Check your float levels and make sure the carbs are in sync with each other. Disconnect the linkage that conects the two carbs. Adjust the carbs so that it is idling were you want. Make sure the idle mixture screws are adjusted right. Once it is idling smooth, re connect the linkage and adjust it so that they both work together. It is hard to do with out one of these. Are you running a fuel pump? Gravity feed from the stock tank may be giving you trouble with the dual carb set up. What carbs are you running? 97's, 81's?
I would add just use the idle stop screw on one carburetor and adjust linkage so that both are drawing the same amount,. What I mean is when you get it idling take a reading from the carburetor the that still has the idle stop and set the other or 2 nd carburetor until it draws the same using a Uni-syn or what ever type of meter you have. (old school SU guys use a piece of hose in the air flow and listen until both sound the same) It is a lot easier if you don't try to use both throttle stop screws.
Crazydaddyo, I am running 97's with an Evan manifold, 6 volt a fuel pump and a fuel regulator set at 3. I'll give your direction a shot. Just Plain Bill, On Monday, I am borrowing up a uni-sync device from a builder friend. That should help get me set up in the right direction. Since I got it started I also switched out the stock coil to a 6 volt Mallory DSM. The friend who freshened the motor said it's got a 4" bore, a progressive cam (he thought it was Winfield) and the head is about 8:1. I also have a Mallory ignition but I've had no luck trying to get this dizzy timed right to fire the motor. I am taking it once step at a time now that I've got it started. Gaters
Hey guys, I found this on another thread and blew it up so that I could get some detail. I know there isn't much T talk on here, but I thought this was totaly bitchin. Looks like a home made dual intake. What kind of carb is the rear one? Do you think there was any trouble with getting them synced and running right?
If this doesn't make you want one... This came today, I paid last thursday. The Atlantic must have gotten smaller or something! Thanks a bunch for the shirt a fine prize at twice the price! Put me down for one from next year too.
Charlotte swap meet score: A very nice set of BLC 904A headlights. No dents or dings, marker light intact, light surface rust in a few places - some might call that "patina", but I don't know her. The condition would be more obvious if I could take a decent pic...
Is that a rear view mirror version? Fill me in on the event. Nevermind. I'm an idiot and didn't read my Monthly Banger thread through.
looks like a kerosene carb set up.you start the engine on petrol then when it's hot you switch over to Kero. With the high price of Kero these days it's not really worth it.
Spent the day taking out the old engine in my Tudor. When I fired the new engine up I now have radiator leaks I didn't have before and then after the engine warmed up the exhaust became white with a sweet smell! It appears the repaired 1935 "SPEEDHEAD" didn't hold. Is Brumfield still in business?
It appears the repaired 1935 "SPEEDHEAD" didn't hold. bummer on the head . take it apart & see if the headgasket blew out . i think larry is still selling heads , but i would first see if anyone has one in stock as he is normally behind ................ steve
Needs a 7.50 whitewall in the back with a reverse eye spring up front. hopefully this will be my summer to cruise. Also i have the pieces to return it to a sport coupe with a 3'' chop.
Very cool, nice to hear it will be a sport coupe again one day. Are you planning to leave the aprons on? Just to give you an idea, my coupe is chopped three inches, 7.00's in the rear and no lowering front or back.
I meant to reply to this but the thread moved so quickly I forgot about it. My dad had this same problem and cured it just last week. He is running my old cut down stock flywheel which has been been fitted to the coupe when I had it, fitted to the roadster and is now back into the coupe! It never caused a problem ever until one day the ring gear shifted. At the time we didn't realise what had happened and we went through everything from clutch to excessive end float! Eventually realised that it was the ring gear, took the flywheel out again and banged the ring gear back into position and tacked welded it back in place. This lasted for while but the welds broke and the ring gear shifted again and again and again... My dad used to regualry bang it back on through the starter hole. It got so bad that you would only get one or two starts from it before it would move again. What we realised is that welding won't work because the flywheel is cast and the weld won't take. The flywheel came out yet again last week but this time he was prepared with a new ring gear. The old ring gear was really bad in that it almost fall into place with no effort at all, compared to the new one which would never go on not even if you tried to bang it on. After heating the new gear cherry red it went on without a hitch. I believe your ring gear came from Belchers the same as mine? Only real solution is to change it.
"Just to give you an idea, my coupe is chopped three inches, 7.00's in the rear and no lowering front or back." The 3 inches looks perfect very nice sport coupe.
Damn Slam! That looks great. Excellent patina. Clark, my ring-gear isn't quite that loose but I'll be stripping it down to look at it after the season. Yup...got it from Belchers, though I'm not sure we can blame them this time, I think lots of suppliers ended up with them.
ok so i am tring to drop the front of my 31 slant i have read the post from Elrod and p.m.ed a few guys and i am getting some mixed info here is my plan 32-34 front axle stock a wishbone with the spacers 32-34 perches 31 spindles 32-34 brakes reversed eye spring with a few leaves removed stock A shocks now comes the part that is throwing me... i have to use the 32-34 brake actuators to lign up with the perches?? OR can i just use the stock spring perch actuator and spindles, bolt the 32-34 backing plates on and just make a bridge spacer to attach the actuater to the stock spring perch (and not buy the fricking expensive 32 perches) ok now if that doesn't confuse you i have a few toung twisters that i can type out thanks for the help tom
i have a '31 tudor . i dropped the front with a reversed eye posie with 2 leafs on the bottom . tried 3 , but to soft , 2 seems ok . look careful as the tip of the fender is black & decieving in 1st pic . i painted the fenders all black now , but gives you an idea . did the same in the rear . mostly all stock parts .............. steve
Beings the 32-36 axle has a drop to it (factory drop) you have to use the 32-34 perch pins to raise the actuators up...otherwise they will be at an angle.
Hi I have problem with my model a starter, its have no power to it even on 12 volt. Cant see any thing wrong with it inside. Do toy guys have a clue? Im have it on a B engine and going to have 6 volt in the car. Need some advice!
On my aluminum flywheels I use a "Scotch Key" (might not be the right name but similar concept) The first one had spring pins pressed into holes in the joint or parting line between the flywheel outer diameter and the starter ring gear. The ones that I have done myself I drilled and tapped for 1/4 28 set screws at this joint and tapped the holes slightly shallow so the set screws would tighten up without going all the way through and used loctite. I used 5 or 6, cannot remember. The ones I did myself were on REM's and the ring gear just slipped after installation.
steve, what size tire are you running i was going to run a 550 16 wire in the front and a 750 18 in the rear also i was going to run a t spring in the rear thanks tom
tom , i have 600x16 firestones on front & 750x16 firestones on rear . kelsey hayes on all 4 . i didnt get the results i wanted on the "T" spring i wanted . but others have done well with it . give it a try for sure . pull leafs untill it sits where you want it , then see how soft it is . my front was to soft so i moved 1 spring back on top . also be carefull taking the rear apart . i used a spring spreader & 2 "C" clamps . put in a new center bolt also . i used a grade 8 on one set of mine . works as well as stock . need help just ask ................. steve
Hey Tom The key is the kingpins, If you use "A" kingpins you can use "A" actuators & "A" perches with "extentions" Like Elrod made. If You use 33-34 kingpins you need to use 33-34 actuators & I think you can still use "A" perches with the "extentions". I hope that is the info you are looking for. Of course it would look the best with all 33-34 parts.
i here you on the spring thing. I was taught very early on(my dad and i restore model a's) to fear and respect the rear spring. I got bit a few years back when the spreader came loose and it crushed my right middle finger into little bits.(is real flat and much more dramatic to flick someone off with that finger) the thing is we are so dedicated to stock restoring that we don't dabble in mixing up parts. This is actually my first "stock" a build(with the exception of a B motored Riley headed 32 axle reversed eye) everything else was later v8 stuff bolted to an a frame thanks for the info on your setup. i think mine will looks simular to your setup just with black walls tk
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