Hot Rods 33 ford axle 31 spindle/spring perch no fit together.. what am i doing wrong

ok guys and girls,
i am putting a 32-34 axle under my model A. i am using a stock wishbone stock 31 spindles stock 31 spring perches and stock steering arms/drag link. i cant even put the spring on because the steering arm is hitting the perch... do i have to heat and bend the***** out of it.
Elrod.. Chris,,, crazydaddyio anyone give me some pointers
i thought this was supposed to be easy
maybe i need to go the route of 32 stuff
oh and here are the pics
tom

 

looks as tho the problem is caused by the drop in the axle putting the arm too high. try 34 spindles and perches or heat and bend the a steering arm up enough to clear tie rod and perch

 

I don't think the drop is contributing to this problem, it's the distance between the perch boss and the kingpin boss. Even if the drop was the same, the perch would still be in the path of the arms arc. Get out the hot wrench and "relocate" the steering arm a bit.

 

looking at your pic again you mite have a prob with tierod hitting the bottom of frame when you hit a bump also

 

thats what i was thinking
i am using the mechanical brakes also and the steering drag link will intersect the brake actuator
i am guessing i need to heat the arms and bend them down
or get 33/34 perches and spindles and actuators and then this thisn will bot together easly
and i did add the spacer to make up the 1/4 gap in the wishbone
tk

 

the drop is what i am going for. i want it to be lowered using all stock components. i am also using a reversed eye spring and 12" 32-34 brakes
tk

 

I'll say this then duck for cover. Why would you want to use mechanical brakes? They were OK (?) "back in the day" but there is no place for them on todays roads being used in everyday traffic.
The balls in your court.

Frank

 

everything on this car will be 36 and older
its just an erra that i am shooting for, and honestly how much brake do you need to skid a tire that has a contact patch the size of a pop can
i have been driving Model A's my whole life and never had a problem. i can lock all 4 wheels up no problem. The shoes are re-arched and everything new and adjusted. Hell these ar the new and improved 12" brakes not like those*****py old 11" A brakes
tk

 

Rather than think about the problem, I would just "32" everything in sight, use '32-4 spindles, perches, and brakes. The '32 -4 brakes function like A with the same critical areas and rebuild, but give you good iron drums without the $$$****ociated with those on A's and 12" diameter, so it'll be like power brakes...

 

like power brakes.. i like it
have you seen the self adjuster kit from FLAT HEAD TED that Mac sells
part number 18-2051-TQ in the mac book/on line
anyone know anything about that
tk

 

I think that is largely a kludge to avoid repairing the roller track. I have floater instructions from old brake manuals...this was a problem back then too. Proper repair on A-B brakes required fixing those tracks, uneconomical when fixing a used car...they either hammered up the tracks or made the shoes into floaters by reworking parts.
Bratto's sells a repair kit for tracks...tracks can also be hard surface welded and ground back to level.

 

What I am saying...I am leery of modifications that are made not to improve but to avoid making an actual repair. I would try to get parts back to spec before modifying the system...
The Model A world is full of procedures like this...car does not work because original stuff is worn and either not repaired or repaired with bad chinese parts...therefore, original system is no good and you must buy the modification kit "to make the car driveable"...fixxit right before you worry about modifying!

 

Gotta use 32-34 spindles and 32-34 perchpins. The spindles arm will "flow" with the axle, and the perch pins line up your mechanical brake hardware. If you try using the model A parts you can probably make it work....but it won't be "easy"