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Front radius rods morphed into batwings

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by brianangus, Mar 14, 2009.

  1. This post is not for all, and may not please the pure "traditionalists". But---it does solve a huge problem on dropped axle front ends. Many of you will have found out that when you run a 4" dropped front axle, the damn tie rod and the drag link (if you are running a Vega cross steer set-up) will want to run right thru the side of the radius rods. The only cure for this is to heat and bend the stock steering arms, so as to position the draglink and tie rod either above or below the steering arms----or--burn them off and buy a set of deep drop bolt on steering arms. If you buy a 4 bar kit or a hairpin radius rod kit, then the drag link and tie rod can run between the upper and lower bars with no interferance. On my very first build about 25 years ago, I solved the problem by burning the ends off the radius rod and welding a 3/16" plate to each side as shown in the attached model/drawing. (Note--The single plate picture is an "in process" shot to show what it looks like when half finished. You must weld both plates on as shown in the left hand picture, so that a rubber bushed rod end fits between the two plates). This allowed me to "craft" a set of hairpin radius rods with urethane bushings on adjustable threaded studs on the ends to fit between the blue plates. It was easy, it used what I had, it solved the tie rod and drag link clearance issue, and it enabled me to adjust the kingpin caster angle.---and best of all---it was a CHEAP SOLUTION.---Brian
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2009
  2. X38
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 17,498

    X38
    Member

    That's how they sell 'em here Brian!
     
  3. I'm not 100% sure what you mean.--Here in North america they sell you a pair of folded 3/16" plates with an upper and lower bushing in them.--This post was for the fabricators a**** us who would rather do a bit of creative work and save some money, rather than rushing off to buy a premade "kit".
     
  4. X38
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 17,498

    X38
    Member

    I understand what you're doing and it's a good idea. Here, the rego people don't like clevises on hairpins so the front joints have to be bushed. What is marketed/allowed are the cast stainless Deuce Factory style batwings and hairpins with 4 bar type bushes to go in them. What you are advocating would be fine for the fabricators a**** us in that scenario.
     
  5. grits
    Joined: Mar 9, 2006
    Posts: 3,180

    grits
    Member

    Top of the morning to you Brian,
    If you recall, we spoke on the phone last week about this same problem I was having with my steering set up. I went with your suggestion on the deep drop steering arms and it solved the problem two fold. Not only did it allow my linkage to clear the bones but also will allow me to drop the front end a little more, I've atached a few pictures for you so you can see what we were talking about.
    Thanks again Brian for the phone call and the information.
    Gary
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Here's an alternate solution the the problem. This front end is on a '32 woody roadster pickup built by Kirk Duquett at the Woodieworks.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Yes, Gr***hopper---There are many ways---
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,390

    Andy
    Member

    I made new ends for some Model A bones.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 14, 2009
  9. HotRod31
    Joined: Mar 3, 2003
    Posts: 426

    HotRod31
    Member

    This is what I came up with for mine...........

    later, Mark
     

    Attached Files:

  10. Go look at B***' Model A thread for an elegant solution.
     

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