Projects '48 - '52 F1/2/3: Are these rear fender bolts "bolts"? How to remove?

Are these rear fender bolts welded in, or splined "studs"? Are they even bolts?

I've seen replacement ones, but they all looked like regular bolts. These are factory ones from my '50 F2 (8' Express Bed).

The heads are smooth, with no way to grab 'em, and they feel rock-solid tight in there... how do I get 'em out of there without banging up the bed sides too bad? Use a black pipe with a "snowshoe" made of some plate welded to the top of it, hold the assembly under the stud/bolt, and bang it through?

Any help is appreciated!

~Jason

 

And yes, it really IS a big, damn bed. The first time I saw an F1 after being used to this for so long, I couldn't get over how small it was! LOL!

You should've seen the look on my face as I was getting into my car and cursing at the "obnoxiously large pickup truck" (a 3/4 ton) that was parked next to me, making it hard to get into my car... then I realized that I had one just like it (yes, a 3/4 ton), albeit 60 years older!

~Jason

 

They are most likely a carriage bolt that is just rusted to the bed sides. The Internationals i have pulled fenders off of some times on them the bolt gets rusted to the bed side and takes alittle work to get them worked out.

 

Hey Jason,

I boleave these, like the later F100s, were swaged into place prior to being primered/painted. You could heat them up and press them out, using a back up piece just big enough to allow the head of the stud through.
Once removed, you'll have alittle metal work to do, as the metal around the pressed/beaten out stud will have distorted.
Dumb question, but why do you want to remove them?

Swankey Devils C.C.

" It's time for another Tea Party! "

 

I just took all mine out last week. I had no patience. I took a grinder to them, then what was left just fell out the other side. (1950 F1) Replaced with stainless steel.

 

those are just studs, they don't come out. Unless you have a B.F.H. A big fucking hammer.

 

Keep them on if at all possible. Otherwise you can center drill the head from inside the bed about an 1/8" in with a 5/16" drill bit, and they should fall off or slight hammer persuasion. Grinding will heat the bedside, and a BFH might bend the bedside too. Leave the big washer head in place helps. I don't think you can buy replacements so SS button heads will work.

 

I have a busted one.

And besides, paint's gonna be shot on it soon. I can get new bolts from LMC, but was just curious how to get them out.

I mean, surely they wouldn't sell replacement bolts for some that are supposed to be in there forever, you know?

~Jason

 

Number 13 on this catalog page: http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fa/full.aspx?Page=22

$9.99 for black, $29.99 for stainless.

If they're THAT cheap, and look THAT good after paint, then knowing how to get them out is the only thing separating me from having the peace of mind that ALL the rust is gone under those bolts before paint. Well, that and $30.

So I came to you guys for the info I was lacking... I mean, I'll be replacing one, why not do 'em all?

~Jason

 

So, I'm only a grinder ad some time away from extracting these?

They really just fall out? Which end did you grind off - the head, or the threads?

Is there any other method?

I plan on doing the exact same thing you did - rip 'em out, and replace 'em with stainless. I just want to make sure I'm not F'n it up, you know?

Hey - what's that gas tank from, and what's it's capacity? Like everyone doing one of these trucks, I'm always sizing up every gas tank I see, evaluating it on the fly for it's usability between my frame rails. LOL!

~Jason

 

The old timer that did mine used a super-thick walled pipe on the inside, with an I.D. just a poofteenth bigger than the 'head', pushed up HARD against the bedside.

Then applied an 'EBFH' with just one deft blow from the outside....but I SERIOUSLY warn you......be careful of the resultant projectile!!!!

But came out clean as a whistle with minimum rufflage of the bedsides!!!!

'E' is for Extremely !

 

These studs are spot welded in place. The underside of the head has 3 small tits that make contact with the bedside and when the "juice" is applied they weld to the bedside. The safest way to remove if you don't want to risk denting the bedside is to first center drill from inside the bed to the diameter of the core of the stud not the thread size which is 5/16". Then grind the head remains until gone. This is a rare bed so don't risk screwing it up. The replacements need to be spot welded to keep from turning. If you can't do that, a tip is to run a sharp tap over the threads several times so the nut freely spins on. Then use JB Weld to secure the stud. If you put the nut on with an anti-seize, you have a good chance of later getting them off without spinning the stud loose.

 

It IS a rare bed... I ended up driving 6 hours away and 6 hours back for a set of running boards to match on 1/1... and even then they were a little beat up, and one required repair (which I cut up another F1 running board that was trashed in the places mine was not) to repair. Hell, I was more than glad to have 'em!

So yeah, I really don't want to mess that bed up - that's why I was asking. As strong as it looks (and don't get me wrong, it IS strong), those sides are still thin enough to be messed up with a hammer of any kind. Reinforcements to the stake pockets will be made as well, and after it's painted, I am indeed putting bedliner on the side walls, as well as the floors of the cab (upper and lower) and the running boards will be completely covered. Then, I'm going to drive the wheels off of it... why have a truck if you can't actually use it, right? Of course, the most I'll be hauling will be a new couch or mattress home, or maybe an occasional engine, and occasionally a trailer. Either way, it's hard days on the farm are gone forever.

Thanks for the info!

Hey - any other guys have any other ways to get 'em out? I'm always interested in hearing as many opinions and methods as I can!

~Jason

 

The best way to remove one is to grind the head down flush with the bed and the threaded part will come right out.

If the original ones are in good shape I would leave them in. if it isn't broke why fix it.

 

Yea aint it a pain in the ass to find those 8 Foot beds, Mine for my F-3 is a tailgate that is missing the bottom roll serious rust in the sides, and a front panel that is screwed. Guess i'll have to make the rest

 

Affirmative! The only reason some come off with the BFH treatment is that the original welds were less than perfect or rust weakened them. The part is known as a "weld stud" and was never planned to be replaced in normal service.

 

I have no problem leaving the original ones in - it's just that I figured I had a broken one, and they didn't sell singles.

You know how it goes - you get into a project and end up in a mire of "might as wells".

~Jason

 

Well shit!

So, you're telling me that the "bolt kits" sold by LMC, etc are just carriage bolts?

No doubt, f1trucknut! No way I'm replacing a stud with a nut... well, except for the onr broken one. I can live with that.

~Jason

 

Todd from here: http://www.northernclassictrucks.com/complete.htm

Sent me to Bruce Horkey here: http://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com/

Between the both of them you'll find some of what you need, or they can direct you to it. Bruce Horkey is the only guy out there that sells pre-made, OEM-Style WOODEN crossmembers for the 8' Express Bed.

Yes, they are WOOD, for those that didn't know. I don't know why...

~Jason

 

When I had to replace a few of the studs on my f-1 I ordered them from LMC and they came in dennis carpenter packaging. they had a square shoulder like a cariage bolt but the head was flat like the originals.

My truck is a daily driver/work truck so I just used them as is (I didn't weld them or glue them in). They tightened up fine once the "cariage bolt" portion of the shank dug into the metal.


When I bought a new bed for my 48 from norther classic truck the bolts that came with the bed were identical to the stock ford bolts with 3 little nubs under the head.

 

I had a few broken ones on my F1. I beveled the ends of what was left, made new extensions from bolts of the same size that I also beveled on one end, and welded them to the stubs. I then dressed the welds to the diameter of the bolt and ran a thread die over them. Worked fine, and was a lot less work than replacing all of them.

 

Don't suppose you have any pics of that, would you?

~Jason

 

LOL!

EVERYTHING comes from Dennis Carpenter it seems! I've flipped through several catalogs and have been able to spot his stuff a mile away!

You know, I wonder if http://www.northernclassictrucks.com/ would sell me one bolt? I mean, I do need front fender extensions and rear fender braces... maybe I'll give 'em a call.

~Jason

 

Sorry, I did that repair very quickly and never thought to take a pic.

Something else I want to try if I ever have to repair one again is to drill out the broken stud from inside the bed with a bit a little smaller than the diameter of the bolt shank, leaving the spot welded flat head of the original bolt in place on the bed wall with a hole right in the center. Then I will thread that hole through the head and bed wall, run a new bolt shank through until the shank is just slightly countersunk in the old bolt head, plug weld the shank to the original head, and grind it smooth to restore the original look.

Removing these bolts is a bitch without messing up the bed wall, so I find it easier to repair them in place.

 

Man... that's a great idea!

~Jason

 

This is what I was trying to say last night. A 5/16" drill bit in the center entering to a depth of 1/8" will not engage the entire 5/16" of drill bit...close, but not quite. It will leave the head in place, and then you can replace as SlamIam mentioned. And also LMC sells carriage bolts (doesn't surprise me they're DC's)...the originals are not. You'll get'er.

 

Reference bolt supplier. Take a look at "elevator" bolts. They are used for bolting cleats or buckets on conveyor belting. I've used them in the past with good results. The head is flat and relatively large in diameter for the stud size. I'm sure, worst case, McMaster has them.

 

I was wondering if there were other uses for 'em!

~Jason

 

I just emailed Todd at http://www.northernclassictrucks.com/ to see if he'll sell just one or two bolts (the kind with the three nubbins). We'll see what he says...

~Jason

 

Ground off the threaded end then the "head" fell off the other side. I think a couple of them I just tapped with a hammer.
Gas tank is out of a 1995 Full size Chevy/GMC van. I mounted it sideways. Fits like it was made to go in there. I even used the straps from the van between the frame rails. To easy. The entire drivetrain is from the van that's why I used this tank, it made my life a lot easier. 350fi and computer and 700r4 blah blah blah..........