F100 brakes

I've found quite a bit of good information on the swap, but just want to ensure that I dig up all the right stuff.

I purchased drums, hubs and backing plates from a '56 F100. I also have a set of '37 Ford spindles on the way. (1936 axle) I understand that this is a direct bolt on swap. (with a bearing kit from Speedway).

QUESTIONS:

1) I was told you can swap the '56 guts, with '66 guts (F100) and this adds the self adjusting feature. Is this true?

2) How should the hubs attach to the drums?

3) What studs should I use? (length, thread pitch, etc.)

ANY other tips, tricks etc. PLEASE pass them own.

 

Go here for the straight skinny on the changeover. Or look at my signature

http://www.flatheadv8.org/f1brakes1.htm

I figured out the 66 brake swap about 20 years ago omn my 32 roadster. I do not claim to be the only one or the FIRST ... but I never read about it from anyone else until I posted it here 6 or 7 years ago.

 

that depends on what bolt pattern you want to use. if you are staying with the 5-1/2" , just use the studs that are already in your hubs. they have 1/2-20 thread

 

So the Speedway kit is the way to go for the bearings?

 

depends on pricing in your area I guess. I have done the same swap on my Model A, and simply did the bearings by size at our local engineers supplies store. If it helps I could flick a hub of and get you the part numbers. Or alternatively there was a tech article in the "ol skool rods" magazine a few issues back which gave bearing part numbers.
Might be quicker/cleaner if I dig that out! I'll have a look and come back and edit this post when I find it.

 

That would be great. One last question, Are the drums suppose to have a slit cut thru the front? Both have them and it looks factory.

 

I have go to the parts house ... used the numbers in the article I posted ...
and done it that a way.

Sometimes Speedway sells " offshore China parts " to get that low price offered in their catalog I am leary of their stuff unless it is a NAME BRAND part such as Holley, Edelbrock ect.

 

ok here is the part numbers
inner race 14276
inner bearing 14116 these are all Timken numbers.
outer race 09195
outer bearing 09067
seal national 450461

the ol skool issue is #19 Jan 2007. Worth have a read as there are a couple little tricks to the swap.
My car runs Early Dodge rims whick are the same pattern as later ford (5 on 4and 1/2) so I run 56 ford car hubs and drums with the f100 backing plates.

hope this is all helpful.

 

yup.

 

I was wanting to mock up my axle the other day, couldn't find bearings locally anywhere. I called Oreilly, Autozone(no surprise there), but Standard and even NAPA didn't have those part #s. I ordered them from Mac's.

 

You could have called a bearing supply house. They are a good source of quality bearings.
Don't forget about grinding a radius on the inner bearing. It is needed to fit up against the spindle which has a radius.

 

The slit is for a feeler gauge between shoe and drum in a "major" adjustment on period Bendixes like these and Lincoln. The major adjustment was done when new shoes were installed and involve slightly loosening the anchor and tapping it until specified feeler fit between lining and drum. Subsequent adjustments without shoe replacement were "minor" and involved only the starwheel adjustment. Location and gauge thickness are in the bulletins somewhere. Later Bendixes had fixed anchors.

 

You guys are great. Thanks agian!

 

It was Saturday afternoon, and I live a long way from the city.

 

You may already have all the info you need, but here's another thread with some of the same info, just for reference:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=309363&highlight=malcolm+brakes


Malcolm

 

Just found this place online. www.rockauto.com

They have new 56 drums for cheap, new inards for 66 brakes. Looks like everything but hubs and backing plates to set up a brand new set of traditional looking brakes. Cool and functional, imagine that.

 

So the top anchor was adjustable? In what way?

 

You loosen the big nut on the back and tap it with a hammer...

 

I got 35 ford spindles and front axle on my model A coupe with mechanical brakes, I would like to put some 1960 f100 drums onto these spindles can anybody reading this thread tell me if this is possible.

 

I do not believe that can be (easily) done. The '48-'56 F1/F100 brakes can be made to work with your '35 spindles...

See this link for more info:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...malcolm+brakes

 

Thanks Malcolm, I will check it out.

 

What kind of bearing did you use for the -56 car drums?

 

Another option is to get two passenger side spindles from an F-1. Make sure you are using spindles from a 1948 to 1952 pickup only, as the angle of the spindle to kingpin is different on the later, ‘53 to ‘56 F-100. If you cut the steering arms off of both spindles, you can use S’way or C/Engineering bolt on steering arms and standard ‘40 to ‘48 king pin kits. One of the passenger side spindles becomes the driver’s side. You can also trim all the clunky forging off of a driver’s side spindle, and use it, but if you can find two right side spindles, its less work with a grinder.

<p>The best part is you don’t have to grind a new radius on the inside of the inner bearing, and if you’re okay with the square shape, you’ve just saved a load of money over the early V-8 round style spindles. I just bought two right spindles off an F-1 guy for $25.00.

<p>Good luck on your project.