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Low and/or channeled cars with cut-out exhaust dumps

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by scootermcrad, Feb 3, 2009.

  1. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    Need some help here guys! For those of you who have hot rods that are super low to the ground and run cutout exhaust systems, how did you run your dump pipes? Did you run them through the frame??

    I've done it. My Model A is too low. Can't sneak the pipes undernieth so I'm thinking I'm going to have to pass through the cowl and through the frame. Sounds easy, right? Problem is, I have to be able to pull the pipe through the holes that means any flanges that have to be pretty small so they'll pull through the hole in the cowl as well as the port in the frame.

    Oval tubing? V-band clamped unions? Threaded something or anothers??

    Lets see what you guys have done.

    Thanks!
     
  2. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    So... NOBODY has a hot rod that is too low for their cut-out dumps to go under their frame??
     
  3. Roadsterpu
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 896

    Roadsterpu
    Member

    Run lake headers. Problem solved. :D
     
  4. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,775

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    Maybe hotrods shouldn't be so low you can't get the freakin' exhaust pipe under the frame .
    If you can't get a pipe under the frame there is no doubt you have a scrubline violation.
     
  5. BangerMatt
    Joined: Mar 3, 2008
    Posts: 465

    BangerMatt
    Member

    Maybe the pipe would cause the scrubline problem?
     
  6. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    WOW! Thanks for your well thought-out contribution to my problem. That clears everything up for me. I'll change my ride height to suit your visual preferances.

    You know nothing about what I'm building and as mentioned above the pipe itself would be the scrubline problem. All you wanted to do was say what you were feeling instead of helping with the solution. If you don't have something productive to add to the thread and just feel like wasting people's time, maybe you should keep your comments to yourself.
     
  7. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    They're lakeheaders with cutouts. I'll be running them open most of the time, but for road trips I'm going to cork 'em.
     
  8. drfreeze
    Joined: Sep 18, 2008
    Posts: 293

    drfreeze
    Member

    burns stainless v-clamps
     
  9. Roadsterpu
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 896

    Roadsterpu
    Member

    GEEZ thanks for ruining what I thought was a funny comment with logic.
     
  10. nailhead ed
    Joined: Aug 15, 2006
    Posts: 58

    nailhead ed
    Member

    couldn't agree with you more about the negative comment issue that runs wild at times here.......but on another note I recall a roadster I believe Troy Trepanier built a couple of years ago he ran the exhaust thru the frame sleeved...looked pretty trick...that might be the ticket for your issue
     
  11. chopnchaneled
    Joined: Oct 21, 2004
    Posts: 1,428

    chopnchaneled
    Member
    from Buford Ga.

    Last time i did what your faced with i used some band clamps from that came
    from coleman racing products 1 800 221 1851
    they have stepped clamps that go from 2 1/2" id to 2 1/2 od thur 4" id and 4" od
    didn't have any leaks.
    hope this helps
     
  12. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    That is exactly what I had in mind! Per chance, do you have a picture or know which car he did this on so I can look for it?

    Thanks for your input!

    :D:D HAHA! This only happened because you don't come to breakfast enough! :D:D

    And while I'm at it, here's the mock-up of the cone just so you can get an idea of what's going on here. The car is sitting a little higher because of the dollys. Hopefully you can get the gist of what I mean...

    [​IMG]
     
  13. 26T
    Joined: Jul 8, 2006
    Posts: 112

    26T
    Member
    from Denver

    Is this kind of what you are talking about?
     

    Attached Files:

  14. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    Is this the type of thing you mention?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Do these things actually work well? This would be a pretty slick, lo-profile solution that would easily slide between the cowl interior and the outside of the frame rail. I think I have just enough clearance for something like this... if they work that is.

    This leads me to the next issue of... if I make the port too big in diameter then I risk weekening the frame at that point. That's why I was sort of kicking around the idea of oval tubing, but band clamps probably don't really work with oval.
     
  15. drfreeze
    Joined: Sep 18, 2008
    Posts: 293

    drfreeze
    Member

    hey are you going to use a sheet metal cove for the steering arm? if so how about another one just below for the pipe to go thru. just a thought
     
  16. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    YES! This is VERY similar to what I'm faced with!! Thank you! I forgot all about Troy's roadster! I will shoot him a PM!

    Thanks for all the good input guys!
     
  17. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    I am indeed going to use a cove type of thing for the draglink where it passes through the cowl. I was kicking around that idea for the cutout dumps as well, depending on how it works out with the frame.
     
  18. skunx1964
    Joined: Aug 21, 2008
    Posts: 1,455

    skunx1964
    Member

    removable baffles perhaps?
     
  19. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

  20. Here's how the exhaust was ran on this one. :)

    [​IMG]
     
  21. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    I'm not actually not corking them for noise reasons (although that is an alternate reason so I don't go crazy on a long trip), but more so for tuning reasons. The engine is being setup for highway performance and the exhaust will compliment the engine behavior, so baffles won't get me much in that department, just make it quiter.
     
  22. Go to the build thread by my friend Rolf with the Model A coupe and look how he did it. He hid his down pipe to the exhaust over the frame and in front of the firewall. Looks slick and you don't have to cut a hole through the frame. It might work for you. His build is in the archives. Hope this helps. After again looking at your picture of your mockup I think this idea would work best and look great. I have never cared for the hole through the frame look.But that's just me.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2009
  23. drfreeze
    Joined: Sep 18, 2008
    Posts: 293

    drfreeze
    Member

    yes Rolf's is very nice ! or you could get creative with oval pipe .
     

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    Last edited: Feb 4, 2009
  24. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    Never noticed Rolf did that. I'll check it out! Thanks! And yes... I have the thought I might have to get creative with oval tubing. Just takes time. I don't mind as long as it's done right in the end, looks good, flows nice and the frame is still strong.

    I have a 1" gap between the floor panels and the top of the frame. I might be able to actually bring the top of the frame up, just in that area and get away with it so I can have a decent sized tube running through there.

    Lots of good ideas here and it's got the creative brain juices flowing! Glad this thread didn't go the "other direction".
     
  25. drfreeze
    Joined: Sep 18, 2008
    Posts: 293

    drfreeze
    Member

    hear ya go
     

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  26. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    GAH! You beat me to it! One more view, since I have it ready to paste...

    [​IMG]

    This definitely is the best view...

    [​IMG]

    The only problem I have doing this is that I have an oil filter on the passenger side RIGHT where the tubing would have to dump and I have no other place to locate it except inside the car. Not sure if I can get around it. I'll have to stare at it. The would certainly be the easiest method. Just might have to do more complicated things to get the oil filter relocated than I would like.
     
  27. Roadsterpu
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 896

    Roadsterpu
    Member

    That was the way I was thinking. Running oval tubing under the car will give you the ground clearance you need. Could you mount the oil filter on the fram under the coupe? I know it will make it harder to change the filter but it might solve your space issues. Obviously goign to need ot make sure there is enough room between the exhaust and the filter.
     
  28. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    I was actually thinking oval tubing going through the frame, so I don't take too much meat out of the side rails vertically. The car only has about 5 inches of ground clearance between the frame and the ground and it's right in that awesome "speedbump zone" where it would dump. HA! :rolleyes::D
     
  29. skunx1964
    Joined: Aug 21, 2008
    Posts: 1,455

    skunx1964
    Member

    that wont hurt performance?
     
  30. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    Here's a close up view of Troy's 32 Roadster and how he went through the frame...

    [​IMG]

    It's sort of hard to see in this picture (very top of the screen), because the back section of the exhaust is removed, but you can see where it just pokes through from the passenger side header. Troy told me he uses V-band clamps to bring the two together.

    [​IMG]
     

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