That first point is exactly what I was thinking. In terms of price, what would you say is a good one based off of what you see so far? I'll post more pictures later of the car and all included parts when I next get in touch with the owner.
college should be the priority, and that should be where the $ and time go, especially if you have a tough major like Engineering. If you have money to burn AFTER tuition, books, housing, etc, I say go for it, but negotiate on that price down without the "Vette" motor. I can say this because I built a car my Senior year in a storage unit off campus
I always had project cars in college. Back then we didn't call them project cars, it was just my car... I agree with a few of the others saying $4K is a little steep for a non-running 4 door. I would hold out for a 2 door of some sort. It doesn't have to be a bel air but I would think you would regret putting all of your time and money into a 4 door down the road.
Do you have any place to store it, park it, work on it? Have any tools? Do you have support of your parents, Dad or Mom into cars and able to bail you out when you get stumped? Friends into cars? Have you picked up a Danchuk catalogue, or any supplier (I'm not into tri 5 Chevs, so I don't know all the suppliers) catalogue to see how much stuff REALLY costs to get one even remotely fixed up enough to drive? How much is it to begin with? What body style is it? Whats a 355? No offense, but it's not like building a plastic model, and it's very easy to get so far over your head you can't see daylight. Proceed with extreme caution and your eyes VERY wide open. You're on this board, look carefully at the projects shown so you have some kind of idea what's REALLY involved in "restoring" a 50 year old car. Start researching ebay, Craigs list, auction prices, local auto trader mags for an idea of what you can buy for whatever the amount of the old Chev is, that might be driveable. Every day on this board are questions about why some very simple automotive problem can't be solved by the person trying to revive an old sled, from corroded battery terminals, no spark, no fuel, something simple and basic that has the owner completely stumped. For someone with no automotive experience at all, one or two simple things can completely stall a project, and turn an expensive car in a garage ornament that'll never move again under it's own power. Good luck. Addendum: Now I see the car, missed your post with the photo. I'm gonna be your Dutch Uncle. Pass. You need to get school out of the way, not blow 4K on a 4dr sedan that needs everything. Buy something you can drive NOW if you're determined, take some basic auto classes at a junior college and learn to do things right. The Chev could be made into a car, but it's never gonna be very desirable, you'll spend more on it than it's worth in the end.
private party car buying....what it's worth is what you can buy it for. And that's completely different than what somebody else will pay. You need 2 seperate values here. First, what is the car worth on the fair market. This provides your maximum buy price. Second, what can you afford, and this needs to include a thousand dollars cash-in-hand when it comes home. If you don't have a thousand to fix stuff, an old "driver" is doomed to be parked. What you can afford is your offer, regardless of the car's value. You just can't exceed value. You may be shocked at how low private party sales can go. It's not uncommon to have a seller sit on 4k firm, but equally common that the car will go for 2500 and 10% of the time, 1500. Again, I'm cheap, but I'd lowball the***** out of that guy then move on. The car doesn't look special enough to dwell on given your situation, and quite frankly the thrill of the hunt is a great learning experience. If you're not looking at a dozen+ cars before buying your first project, you're DEFINITELY rushing in hastily. Call some ads and make some road trips, have fun and learn a lot. Days spent here will translate into months saved on the finished car. good luck
BTW if that car hasn't been wired, a loom has about 30-35 reliable years in it. Reliable for any kind of real driving that is. Don't be suprised if you end up installing a loom on anything that age in order to do what you wanna do. Goes back to my thousand bucks comment. good luck
Honestly if you have limited skills you are in for a huge project, but everyone has to start somewhere. Especially if you are going to school too. If you have the time, and patience, and the pocket book go for it. How mechanically inclined are you??
4 doors aren't worth much to restore but still better than a 401K. At that price you could drop it and learn some customizing and still get your money out later. Good luck How much for the Merc?
I'm great with mechanical things. I can almost always take anything apart without issue and put it back together within seconds. I will get back to you on that, if it's for sale at all. It's not mine. Also, no guarantees it runs. I can find that out for you this weekend though.
Four door Bel-Airs are cool and have their place in the antique car arena, they make nice cruisers. Be careful a full restoration can cost as much as the more desireable Bel-Airs. Looks like all the stainless is there, those pieces can get you in deep if missing, the rockers look solid and gaps look ok. Starting with a west coast car is a good approach. Bodywork costs are outrageous and most aftermarket sheet metal requires an experienced bodyman to fit. My advise, if you really like this car, clean it up, fix the mechanicals, run original hubcaps on blackwalls, drive it awile, have fun, you will get looks and fit in at cruises without all the time, energy, and money spent for a full resto. Many people burnout on projects. I'm not the expert so you decide. Glad you younger replacement generation of car guys are coming around. Good luck!
If it runs and drives well 4 grand is not bad. But even restored it won't be worth much more than 10-12. If you can use it for a driver to school and such go for it. I would however look for a gray beard on this forum to look at the car before you buy. I can't tell you how much these guys and gals have saved me on money and time on my builds.
your getting alot of good advice here. i bought a 4 door 55 in around march of 2000. i bought it from an old blue hair in los angeles, paid 4300 for it, but it was 100% stock and running. it had the 265 v8, power glide, interior was all original, head liner perfect, paint faded but good....and it ran great for 6 years before i upgraded everything, i still have it and it still serves as daily transportation. it wasnt my first old car, but it was pretty easy to redo everything compaired to other cars, because of the huge aftermarket support for these cars, you should keep that in mind no matter what car you get. so my thoughts are its a perfect car for a beginner, but your price seams a bit high, try to get it for less, show up with 2500, 3000 at the most and tell him take it or leave it, good luck
First off, thanks for all of the responses, advice, so on, and so forth. The price point is a great thing to know. Just for clarification, the fact that it's a 4 door is completely fine for me. For me, it just feels right. You can lower the driver side window, put your arm outside, and it rests just oh-so-perfectly on that corner between the driver side front door rear post and window sill. That's a near-priceless feeling. Also, I've been coming over my friend's house since 4th grade and seeing that car in that garage doing nothing, being put to the sideline to less-worthy cars such as an MR2, a C5 Corvette, an E30 BMW, and even most recently a Civic! With the amount of times I've gone over this friend's house, it's practically ingrained in my childhood memories and it NEEDS to be made living again. The story of it, according to my friends' mom (wife of the owner) is that the dad purchased it in '88 in Arkansas meaning it's not a snow-belt car, with full black paint, running, and in generally solid condition. The reason it looks like it does is that a friend wanted a job for his son, so he asked the dad of my friend. The kid started to sand down the bits but then just quit middle of the way as the dad was rewiring the engine. The dad lost his will and it's just been sitting in the garage ever since, always with plans for it but never actually going anywhere. However, it's been babied. The mom complains about the car taking the spot for her minivan when she had groceries, a baby, and other such things. The Bel Air always came first, she said. Anyway, pictures of the thing. Here's a link to a photobucket album of all of them: Photobucket album. These are are just some summary pictures. All original interior. Under the black covers is upholstery from 1955. A quick pic of the underside. Floor panels we patched by a professional body shop in Arkansas, he said. Trunk and missing trim pieces. It's all there. Engine. I don't remember what kind it is. Some of you may be able to tell. It's not the original, though, but it did run just last year and strongly. It's just a week or two's worth of work from being a turnkey really. More underside pictures in the album. Also, I went over the car with a magnet and the only bondo was right at the front just behind the headlights. Panels are all original. With these pictures and info, does the estimate for 3000 still stand? Does it go up? Thanks in advance, everyone.
Well...the V8 is a plus...is it a 4 speed or 3 speed...that's a plus over automatic. Looks like some brake work has been done. Did they go with disc on the front. Jersey plates in the trunk..hmm...double check for rust. Sounds like you may have this covered already. Original type spare probably means it's somewhat of a low mileage car. Exhaust looks good..ujoint looks new.. Top of the line 4 door sedan. I'd say it's worth it....just get them to help you fire it up..??
The transmission is not standard- it's a Jetrag J21 or something. 4 speed manual. The 3 speed manual was tossed. Still, TexasDart, what would you pay for it? I'm mostly trying to figure out the price of it- what it's worth. EDIT: It's a Muncie M21 wide ratio from a '69 Nova. I can have my choice between that or a 5 speed Getrag, but I'll be taking the Muncie if I buy it.
Sounds like you really want it and it looks pretty good. Get it and give her some love and most of all have fun!
its a little more complete and solid than i thought, 3000 sounds good...maybe start there, hell their long time friends.....get a break. you could always sell or trade the extras you get if their not needed it seams like its a tune up and a bit of maintenance from running. you will need to get the reprinted shop manuel, and you can also purchase reprinted wiring diagrams for these cars, which will help in just getting it running again, or trouble shooting good score....good luck
Wow that's a better car than it first appeared. Stuff like the dual reservoir brakes and solid floors and recently running engine help a lot. Given your history with the car I think 3-4 is reasonable. Talk it over with the owners since they're friends and see whatcha can do without hurting feelings, you never really know. good luck
I'd probably do the 4 grand if they will help you get it fired up...so that you can see that it really will move and stop under it's own power. Sounds like you want it and would be a cool driver as is.
$2000 max. Get it running and enjoy it. The trunk above the wheel wells doesn't look bad from the pics. Be sure to check there inside the trunk. We call it the magic circle around here. Free online manuals Here... http://www.55-57chevys.com/coccc/index2.html Interesting manual site here too. http://www.tocmp.com/
It looks like all the glass, trim, and body panels are in good shape. It seems to very complete (except the wrong steering wheel). I think 3,500 would be a good buy for the car, 55-57 are very easy cars to restore.
Since you're a college kid you're prolly smart enough to add numbers. Look at the price of 2 doors and the price of 4 doors. Look at how much you can buy the 2D conversion parts for Smart money says cruise it for a couple years til the bugs are worked out, then instead of painting it as a 4 door, do a 2 door conversion. The work doesn't appear anywhere near as bad as you'd think. Might be a good long range goal, possibly something to aim for after graduation but slowly accumulate parts over the next few years. good luck
I would give 2k tops for it if i was into 4 doors.As others have said its possible to convert it to a tudor ,but its a pretty involved process ,plus good solid tudor doors are getting hard to come buy.They do make new tudor doors for about $900 a piece i think.If i were you i would pass and look for a tudor to build ,if you have your heart set on a 55 .If you leave it as a 4 door and restore it ,you'll have a****** of a time getting your money back out of it.Not trying to piss on your parade ,but thats the way it is .4 doors dont bring near as much as tudors ,especially in Tri-5's.I would look around on the net and see what Tri-5's are going for in different conditions ,and compare the prices from 4 door to tudor .You may not like what you see.Decent presentable looking ready to drive tudor Tri-5's are bringing 15k to 20k easy even in this***** economy and moredoor Tri-5's bring 5k to 10k in the same shape from what i have seen lately .Its your call ,but if you could find a tudor to build up ,you would be ahead of the game from the start Tudors are out there you just have to look around .It costs just as much to fix up a 4 door as a tudor .The difference in price is when you go to sell it .Good luck on your quest grasshopper.Sorry Shifty , i dont know why i qouted what you said ,i hit the wrong key (its been a long day)...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars...d=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65:13|39:1|240:1318 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars...d=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65:13|39:1|240:1318
Take the Muncie over the Getrag. Also the M-21 is close ratio. The M-20 is wide ratio. If you can have it running as soon as you say and wire it and be driving the car this summer, then I think it's worth the 4 grand. As stated earlier you CAN change it to a 2 door if you want.The only way you'll find out which engine it is , is to get the numbers off the right front edge of the block on the pad near the waterpump.Heads may have been changed as well and those numbers are inside the valve covers. No matter what, if you go over the car real well and think it's worth it, then buy it and get to work on it WHEN you have time.
Ok, the engine is actually some random 305 Small Block. From owner: "Engine is a low buck, low compression 305, couple thousand miles, rebuilt stock 305 heads. Holley 650 vacuum secondary 4 barrel, HEI,*****py Weiand single plane manifold, 78 Corvette cam. Runs good, no low end torque." "Engine #2 is a 1991 350 TPI, aluminum heads, roller cam, Edelbrock performer intake, minus the TPI, about 50,000 miles. (I was told)"
Sounding less good, but still not bad. 2 door sedan doors to do the conversion can be bought brand new for $1200/pair and decent used ones are around if you look. You can double the value of the car with the time and money invested in changing it, well worth it as a project to do later on. I like 55 Chevys and I think this one has definite potential, but $4k is more than I'd be willing to spend, and I'm from Wisconsin, the land of rust. In my opinion, a "good deal" would be $2500 and "fair market" would be maybe $3200. The 4 speed******* is cool, but neither of those engines is particularly valueable. Certainly not worth paying a big premium for a '91 350 that's supposed to be good.
Here's the deal if you want the car. Go to the wife/mother that isnt real happy because the 55 is taking her minivans parking place. Put the bug in her ear that you want to buy the car, but you only have 2500 or very little more. She will then begin too nag the husban. Then she will cut**** off till the car is sold. Take between 2500 and 3000 cash with you. Get a number in your head that you want to pay 0-3000. I wouldnt go no more than 3000. Do your best and haggle back and forth some dont just jump on the first few numbers. If he thinks your jackin him around show him some cash not all of it just some. Make sure the wife is there to see you have the money. Give them your best price if he doesnt like it then leave. As long as she knows you have the money you will own that car in no time. It does work Ive done it. Just my two cents
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