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Painting an intake?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by hotrod30a, Feb 9, 2009.

  1. hotrod30a
    Joined: Jan 12, 2008
    Posts: 57

    hotrod30a
    Member

    I would like to paint an aluminum cast intake. What have you used? engine high temp paint? Has anyone apinted and clear coated them? I have painted small engines for cushman scooters with base and clear and never had a problem with the heat. Just curious what everyone has had sucess with.
     
  2. choppintops
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,460

    choppintops
    BANNED

    I powder mine now, but have painted many with no issues.
     
  3. hotrod30a
    Joined: Jan 12, 2008
    Posts: 57

    hotrod30a
    Member

    did you have to use high temp? or do you think i could clear coat it?
     
  4. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    my experiance with the clear coat..is it gets stained or it yellows..than it looks like crap in a few years.
     
  5. choppintops
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,460

    choppintops
    BANNED

    I always used an enamel. I agree with Fink clear turns to shit as soon as fuel finds it, even if gas doesnt touch it, eventually it yellows or peels.
     
  6. hamiltonintakes
    Joined: Jan 28, 2009
    Posts: 79

    hamiltonintakes
    Member
    from Chico, CA

    I powder coat just about everything. Don't have a big enough oven for an engine block, or I would do them too.
     
  7. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
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    from Garage


    how does that powder coating hold up?..is there such a thing as clear powder coating?..would that work..or does it yellow or discolor too after time around fuel?
     
  8. choppintops
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,460

    choppintops
    BANNED

    Fink, powder is easy as hell. Plus you can bolt the part on once it cools. Gas doesnt do squat to it. Hard to scuff up and ruin. And yes, they make clears.

    I'm with Hamilton here. Not only my block, but if I could powder my house I would.
     
  9. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage


    great!..thanks for the heads up on that..I will eventually get around to doing Powder coating..as you said i hear its fairly easy to do..Ive already got a set up in my shop to cook the parts..so all i need is to buy the stuff to do it.
     
  10. choppintops
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,460

    choppintops
    BANNED

    I bought one of the Eastwood guns and a Harbor Frieght gun (for $50 on sale) and I actually prefer the HF gun. Their powder sucks though. The yellow is more of a school bus yellow and the red is really "ornagey". For oven, I have 2 house ovens I got both for free on CL and they work like a charm. I even built a "shroud" that sits on the door when its open to give me a bigger oven, though its not very heat efficient,,, but it works. If you start powdering at home, you will be spoiled. I've even done 15 X 10" rims.
     
  11. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    great!..i wonder ...whats the temp you have to cook at and for how long?
     
  12. FONZI
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,536

    FONZI
    Member

    I can tell you from experience that clear coating it (powder coat) won't have the results you hope for. Totally changes the look (looks painted grey not cast) You would be better off trying to find a powder coat color close to the color of cast.


    FONZI
     
  13. choppintops
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,460

    choppintops
    BANNED

    Varies by powder, but typically "around" 350 degrees for 20-30 minutes from when it starts to "convert" (turn to "liquid"), so you are looking at 350 and 45 minutes or so.
     
  14. mj40's
    Joined: Dec 11, 2008
    Posts: 3,303

    mj40's
    Member

    Powder coat it mirror silver and then a clear powder coat over that. That is what was done to these covers.
     

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  15. ThunderRoad Garage
    Joined: Jun 8, 2007
    Posts: 172

    ThunderRoad Garage
    Member
    from missouri

    i'll be damned... powder coating using a kitchen oven. makes so much sense. someone should do a little tech thread for this. i will definitely be giving it a try.
     
  16. hotrod30a
    Joined: Jan 12, 2008
    Posts: 57

    hotrod30a
    Member

    great tips! I know i am going to try it! Thanks everyone
     
  17. hamiltonintakes
    Joined: Jan 28, 2009
    Posts: 79

    hamiltonintakes
    Member
    from Chico, CA

    Kitchen oven will work, but don't use the one in your house.
     
  18. 39 Ford
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 1,558

    39 Ford
    Member

    i painted mine with clear engine enamel is a spray can, it's OK. If I had another chance I would use "Cast Blast Aluminum" engine enamel.
     
  19. denis4x4
    Joined: Apr 23, 2005
    Posts: 4,314

    denis4x4
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Colorado

    Powder coated the side covers and intakes on several Model A engines and they look as good as new five years later.
     

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  20. ThunderRoad Garage
    Joined: Jun 8, 2007
    Posts: 172

    ThunderRoad Garage
    Member
    from missouri

    oh right,... sure.... wouldnt think if it... or at least i wont now.:D kinda wish i had kept the old ovens i threw out.
     
  21. tbroich
    Joined: Nov 3, 2008
    Posts: 12

    tbroich
    Member

    I had my intake clear powder coated several years ago. It has held up well and shows no gas stains.

    If you want to paint it a color, look into POR-15. They sell complete engine paint kits.
     
  22. I have painted several, but they were on lowriders, and weren't driven too much. We used a base/clear. PREP, PREP, PREP!!!
     
  23. jimi'shemi291
    Joined: Jan 21, 2009
    Posts: 9,499

    jimi'shemi291
    Member

    Cool thread, good food for thought. Helps avoid mistakes!
     
  24. SlamIam
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 468

    SlamIam
    Member

    +1 on that, didn't like the way mine turned out either.
     
  25. rails32
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 110

    rails32
    Member

    First clean the manifold,then glass bead it.Buy Krylon metailic paint Dull Aluminum and spray a light miss coat. When it dries put the manifold on,run the engine after it gets hot it will cure the paint. The trick is a light coat. It will look like a new manifold,once it get hot oil and gas stains will wipe right off. I work in a restoration shop this is what we do with all our aluminum manifolds on the concors judged cars.
     
  26. Streetwerkz
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 718

    Streetwerkz
    Member

    Trust me... I'm not biased in the least, but powder coat it

    don't use glass bead, it impinges itself in the base metal
     
  27. idiggett
    Joined: Feb 22, 2008
    Posts: 59

    idiggett
    Member

    A flat clear powdercoat keeps it looking like cast, fills the pits a bit, but i like the look better than gloss clear.
     
  28. Jimmy Tee
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 582

    Jimmy Tee
    Member

    I had mine Hydroblasted and then I Primed it with 2-Pack primer before applying a 2-Pack Clear over Base finish (Silver). It stood up to the heat just fine and was a Breeze to keep clean because of the smooth finish the Clear provided. The trick it not to put too many layers on it.
     
  29. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,413

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    I painted a Dart intake with semi-gloss black Krylon for my bracket racer. The whole engine actually. After a dozen minor spills with race gas it barely stained, more like a minor wash out. When I went through the motor the last time I hot tanked the intake and to my surprise most all of the paint was still on it! Prep em good. No blasting if you can help it. I washed it with slow dry lacquer thinner and a bristle brush, blew it dry and painted it with just one even coat.

    Since you might ask, I had 2 reasons for the black on everything. Initially it was built as a midnight street racer and that black makes everything "go away". I ground the Dart logo off and used an air cleaner adaptor to cover the Dominator carb. All in all it really looked good once done. Factory chrome vslve covers on risers and a single braided line to the carb, a chrome alternator (cuz I had it) and that's it. I left it that way. The second reason was it ran really cool being semi black. Science tell us that heat goes toward the black and the air takes the heat away. Works like a champ. Ok, ok, too much info...
     

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