1929 chevy full sheet metal kit car

I would first determine the condition of the sills, which support everything. If the wood is good and solid then I would probably stay with the original flooring.

If the sills are questionable, /wood-rot, then replace with either steel or new wood.

 

Hey nash.. I went and looked at your new pictures in your albums. You got some nice projects and quality work. I got all the parts for the 28 except the body and frame done at the media blaster and back at my casa. Whoda thunk that 80 year old metal could look so good. I haven't worked on it for a while except hammering on the fenders. And they are starting to come around to my way of thinking. So I might be able to seal coat the metal and start minimal body work on everything. I also got my brothers corvette back at my house and trying to get 49 year old injection to run is quite the challenge. With any luck this week take it for a spin. Wish I could keep it but it belongs to my nephew. You never know he's not much of a gear head and I worry about what he will do to it...ghost

 

Posting this, maybe you can use it whomever comes across it.

The complete setup in my previous post is angled at 30 or more , with a distance of 8 inches between center of u joints.

I figure I will cut a replacement shaft to 10 inch so that my u joint angles are around 24 degress.

 

Hey Ghost; It is cold here today. Took the Hotrod Nash to Lowes for some lumber, popped the rear corner of tonneau and stood the timpers upright out the back. Quite a sight! Got a few looks from the shoppers as I drove away...............
It's nice (for your nephew) to have somebody help him get that 'vette running..

 

Here is a couple of pic's of the 29 I got this weekend,has all the sheet metal doors etc. need to make metal framming instead of wood, so if anyone has drawings or measurements I could get that would be helpful. needs alittle work.
Tony

 

Yes! of course... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=318111

 

thanks for the info. I' also looking for plans or mesurement to replace the wood framing to metal in the cab, any help will be welcome. is there anyone in the sacramento area were I could look at ther project, don't mind driving alittle thnanks tony

 

Thank you very much valkokir, that's just the information I needed.

 

well thanks........He, he, you're being humble, I get it done, one way or another, but you got me beat on the fabricating................

 

I'm in this thread now... Just traded for a 30' Chevy coupe No wood but mostly complete

 

Great thread going here. I just started on a 31 Chevy 5w Coupe that has been sitting in a gulley for 40 years. Here is a little progress after about 10hrs in the shop.

 

WOW... Nice job and welcome to the club...ghost

 

I just saw this 29 chevy on ebay today it has 29,00 miles on it,some great pictures you mite want to check out item 360143384813 the car is in calif. not far from sacramento
Tony

 

I saw it, too- nice resto on a low mileage car!

 

Yep that car is nice too nice for me to own. because of what I would, Awww never mind. but I sure would like to drive it just once. Just to bump the mileage up to 31.500 you know just a short test ride...ghost

 

And.............some peole, including my wife, ask why do I want (another) car. Answer is OBVIOUS to me.

 

I have a question, I see on some post (btt) what does that stand for?
Thanks
Tony

 

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Any one know how to properly remove this ball stud?? Looks like im going to need to heat and bend the arm for clearance.

 

thanks Tony

 

It's peened in place. Drill the end of the peen off and press it out out.

 

Just an update on my '31 coupe turned roadster. Been doing doing some work on it. Stripped my frame, had it sand blasted, added a '66 chevelle rearend, and started putting my body back together. Got this buddy of mine who does some glass work and is an excellent fabricator. Gave him a nice TT in exchange for some work on my body. It's coming along good.Got rid of the fiberglass cowl section and used a metal one along with a metal dash. Had to fab the windshield area. Hang the doors, and do all the floor sub-structure. No wood!!! We kept the fiberglass rear quarters. They will be glassed on to the rear wheel well panels. Doors, front cowl, rumble seat are metal '31.

I'm getting ready to start boxing my frame and installing the 303 olds I'll be running in it. Joe.

 

Very nice it looks like it's all coming together for you. But what's with the bend on the rear leaf springs are they stock like that? Plus I like the body jig. Pretty smart...ghost

 

No they didn't come like that. It's just part of the work previously done by whoever screwed it up before to lower it. The front part of the spring was also bent and the had to cut into the bottom of the frame to get clearance. Same as they cut into the front crossmember to allow the axle to clear. I'm having to get rid of all of this and start over. Have my eye on a set of original uncut rear springs. I already replaced the front. Joe

 

Man that had to be a bone jarring ride, sitting on the frame like that. Well at least your giving it another chance to be a real car again. Keep up the good work...ghost

 

Do yourself a favor and go to Chassis Engineering and but their universal rear spring kit with the lowered spring set I installed on my 31 and I think it sits pretty good, pic's on here somewhere in this trread

 

hey guys im putting together a 29 tudor if yall have any good pics of the placing of sunvisor and top tack board i would love to see them i cant seem to get my stuff to line up and look right or if im doin it wrong let me know THANKS

 

He, he, he.... Just another example of what people that want a low ride will do to just for that on-the-cheap, loooow look.

Should have dropped the axle, left the springs alone.