Type of welder used when doing frame/chassis work

What kind of welder does everyone use when building their frame/chassis? (mig, tig stick, other) If you want to add this in, what brand/model of welder do you use as well? (Lincoln, Hobart, Miller, other)

 

Low buck used Lincoln 225 for anything thicker than 3/8ths. Hobart Handler for the thin stuff.

 

I did mine with a Hobart Handler as well, and it was more than enough. Great welder for the money too.

 

mig welder - miller 175

 

MIG 220 or TIG 220. No problem using a 110, but perform a fillet fracture destructive test right there with the machine, on the same material thickness as the frame, before using it. If you can set the 110 machine to pass the test, then your Gold, if not, then get a 220. Carl Hagan

 

fillet fracture destructive test???

Please explain to those of us who are unedgimicated

Thanks, Gary

 

Lincon welder 110/ stick welder.....

 

You cant go wrong with a 220 stick welder for chassis work sorry im old school

 

30 year old Craftsman 225 amp buzz box,210 Miller MIG setup and Smith welding and cutting oxy/act torchs.

 

This explains testing procedures: http://files.aws.org/educators/Library/0000/000633.ppt

 

Here is what I found
"Fillet weld fracture testing is performed in accordance with various welding specifications. The purpose of this test is to check the weld for soundness (complete fusion, and no major weld anomalies.) The sample is folded over the weld side of the fillet until the sample folds flat upon itself or failure occurs. The fracture is inspected for complete joint fusion and/or weld anomalies."

So weld to pieces together and bend them in half, and if the weld holds your good.

I am going to use my Licnolin 135 to tack everything together then borrow a bigger unit (or buy) to finish weld.

 

just got me a new miller 180. can't wait to fire it up on the 37 frame build.

 

I've always had good luck with construction adhesive.

 

Lincoln 175 220v mig machine. I have also used a 220 buzzbox before I got the mig.

 

Lincoln persicion 275 for tig and stick , Lincoln 200 for mig. They work well and I like the color red.

 

Millermatic 220v MIG with 0.030 wire for chassis work and 0.023 for sheet metal, but I lust for the new Miller Diversion TIG for doing sheet metal and aluminum.

 

Lincoln Migpak 100 for thinner stuff, and a Lincoln PowerMig 200 for the rest.

 

lincoln mig 175 110-quick/small stuff
lincoln tig 175 220-nicer big stuff
miller mig 220-quick big stuff
miller tig dynasty 200-best machine i have!

 

I used a 220 MIG for the chassis. For the bodywork I'm currently using a 110 MIG. The 220 will work for bodywork, but I have the 110 so I use it.

 

do you use duct tape while the adhesive dries?

 

Is it an ok idea to run a 220V welder off an extension cord off a dryer 220 outlet?

 

Lincoln 220 buzz box lincoln 110 mig and can us a miller mig 220 if needed and grate stuff for the hole HAHAHAHAHA

 

My main welder is my Millermatic 35, it's an older unit, probably about like a newer 180 (220v), but is a very forgiving machine. It's fine on sheetmetal with .030 wire, and just as fine turned up to weld 3/16th with the same .030 wire.

It's not as user-friendly as the newer units, but has a fantastic arc control, I haven't fired up my Miller Vintage in 4 or 5 years, because the 35 just keeps calling me back

 

Depends on how long the cord is, and how long the original run of wire is in your house. you can find the "voltage drop per foot" for 10ga wire 9assume you have 10ga in your dryer circuit) with a quick google search, then compare to your machines operating voltage range.

I/e if the machine specs are to run at 200v+, and say you drop 1v per foot (just an example) and you have 210 volts at your current plug, then you can only reliably run a 10 foot extension cord-making sure it's at least the same gauge.

A lot of people get in trouble when they try to convert thier 14-16ga 110 extension cords, for 220 use...sure, you have three wires there, but the smaller ga wire has more resistance per foot, so heat builds in the extension due to more amperage draw in the extension, things melt, catch fire, etc...long before the breaker trips, because the breaker is there to protect the wire that it's connected to...not anything further down the line..like smaller wire, appliances, etc.

 

If you're gonna use a 220 wire welder, take a class at your local vo-tech or community college. You can do it, but you gotta know how, takes several passes. Myself, I just like the sparks and noise of an old buzz box, it gives be a good feeling.

 

Ha Ha, the funny thing is there are a few who are thinking........"Yea, Me too"

 

Everytime one of these posts come up, I begin to wonder if I'm missing something.

Someone posted they use a Lincoln 225 on thicker then 3/8 inch, and a Hobart Handeler 110 on anything lighter. Really, 3/8"? You welding snow plow frames, cause those are the only 3/8" thick frames I've ever seen? And, isn't 5/16" really pushing a 110 welder?

Then another guy posted that if you use a 220 wire welder you need to take a class because you need to make several passes to get a good weld???? I think you 2 guys should get together....

Ah, what do I know, I use my Miller 251 with .035 wire for nearly everything, 20 guage through 1/2", except aluminum. For the aluminum I use my Miller 210 (a 220 volt machine) because it has the spool gun attachment. Pushing the .035 aluminum wire through the 12' whip on the 251 machine is a pita. The only thing I use my old buzz box lincoln for any more is when I weld cast iron, other wise it sits under the bench in the back room. Its all Ok though, here at my little welding shop, 90% of the stuff I do is fix crap welds other people do. Gene

 

That all sounds logical and straight forward, but I'm wondering how a guy that is working with 3/16" or better in his home garage can take his sample and make a cold book fold without some seriously heavy tooling?

 

I have an Airco 460 amp TIG outfit that I use for everything, thin, thick, aluminum, mag, copper. Go to the "The Wade model A coupe" build, look at his welds and then tell me that you can do better with anything else except a TIG.

Rex

 

Miller Synchrowave 351 for me.