LOL, yeah I did grind off the 'Toy' markings,you wouldnt believe the people that dont know what it is.Hey im pretty impressed at what these guys do on here with their ol bangers,That crank gives me a Woody
hey kuztom its not for sale its going on the b motor in my tee rp behind it love your sons project real cool a true hot rod kustom and practable to boot must get out to see it sometime
dirtynails the problem is with the light cast caseing which will become part of the torktube dont think it will take a sharp bang like a deep pothole
They are a better unit that highly expensive Fairey OD but although The housing has few odd shapes to it, have you considered making a bigger heavier housing with a provison for the torque ball? You could rename it 'the large laycock De normanville', AKA as the big...never mind.
Loving the look of those SU's, Manyolcars. Very tidy set-up. That is some crank, Keven. I hope I never have to replace mine, but if I do...
HAHA, Small world ,some how I thought it was you, my son actually took that photo at MCM,I was in Ashburton today ,bumped into a guy who knows you,he just purchased an "A" Coupe from up North ,selling his Tudor.Hey ,you going to the swapmeet this weeken at Kustoms ,you more than welcome to shoot on out to my place ,but only in ya OL Banger
Do you have any other pics of your SU setup? What is the size (throat dia) of the SU's? Do you have a pic of the manifold before you installed it? Thanks, Mike
Is this what you want? This was before it was finished. The carbs are 1 3/4 on the back side. No choke and it doesnt need one, it fires off instantly
What are you going to use for air horns or air cleaners? I have thought about making some long tubes because most of what I can find are short, Maybe the short ones work the best bit I like the looks of tbe longer ones.
So you are not using any balancing tube between the carbs. How does this affect tuning? Any challenges there or just read the plugs every so often? Mike
You set the length of the horns by testing the performance of the car ,either on a dyno or road test ( very long process). We used to make a plate with the hole for the venturi and the damper vent and with a tube and peice of rubber hose go shorter or longer to get the best result. Then the tubes were made to suit from exhaust tube with a spun mouth to get a bell shape. .I had some chromed once but it didn't make the car go any better..
manyolcars, Have you had any problems with vapor lock or over heating the carbs? It looks to me that they are very close to the header tubes. I dig the set up. I'm anxious to here some performance results. What model SU carbs are they? How much do they flow (CFM) ? .
Does anyone have suggestions on running an air filter or an oil bath on a B carb? A Airmazes don't fit and I don't think there's enough meat to ream them out. The "stock" B filters are near impossible to find and the one I found was $250. I've been trying to find mandrel bent 2 1/8 i.d. tube with a tight 180 degree bend to set a filter out front, but with no luck. I'm cheap anybody got any ideas? Pics? Thanks for your time. Luke
they look like 1.75" (by going off the header pipe od as reference). Usually found on Volvo's and Jaguars. there also is a 2" variant also found on Jags and Roller's.
There's a K&N filter that's a straight clamp screw-on for B carb necks. I have one, buried somewhere. Will try to get to it later this afternoon for the number -- BUT -- Most Model A'ers get along fine with no air filter (y'know Henry didn't put one on 'em) even an Air Maze, and lots of folks say they run too rich with a filter, even a K&N. Fearless
i found to run the "maze" type , i had to strip all the paper off & use it for a rock guard . personal preference , but i didnt like em ................... steve
interesting point here what would happen if all hambers came to the party here and lent gear to get this project off the ground would it be a racehorse looking like a camel or would we really have something?
Two-part Banger question: 1) Why do you almost NEVER see hp numbers quoted for any type of built four banger? You will sometimes see percentage gains advertised in relation to certain parts, but when it comes to actual horsepower there's nothing out there... 2) That said, does anyone have any hp numbers (current or historical) for any of the RAJO T heads? Cris
Cris- if you go to some of the 4 banger sites you will find some hp info. Look at Hot four Hot fours or Secrets of Speed and find Ron Kelly's or Steve Serr's? web sites. One reason you don't see much actual hp info is that you double the hp and only get up to 80. Not a real big deal in a sbc world! But, we love em!
SU's like that,on angle are known as 'Semi Down draft' and those do look like early volvo units. you can run them v close to the exhaust( have a look at any morris engine) without too many problems although modern fuel with it's oxygentors causes more than a few problems with vapuor lock and other symptoms.
I'm Clark, Darren is the one with the slow Banger. I thought you'd remember my name after taking all my money for the Columbia! Bonneville.... Now theres a thought....
Pretty sure the SU's on my old Volvo Amazon had a heat shield between them and the header. It was just a simple plate that bolted between the carb mouth and the inlet.
yep,just a bit of a deflector ,I have vague memories of removing one for some reason. If you're gunna carry a gun you better make it a biggun! ha ha
I never knew of any other type of SU?? I thought that they all came that way (minus the very early "sloper" style carbs.
Rajo's (depending on the variety) usually gauranteed to double the HP out put, and almost all of the early ones were made to utilize a stock T carb. A real BB (dual spark, cross flow) probably does a little better. Per your question on "HP Increase" numbers, it doesn't exist, for one legally. I recently purchased one of Charlie Yapp's "Leapin Lizard" heads for my noq postponed speedster project. He did some dyno testing on the A head and has some pretty good data. One of the main problem on quoting solid numbers on T's and A's is that so many of the cars are in poor to crap running condition, that bolting a piece of speed equipment to it makes only a marginal difference to the performance. I talked to Charlie and to people that bought the head, the consensus was that head needed to be bolted onto an engine that had been modified (Cam, carb, ignition). Most people bolted it up to a stock set up with coils and it ran like shit.
The Jalopy Journal
