beads like that are not as hard to get as one might think. If you have a tight fit and proper settings and know how to roll back into your weld you will get the nice dime on dime look
i guess , i didnt think much of it . till this thread .. and thanks again guys for the comments ,,.. so punkabilly . you got it down too ?
Are you planning to cut out a portion of the back seat, or did you build your notch to clear it? BTW are those gold 100 spokes?
the body will be cut to fit . we tried to keep the suspension as low and tight as possible , so cutting will be minimal ... good eye on the rims .. not our chose once again but its a customers car ..
no, double down is the shop i work for . its owned by brothers robert(lead fabricator) and julio (painter)... my name is danny ..im the welder/fabricator..we also do collision repair,custom body,exhaust and cats, basically we do it all ...951-928-5545... we are located in riverside county
I agree,nice work but its just spot welded together. And that my friends aint hard at all. When i see all the "oh your welds are amazing" in different post i start to wonder how many really bad welded shit there is oute on the streets
I wouldn't have commented if i couldn't back it up hahaha, in all seriousness tho that is a great lookin' setup and great work too boot, you should be proud.
sorry my friend but no its not just spot welded ,its a continous finger on the trigger the whole time(hahahaha) weld .
hahahahaha ...you know that little box in your member page that keeps track of recent vistors ...it jumped from 16 to 60 over night ...hahahaha..should change the forum from the h.a.m.b to the perves
cant wait to see the pics when you get up front.....very educational thread here.....thanks for the share. i have a 53 chevy club coupe i am working on.
it is not tack welded, he ran full beads. If you look in certain areas you can see where his stop/start areas are.
In trying to figure out how you were doing it, I guessed that stops and starts on a continuous bead was the way you did it too. VERY nice work! I used to work in an industrial environment so I was around a lot of welding and they used to say that welders made good dancers because both require the person to have good rhythm. Are you a dancer too? hahaha
I'm going to be the "devil's advocate" for a minute and pry about your technique a little more. Don't take it the wrong way. Not implying anything is wrong with anything. In fact it looks fantastic. Just trying to learn here. Looking at these pictures below, all is clear about the direction you are going. No problem. Understand that and I agree it's pretty obvious. What I'm NOT understanding about your technique that you're saying is NOT an "on the trigger off the trigger" (triggering/pulsing) technique is that between every little "coin/roll" there is oxidation. And on the top of each "coin/roll" there is little dot/dimple where it appears you are moving in and out of the puddle. This would mean the wire would have to stop/pulse. The dimples and the oxidation are especially evident in the lower picture. How does this occur if you are not trigger/pulse welding? Again, don't take me the wrong way, just trying to figure out how you're getting this result with your finger keeping the wire feeding 100% of the time. Only good intentions by these questions, I promise. Bitchin' lookin' MIG welds and the only way I seem to be able to accomplish these are by pulsing. My continuous beads, rather dragging or pushing, have a much different shape/appearance to them with full penitration.
if you do pulse them with the trigger(not saying that you did)...what affect structurally would it have on the weld? george
on a mig you are not "hot" right from the get go, so if in fact you "pulsed" all the way thru your weld you would have some cold fusion per say
I think the main thing that is causing the brown oxidation around each puddle is the heat, i have seen this happen on welds i have done a little while after i have completed them, a good way of seeing the amount of heat pushed into the materials is in the pictures above that show the inside plate of the notch, not only did the heat come through but the mark is actually wider than the bead itself and appears as though it almost came through the metal completely. This usually happens in my experience when the heat is cranked way up on a strong welder and flows super smooth.
. . . at least across the top, I can see little dimples in the center of each little "dime" . . . that would lead me to believe what you have there is a stitch weld, not a continuous bead
i kinda have to agree with you on this one, the more i look at the top the more i can see areas where the weld puddle didn't "flow" into the next...which would lead me to believe it was a ZAP...ZAP...ZAP motion. at least for the top
This is exactly what I've been pointing out, in too many words. This is why I keep questioning it to make sure I'm reading the technique right. It's beautiful looking regardless, but it would be even MORE amazing if it really is continuous and I REALLY want to learn how to run a bead like that if that's the case. I'm not an expert by any means, but have been dabbling with MIG for a long time and always looking for new techniques. Only looking to improve my skills, and that's why I keep asking...
the only way i think i have any chance on proving my self is a damn video clip with 3 cameras ..one on me ,one on the spool , one behind a hood ...but i bet you guys will question it still ..i give up on this
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