I am putting a 460 ford motor in my next project and I am having a couple of issues. The oil filter and alternator are too lo and touch the frame second issue the motor is out of a 77 lincoln and has emissions equipment on it, but as a rookie with these ford motors I have no idea what needs to be done to make it a dirty, stinky, neighbour annoying piece of love i am sure you guys can help thanks, Diz
If you can find a friendly boneyard that will let you look around, there are probably 460 or 429 alternator brackets that you can use to change the location. Try a Wix 51335 oil filter for clearance, or run a remote filter. Hope this helps with the interference problems. Toss the smog junk, then get out the Summit, Jegs, Blue Thunder, and Ford Racing catalogs...let your wallet be your guide.
everybody here has gotten rid of the cars in the yard because last year the price of steel was real good so it is hard to come by, as for the smog equipment, i don't know what to take off n ot familiar with these and since i am wallet challenged at the moment i am not sure what to get or if i can find a cheap way around it thanks
I will tell you what I can do to help you solve all your problems . First crate the Ford 460 up and send it to me . I will fix all the problems with it and to show you how bad that Ford BB can be , I will install it into my 55 Ford and take you for a ride and show you how much fun it is to raise Hell in your neighborhood ! See we are very friendly to the "FNG" guys !
Take off all the EGR crap, should be a carb spacer with a vacumn pot thing on the back and replace it with a regular carb spacer. And plug all the vacumn ports except for two, one for the modlator valve on the tranny, and one for your vacumn advance on the distributor. It should have D3VE heads on it, they are not bad but keep your eye out for D0VE heads and stay away from D2VE. Another tip with the 460's, put 429 timing gears in it, huge power gains!
hey jim i got a better idea just give me that old junker ford of yours and i'll drop in my 460 in it and as a thank you for all the work you gave me fixing the ford, i'll give you a ride in my new 55 lol
I had a '69 Lincoln in my car for a while. If you can find one they have closed chamber heads (High compersion) and screw in rocker studs from the factory. Mine ran very well.
Start with the smog pump and brackets, and work your way up. It mostly involves removing, and capping vacuum lines. If you have access to a '77 Lincoln shop, or repair manual, all the smog associated pieces and parts will be outlined for you in the text. Take a look at the other Ford engine families for ideas about what to do with the alternator. Takes a bunch of trial and error, and getting the pulleys to line up properly can be a pain. Making your own, or modifying existing brackets are also options...just takes patience and some "eyeball" engineering. Fully understand about the flat wallet...mine's always that way! All you can do is try to find used hot rod parts, for your engine in the H.A.M.B. classifieds, swapmeets, CL, and Ebay. The only 385 series BBF I have experience with was a 429CJ in a light weight drag car, but my friend has a 460, smog motor, in a '54 Ford pickup that runs strong. He used a Crane split lift split duration street cam, Edelbrock performer intake and 600 cfm carb, and a set of swapmeet truck headers... that was about it. He used the stock Duraspark ignition system, and says it does the job. All the parts can be had used, except for the cam...wouldn't recommend a used one. Anyhow, my buddy's street engine sounds healthy and will rattle the neighbors windows. A great dress-up item for these engines is the factory 429CJ and SCJ finned aluminum valve covers. They are usually pricey, but maybe you can find a set you can afford. The usual Asian, chrome kits are around everywhere for cheap, but they kinda SUCK. Again, I hope my humble input helps and encourages you in some way. Enjoy your project...
I have a good Ole Y block in it now and drives well . I would love to have a 460 for my 55 Ford . My wallet has cob webs in it so I will keep the Y block for now . The 460 can be a real beast with tons of torque ! Do you know why they call that the 385 series engine ? BTW , what are you putting the 460 in ?
It depends on how far you want to get into the engine. There are certain emissions items that are no-brainers- replacing the thermostatic air cleaner assembly is one, keeping the PCV system is another. There are two major systems that are probably left on your engine- the Thermactor system (air injection) and the EGR valve. The Thermactor consists of the pump, hoses, (probably) a long hose or pipe running over the right side of the engine on top of the intake manifold (NOT the heater pipes), and a funny-shaped split pipe that bolts to the back of each cylinder head. You can remove all of this and use a small freeze plug from NAPA in the back of each head. The EGR valve is a bit more complicated. It's the large valve & spacer located under the carburetor. You can remove it...you will probably need to cap or remove a few vacuum lines and replace the gasket under the carb. You may need to use shorter carb studs as well. It's been a while since I've done this on a 460 & I may be forgetting something that needs to be plugged. One problem, though, in removing the EGR, is that you may find that the fuel mixture is no longer correct. You probably have a Motorcraft 4360 carb, which was used only on 460s, and, oddly enough, on certain AMC engines. It doesn't use a typical jet system; instead, there were only 3-4 sets of jets available, and metering rods were used (much like a Quadrajet) to adjust the mixture. None of this stuff is really available anymore, and many people get rid of the intake manifold & carb anyway. The bolt pattern for this carb is unique...no other carb fits it. There is still an adapter available from Trans-Dapt to put a regular Holley-pattern carb on the manifold, though. The only vacuum hoses you really need to keep are one for the distributor vacuum advance, one for the trans vacuum modulator (if any), the PCV hoses, & one for a brake booster, if any. If you are willing to go farther into the engine, I can list a few more things.
[If you are willing to go farther into the engine, I can list a few more things. [/QUOTE] I would like to know of some more ! I am trying to get one in a trade for some engines I have .
hey jim i am putting it in a 60 jeep willys pickup to cart around some parts and to haul cars out of old farmers fields lol
Why not just get a newer F100 to do that and everything will fit . Maybe look got one with a bad engine and do the swap . Just a thought !
I'm in the process of doing a low budjet swap in a f150 now from a 6cyl to a 460 out of 86 motorhome. It's low mileage and I didn't want to spend money on a cam kit. One must is to replace the timing gears and chain. I am taking out the factory plasitic crap that likes to disinegrate all thru your engine and installed a cloyes double roller straight up like the pre 1971's were timed. Also a 2" phleno carb spacer instead of the EGR plate, took off the twin A.I.R. pumps, and put on some chrome edelbrock valve covers after detailing the engine and clearcoating the Old Ford Blue paint. Looks pretty sharp for a Ford and I can't wait to hear it crank up(I'm more of a Chevy man) Mine had a Holley carb on it so it should be tuneable after removing a ton of unneeded crap. Its on the stand ready to install soon. Its also going to have 3" exhaust systm with chambered mufflers. Can't wait to pull my car trailer with it.
You can also use a Ford Van oil filter adapter which allows the filter to swing out of the way and will clear your frame or like someone else said a remote filter.There are plenty of cheap after market intakes on ebay and I suggest you get one of these and dump the cast iron intake.This eliminates the EGR orfice in the intake you now have.
I would like to know of some more ! I am trying to get one in a trade for some engines I have .[/QUOTE] Jim, There are 200,000 opinions on this, but here's mine, FWIW. In the following order, starting with a healthy, running stock smogger 460 ('73-'78 in cars, or '79-'86 in trucks; other years will vary from this): 1) Run a compression test or, better yet, a leakdown...no point in starting with a dead cylinder or two. 2) De-smog as described. 3) The Duraspark is a good distributor, but the advance curve rate is lazy as hell and the total timing isn't usually correct either. Recurve it if you are comfortable with doing so...or, you can buy one set up for your particular vehicle from Scott Johnston at Reincarnation Automotive http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html ;or if you have the $ use an MSD distributor which is easily adjustable. IMHO, the distributor recurve offers more bang-for-the-buck than just about anything else...if you start with a good Duraspark, it's almost free to recurve it, as long as you have patience. You will notice a difference both in seat-of-the-pants power, and throttle response, when you do this to a typical smogger 460. 4) Get rid of the exhaust manifolds & use long tube headers if possible...1 3/4 or 1 7/8" primaries, 36-38" long, with 3 or 3 1/2" collectors,...or whatever fits. 5) The stock cast iron intake is as good as anything to about 3600-3800 rpm. After that, go to the Performer- depending on how far you want to take the engine. A Performer RPM or RPM Air-Gap works better in many vehicles & with many combinations; the Weiand Stealth is also a good intake but needs a fair amount of camshaft duration to work at its best. Lots of guys have used 'em in 4x4s and loved them, but they really work better when you have at least 235-245 degrees of intake duration @.050. 6) Whatever carburetor is your choice...I personally like using the Holley 750 vacuum secondary, the 3310 with an electric choke fitted, or the 80508...tuned properly to suit...but they all work fairly well. 7) If you want to go internal...replace the timing set with a pre-'72 version for the 429 or 460. You can use a regular replacement set, or, my preference is the Ford Racing B429 set as it's fairly inexpensive, has nine settings, and is a well-made set. Some sets are cheaper, and some are not made as well. At any rate, the point is that '73-up sets have retarded timing; using the earlier set moves the powerband down by about 600-800 rpm which is helpful. 8) I don't generally make cam recommendations on the H.A.M.B., because invariably somebody comes along and says "My buddy's brother's dentist's dad uses Cam X and it works great and it's a lot better cam than what YOU said!" Maybe it does, and is it the exact same vehicle under the exact same conditions, with the exact same driver needs, too? Anyway, here are some guidelines...I can suggest a couple of cams if you let me know what it's going in. Scott Johnston also offers custom 460 cam packages pretty cheaply and is worth a call. And, of course, you may have plenty of experience choosing cams yourself. You have (MAX) about .535-.540 lift possible, with stock heads and shortblocks. With completely untouched heads, no porting,etc. I wouldn't normally go even this far, especially if it's being used for towing or hauling. Also, the exhaust port is the biggest problem to address with stock heads; I'd look at cams with about 8-10 degrees more duration (.050) on the exhaust side, perhaps a little more. 9) One possible thing to do is to swap D0VE heads in place of the (probably) D3VE heads. There are some valid reasons to do this, and some valid reasons not to do it. It is an easy way to raise compression on a later stock shortblock, from the stock 8.0 (actually about 7.7-7.8) to around 9.3-9.5. Depending on gas, this may be too high. Also, since D1VE blocks & later have a higher deck dimension (& therefore the piston sits lower "in the hole" at TDC), they don't have much quench. When you slap the early heads on, you get the higher compression but don't improve the quench...so you almost always need to use 93 octane gas, or better, or pick the cam very wisely to "bleed off" some cylinder pressure to make it work without detonation. If you are planning to do a complete rebuild there is no particular reason to hunt out early heads....and the price tag for them tends to be a bit high, often. 9A) A couple of things: C8VE, C9VE, & D0VE heads are all the same basic head; generally C8VE heads, as well as some C9 & D0 heads, are NOT drilled for Thermactor...no big deal unless you are porting them. The D3VE head is essentially the same head...with the same ports...but it has the seats "lowered" into the chamber, which is on average about 20cc larger than the earlier heads. It also has pedestal rockers, whereas the early heads have screw-in studs with non-adjustable rockers. Ford recommends that if you use better studs, along with guideplates, that you have the stud bosses milled down. Depending on your rocker choice, you don't necessarily need to do this. 9B) The pedestal rockers on the D3VE heads aren't quite as convenient, but there are some low-buck things that can be done to work with performance camshafts, and it is also possible to convert them...or, now, there are ADJUSTABLE pedestal rockers for the 460. A couple of years ago we spent two complete days on a dyno with a junkyard '77 460, testing various intake manifolds, headers, cams/valvetrain pieces, and so forth, to come up with inexpensive combinations...
nice to hear all these tips i figured you guys had the answers and Jim my motor is available for the right trade, I took it out of a running/driving lincoln just a month ago what are you trading for it? i may be interested and I am only 3 or 4 hours drive from you, I could also be interested in lots of other stuuf if anyone has something i need. i didn't plan on selling or trading it but who knows. I also got a edelbrock intake from a fellow hamber not long ago that goes ith it
hey homespun, ive heard someone suggest grinding down the "bump" inside the exhaust ports of D3 heads. is this something you would do or will it result in little or no gains?
It's a great idea & works well, usually 20+ hp worth for about 30-45 minutes work. I didn't mention it because I didn't want to address any porting issues at all at that stage (& because I'm long-winded enough already!). One thing to remember, though, is that the goal is to "knock down" the bump & smooth it out by a fair amount...but don't try to completely get rid of it...odds are that the novice will hit water. Failing that, the novice usually opens up the long-side turn or bowl too much, or widens it too much, and causes issues. There is a one-time subscription website run by Scott Johnston that is a good reference for the first-time 460 porter.
yeah, i did end up finding that site through 460ford.com. got a login i can use for the tech info archive?
Taking out the bump is fine but don't touch the floor of the exhaust. There already .0150low. There is a company in colorado that make stainless plates that bolt on the exhaust and gives you good HP. There are not a lot of head porters out there that know crap about Ford heads and can make them into a junk pile real fast.
We used to run the 429/460 in stock cars since they were way cheap and it was a claimer class. Look for pre-smog 429 parts, which bolt right onto the 460 if you want cleaner parts without all the plumbing holes to plug up. Bob
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