I think this is the new stuff I've heard about: http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._Permatex_High_Performance_Thread_Sealant.htm http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/thread_compounds.htm Here's loctite page: http://www.loctiteproducts.com/
Dude, a few drops after 60 hours at 15psi & you're throwing it out. First, few flathead cooling systems run at 15psi - yours may - but 60 hours? All that with no heating and cooling cycles, which will set the permatex somewhat. Obviously, your choice and I commend you for your attention to detail, but OCD may be in your blood!
The second time I tried Permatex 2 it started dripping in less than 10 hours under pressure. I thought this time I used a better method of installation. This was also after I had let it set up for over 24 hrs before I added any coolant. This tells me that Permatex 2 is sort of touchy on how it is applied. I have 48 of these things to put in and I don't want to deal with touchy. I know 15 psi is a little high for a cooling system but it still isn't all that much pressure. If 15 psi finds a leak in 10 hours, I am sure 8 psi would find one as well, it would just take longer. -Dave
Try it not using coolant...Coolant seeps ....just plain water doesent...add water solubale oil for rust prevention...
Update: I finished my testing with the Permatex Ultra Copper sealant and both studs stood up to over 140 hours at 15psi and 4 heating and cooling cycles (150,180, 200 and 200F). when I disassembled my test, both studs were bone dry. Then I was thinking the studs would be impossible to take out, but they were not. Neither one could be removed by hand but they both came loose easily with a water pump pliers. The one with sealant only on the stud came out easier because there was much less sealant on the far end of the stud inside the block. All the sealant was hard (like silicone)and sort of shredded but most of it came out with the stud. As of yesterday I have all the studs back in the block with the Ultra Copper. I made spacers for each stud so I could put on the washer and nut and pull them tight against the threads while they cure. This will ensure that all the studs are perpendicular to the block and that all the threads are in contact before I start torquing the heads down. So far so good. Its not over till its over tho. I will update you when I start the engine again -Dave
The short story is: Yes it did. The longer story is that after I installed all the studs the way I explained above, I removed the spacers and checked all the studs for tightness. About 6 studs could be turned by hand, so I cleaned off the old sealant and resealed them with the same stuff. But this time I just put the head gasket and the head on and hand tightened all the nuts down. I left it this way overnight to cure and then torqued the heads down. I filled the engine with coolant and ran the engine thru the 3 heat/cool/torque cycles I noticed that 3 studs on one side and 1 on the other were leaking slightly so I removed the nuts and checked the studs and they seemed just as tight. I still could not rotate them with my bare hand. This time I used a small amout of permatex 2 on the washer and the fine threads under the nut to seal up the last little drip. I know this may affect my torque value, but I know the permatex does not fully harden so I should be ok. I just refilled the engine with coolant yesterday, ran the engine up to temp and rechecked the studs I repaired. No leakage at all. Hope this answers your question -Dave
I also use the same method and never had any sealing problem.Permatex is hard to beat and no waiting and by the time you got it torqued down fire it up and go!
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