I did a search and looked for pictures, but could not find anything. I am trying to install my Lokar Hi-tech throttle cable into my firewall so I can hook up my new spoon-style gas pedal. I'm having a problem, however, as I can't figure out how to get it through the firewall. The end that hooks on the pedal does not come off, and is too big for the nut to fit around. The only option I see is to thread the cable all the way out of it's sleeve and then all the way back through. The problem with that is my throttle cable is 168" long. Any suggestions? Thanks!
you have to pull the cable out of the braided line, drill a hole line up to the tip of your pedal. install your braided line on your bracket and firewall. then install the end of the cable on your pedal and run it through the braided line from the inside of the car. your should be good!! i just did mine and that's how i did it. Ian
Thanx guys!! almost there! all i got left is wire the car and the plumbing and of course small things here and there!! Ian
Just a dumb reminder since I sent a customer a new braided line yesterday and have done it myself. Make sure to ground the engine to the frame. Starting the car without loves to make the throttle cable a ground. Poof! Fried cable.
heh, that's a good point. You'll have to remove the inner cable from the outer sleeve anyways before you trim the outer sleeve to length...
Thanks guys, looks like I have my job to do for tonight figured out. It is no typo, it is a 14 foot long throttle cable for a 1964 chevy rear-engine pickup which can be seen here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=323820&highlight=disaster One day I think I'll likely go for a throttle-by-wire setup like newer cars have for simplicity, but this worked last year with the eliminator pedal, so I'm sure it'll be even better with the spoon.
MUDDPILE!! dude you couldnt figure out the throttle cable and you build the craziest engine set up??? Your set up is RAD and very different!! in a good way, WELL DONE!! ian
You should make sure you have a pretty strong set of throttle return springs on the carburetor, just in case that extra-long cable gets hung up or sticky inside the sleeve for some reason. Leave a slight "S" bend in the cable sleeve at the engine to give some slack for engine movement.
Good advice! That's exactly what happened to mine. Cable burned through next to the pedal. Fortunately it broke while the car was in my garage. My engine is now grounded to the frame and body with welding cable.
Two sets of carb return springs on a soon-to-be dual quad carter/offy combo is what will keep me from driving through the back of someone, but you're right, that cable makes for a stiff pedal. 4 wheel power disc sure doesn't hurt either, as a "Just in case".
So you're changing from Lokar's eliminator floor mount pedal to a thru-firewall pedal? Any way you could go from cable to hard linkage back to cable? Would that make the pedal less stiff? I was just thinking about the cable going from the pedal to the front of the floor, then a rod on a bell crank or something under the floor, then back to cable for the final run to the carb. just a thought...
Thanks for the help everyone, I got it all working tonight. I had the eliminator before, but it didn't work that well. The cable needed a loop at the firewall, the pedal was near impossible to adjust, and the carb never opened fully for me. This spoon setup works great. As I fed the cable back through, I sprayed it with silicone spray, now you'd never know the cable was 14' long. Feels just like the stock pedal on my 72 pickup.
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