yes it is dangerous to your health. but i can tell u 95% of the people who paint with it do not do it in a down draft booth with a fresh air setup. and probably have no access to one. u my friend, sound like u were "senistized" to urethane paint and probably wont be able to spray it again. everyone has there different tolerances.
sorry u had problems. but u should have tried it out first. its a ss pearl/metallic. ss metallic is a pain to spray. throw in that its "flattened" and its a double pain in the ass. those results are from improper gun set up and lack of experience in spraying a ss paint. spraying a flat clear vs. a flatenned ss metallic/pearl is NOT a good comparison. the clear will not look as bad as a botched ss job if the base is layed down right.
heres is a pic of the omni single stage that hotrodflatzs uses without the flattner. it can come out good when sprayed correctly, if it had flattner in it, the results still would have been the same. that was my 3rd ss metallic. they are such a pain in the ass and hate spraying them.
So, after 93 posts the general consensus is......I don't know, half of those who have sprayed it seem to be happy and the other half had a terrible time. Any pros who used this stuff weighing in? I'm an ameteur and am gettin the impression I should stay away from S/S paints. A friend of mine suggested Nason from DuPont, any good/bad stories about this one? I'm assuming they offer a flattening agent. Also, how do you know how much flattener to add? Is it trial and error on a test panel? Please forgive my ignorance, just tryin to learn a little before I spend the $.
I used good ppg black paint then added all the other necessities and a flattener and it turned out like shit and was not cheap. I wish I had just used a semi flat paint to begin with. The finish was real blotchy shinney and dull, shiney and dull etc. I waited till the next morning hit it with scotchbrite to get a uniform sheen and then had El Robbo go to town with the stipe brush, now it looks good. I want to do my Edsel in the hot rod flats dark burgundy pearl color but I just don't know after reading all of the posts on the subject. I think with someone experienced with their product the end result would have been better. And I should note that my paint job in the sedan was probably user/temp related as much as bad product.
2 years ago my best friend painted his truck that copper pearl color and his truck has held up great. it is a daily that is parked outside year round... also I think he told me he paid like $175 for a gallon? not too bad if you ask me. that said I don't really like the flat black but I spose I am a little biased on that to begin with. if it really is that cheap I say fuck it, spray it.
doesnt suck. its that people dont realize that it takes skill to spray a flattened single stage. and even more to spray a flattend metallic/pearl.
2 years old. car is garaged. washes like a regular paint. no powdering or other issues. make sure you have enough paint. no "touching up" as referred to in earlier post. I think it's a high quality paint that performs just as claimed.
That's exactly what we did. I wanted a red oxide primer look but didn't like the Hot Rod Flatz version. We mixed some Omni to get the right color, added flatner and ended up with this;
I painted Fast Eddie's T-bucket here on the hamb with HRF old gold metalic and it turned out great. I've painted several cars and definitely not a pro, maybe I just had beginners luck with HRF. -Kirk
If it were me, I'd simply use a real base/clear product and add flattening agent to the clear, then you can custom-tune the amount of gloss it will have (by spraying test cards before hand, trying different mixes in the clear, wait until they setup and record the results). I used to shoot Sikkens for a living, they had a good flattener for their clear. And unless you're very experienced, I wouldn't recommend ever spraying a metalic or pearl color in a single stage, it's tough to pull off.
I've used it twice now, it's not too bad, but it's thin, wants to dry fast, and easy to get stripes if you or your gun ain't right. If you want a daily driver paint job on the cheap side, it works. If you want world class paint, this ain't it.
Ive painted a couple things flat black and my personal favorite yet kind of pricey is the DuPont hot hues black. also a good bit easier to take car of compared to my other epoxy primers and such.
Havent see any one talking about JOHN DEERE BLITZ BLACK ENAMEL It is easy to apply you can even touch it up with a brush. It is also easy to maintain, remove grease and oil with a light wipe of varsol.
Slow and Low63. Does this mean we cant use JOHN DEERE BLITZ BLACK because it is not an automotive product or just because it is a cheaper superior product that anyone can apply.
If its cheaper and superior to Hot Rod Flatz, why hasn't anyone mentioned it? Are you the only one that knows of this secret? The real truth is that JDBB is an uncatalized enamel in its most common form. It is prone to chalking and fading like any other cheap enamel. It can't be painted over, its a pain to remove, and it takes forever to dry. Not very different than Rust-o-leum.
The real truth is that JDBB is an uncatalized enamel in its most common form. It is prone to chalking and fading like any other cheap enamel. It can't be painted over, its a pain to remove, and it takes forever to dry. Not very different than Rust-o-leum.[/QUOTE] Are you sure it's not lacquer? And it does not get chalky, I sold my car, but there are cars here 5 or 6 years old that look as good as the day they were shot. And we have painted over it and one of my buddies even shot single stage clear over his.
Its definitely not lacquer. Call yourself luck to spray over and not have compatability issues. When a catalized paint is shot over an uncatalized paint, most often the solvents will lift the substrate right up. There's obviously exceptions to the rule as with everything.
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