I am looking find some sort of documentation of a DoIt-Yourself method to get a chevy s-10 frame under a 54 chevy body. I was told this is the easiest and cheapest way to get my chevy low on the floor. Im thinking airbags.
Do a search..been a ton of threads on here an this very subject. I have a s10 front clip on my '49 and would not do it again... I would go MII and bag that! Just use the frame you have and modify it. My .02. .
My buddy just finished up my frame (s10 front clip and rear axle) picking it up sunday. I have a few pics already, but nothing that really "documents" how to do it. I dont suggest doing it if you plan on doing steelies. Seeings how we used 2wd s10 chassis it would be overall around 2'' to narrow. Which would mean it would need 1'' spacers per wheel to look correct. However I am running 20x8.5'' rims which will make it fit and look perfect were a 14/15x7/7.5 look very awkward.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72871 KISS Less work to modify the stock front end, unless you are a master metal worker. In which case, you wouldn't be asking us for advice.
hey now, we cant jump this guy that fast. We dont know the car's status. Could be like my 50 chevy. I got it with the front suspension completely gutted, no rear axle, and the stock frame was cut off behind the back seat area. play nice fellas.
Heres a pic of a 48 fleetline with an S-10 front clip etc. Its got steelies yet doesn't look to awkward to me.
Theres a great big thread on here from a month ago on S10 Chassis, tells you which ones to use and how to fit various different shells on top etc etc . search and ye shall find...
don't change frames. just stub it. 53 and 54 chevys are completely boxed frames about 5" tall s-10s have a C- channel frame about 5.5" tall. there is about 3" difference in frame width. they splice fairly well w/ a little fab work and you keep all but 4 body mounts. In my opinion the legit front ends on these cars suck and for a daily driver are dangerous in modern traffic.
Unless your current frame and floor is rotted...mustang II the front end with bags and use the stock frame. I have done a 49 Chevy fleetline onto a S10 frame, but mine was so rotted to start with, it would have been just as much work to fix it.
correct me if im wrong, but didnt he use spacers or do a different offset than a s10? Maybe stock rear or 4wd s10 rear axle with front spacers. I can put up pictures of my 50, sitting 20 feet away from me with stock s10 wheels, s10 front clip, and 2wd s10 rear axle and my wheels tuck way in. I can provide pics if you wish, the proof is in the puddin. Explain please?
My 54 is stock...well...a....we notched the arms to get it low. Or I think there is a Lowering spindle for it, Then Bag it.....The stock 54 suspension is a good setup...
The 48 Fleetiine looks like it has some fairly deep reverse rims on it. I'd say first lets have a bit of a decent intro and Then. WCrot can maybe show us some photos of what he is up against. Having fought body alignment issues with both subframe jobs and frame swaps in the past I wouldn't suggest a frame swap unless there was no frame or not enough frame there. If the stock frame is good I'd go with the M-II maybe even the bolt in one. That with dropped spindles would get the car on the ground. Blocks and a C notch or bags and 4 link in the back with a C notch would get it on the ground in the back. If it had no frame and a bad floor I think I would be looking at G body sedans for a frame and floorboard to do a full swap with.
Whoever told you that's the easiest way either lied or doesn't know shit. The front suspension UNBOLTS from the stock frame, making changes relatively EASY on that frame - there are weld in and bolt in kits for Mustang-II deals, or you can put a Jaguar XJ6 suspension under it - those unbolt complete, one hole matches the Chevy frame, the rest is a matter of welding one piece into each side of the Jag crossmember to bolt to the other holes in the Chevy frame. Hell, I don't know why someone hasn't come up with a piece that bolts to both sides to make it a total bolt-on swap yet. There are at least half a dozen rearends that will bolt to the stock rear springs, with lowering blocks will get you down, there are bolt in replacement springs, bolt in kits with new perches, and I've read several times that certain Dodge Truck 4x4 front springs will also bolt to the stock perches and lower the rear. More than 4 or 5 inches and you have to clearance the floor for the top of the pumpkin. If you don't mind welding spring perches on, there's at least half a dozen more rearends that will fit the car. But the S10 and the stock frame are both leaf springs, to get it really low means engineering a coil or airbag system that is no easier in either frame. Or running blocks so tall they're not particularly safe. Then with the S10 frame you have to figure out how to hang the bumpers, how to make the front clip fit over the wide frame "mouth" and the radiator support fit around the steering box, figure out how to reattach the inner fenders to the frame, engineer all new body to frame mounts, alter the floors so the body sits level on the S10 frame, etc etc etc. RacerRick here on the HAMB has done an S10 frame swap and even he doesn't think he'd do it again, but you can PM him for more info on his swap.
newyorker....that stuff can be fun sometimes though. Not trying to piss you off, just trying to open your mind a bit. I think a tube chassis looks better, and if using the right materials...a hell of a lot stronger than a stock frame. Re-mounting bumpers can be a pain, but put enough thought into it and you could probably come up with a better looking, stronger bumper mount than stock. And really how hard is it to alter wheel base, fab up body mounts, level and square up a body on a chassis? As for a G-Body....they are the same hub to hub width, same spindles, a-arms, ect ect. So that is not a better solution than a s10. In the end, if you dont like your stock frame and dont want to alter it....dont touch it. Live with it or sell your ride.
Well guys, I knew I would hear "Search" because this is my first post but there has been alot of helpful info in this thread. The frame on the car is not rotted at all. It does have some surface rust but nothing that would structurall damaged the frame, it only makes getting the bolts out harder. I asked this question to better understand the situation. And now it is all clear to me on what needs to be done. I'll use the stock frame. I'm building the car to be a daily driver so I thought it would save some money and time to just buy the s-10 frame. I have searched through the threads but I did not find aneough specific info. to really help me understand what path to take. Thanks for your help. If there are more constructive comments I would love to hear them.
You hit the nail on the head with that statement! The stock chassis will work fine. If you were to build a chassis, build an entire one, front to back.
Who cares if theres a spacer or a different offset wheel than the factory offset S-10 wheel! The fact is that that is a S-10 clip and the wheels look good to me.
Even if he did run a different offest wheel upfront it still works out ok though.. Chad the way your making it sound is that everyone that runs a S-10 clip runs stock S-10 wheels therefore it wont work. Rustynewyorker is right on with his statement about it being easier.. When it comes time for you to start mounting the radiator support, trying to put in inner fenders, routing your steering linkage and mounting bumpers let us know how easy it is. Yes it can be done but in my opinion a S-10 stubbed front looks like ass compared to a the stock front. Again in my opinion, you have a frame built from the firewall back, why not build and entire frame instead of putting that big bulky thing up front thats going to provide you with nothing but hassle. You should go ahead and post some pics up of your chassis for these guys to see. Justin did a damn good job on the frame rails and the notch etc. but I would never had done the S-10 clip. Just my 2 cents...
Here is a pic of my suspension in the rough stages. Just started with S-10 drop spindles and built the crossmember, control arms etc.. Works out great got less than $100 into it, I get 13" of lift and I can still mount everthing without a problem.. And it wasnt that hard at all to do..
Ive built and more improtantly acctually drove 53s&54s tens of thosands of miles for years. I looked at doing an S-10 graft and it was a nothing fits situation. The stock front end drives awesome when in good condition and all it needs is a disk brake kit and gas shocks to be a 80MPH all day car. If you must theres tons of Mustang2 almost bolt in kits. If I was going to fab one myself Chopd 54s design loks killer and simple using junk yard components, nice job Chopd54.
Jody, I can agree that the s10 frame is bulky and kinda ugly. I have plenty of time to decide if I want to redo the front. I still have the stock suspensionless 1950 frame (from front to rear seat area) as well. As of right now, it is really not priority to dick with the chassis. Sheetmetal is more of a concern, rust isnt a good look for it.
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