eyes should appear, but Mr. Milton Bergh:


"My name is Milton Bergh, I saw your Wanted Ad, so I decided to e-mail you to see if you still wanted it as I have it to offer. Just list out the parts you will be needing."



Milton Bergh
London SE1 5AA , United Kingdom
+447024079228


Jeez Milt, you have the same phone number as Gary...

 

any one across the pond want to check out this guys stash?

Gary Buchannan 130 Shelbourne road, London N17 9YA, United Kingdom

which jives with this address:

Gary Buchanan
London N17 9YA, United Kingdom
+447024079228

 

RUN! And don't look back!

Thats got scam written all over it.

 

WHAT IS THE COST OF JUNK THAT DOESN'T WORK AND YOU HAVE TO REMAKE !!

Moldex takes longer and are generally same or less.

 

A Niketown

 

Hey Fur,
I've got a cheap way to get there from California. You send me $310 CASH and I will mail you a train ticket for the British Isle express. 1st class accommodations and it is faster then the airliners. Of course you will have to get to Los Angeles on your own.

 

Try this:

http://www.scamchecker.com/

 

the final email from today...

"I guess you should look for someone else to play pranks with okay. Gary"

I think a phone call to the local contabulary might be in order, not that they would care. But international wire fraud is always fun.

 

Hey you have just made an entry into the giant lottery scam now set back and read about all the huge sums of money coming your way
ask me how I know
Ken

 

HAHA!!! this is just to much fun. Are you heading to the Big 3? can I pick up there?

 

I won't be going, but coincedentaly someone with the same email address and HAMB name as me will be. If you see me there, It is him.

 

now where is the fun in that? I have always wanted to go to London in the spring time.

 

Well, if you do make your way over, let me know. I'm only 10 minutes away from that address.

So much T activity right on my door step and I didn't even know about it....

 

Was just wondering what the difference in price was for scrap vs. usable part.


no excuse for scat to be making junk parts like that.

 

Wondering if you guys could give me a few pointers on chassis paint. I hope to build my A from the ground up and it will be a driver. My plan is a fenderless roadster on an A frame so the frame will show. I would like something durable yet easy to touchup. Am not interested in polyurethanes. Any suggestions? Thanks Ken

 

Try powder coating, if you do it in black there is a company that sells touch up paint that is really really good.--TV

 

Always remember Grasshopper we eat tender leaves! It's not our job to eat shit That's the fly's job.

The difference between crap and good is your reputation when you name is on the engine. Money just doesn't count. EVER

 

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