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what to wipe car with before painting?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by GARY T., Apr 21, 2009.

  1. GARY T.
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,985

    GARY T.
    Member
    from S.W. Pa

    what is the best thing to use to wipe a car down with before painting? I've heard of everything from alchohol to specially made stuff:confused:
     
  2. wildearp
    Joined: Oct 24, 2007
    Posts: 521

    wildearp
    Member
    from tucson, az

    PPG DX 330 Acryli-clean wax and grease remover, followed by a tack cloth. Don't use a chemical that will compromise your primer sealer.
     
  3. LOWDUG37
    Joined: Jan 31, 2007
    Posts: 1,006

    LOWDUG37
    Member

    I have not done alot of painting but I have always used wax & grease remover first and then go over the surface with a tack rag.I am sure there are some pros that have a different way.
     
  4. GARY T.
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,985

    GARY T.
    Member
    from S.W. Pa

    I thought the wax & grease remover was to use before sanding the old finish??
     
  5. bcook07
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 140

    bcook07
    Member
    from Illinois

    a mix of wd-40, armorall, and tireshine...

    wipe it down with wax and grease remover after sanding to get all the junk off the paint that you added by sanding.
     
  6. LUX BLUE
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 4,407

    LUX BLUE
    Alliance Vendor
    from AUSTIN,TX

    I really like final wash.

    it also gets rid of that "not-so-fresh" feeling.:D
     
  7. hoof22
    Joined: Jan 15, 2008
    Posts: 530

    hoof22
    Member Emeritus

    I used Dupont y-3919s "Prep-Sol" for 25+ years, and never had an issue with it...never got fish eyes, either...wipe it on wet, one small area at a time, then wipe it off with a dry cloth while it's still wet. It will remove anything in solution that way...make sure you give it enough time to dry out before topcoating, (like 20-30 minutes) tac it off, and shoot it...good luck with your paint job!
     
  8. for that too, use wax & grease remover with 2 clean rags. one to apply w&g remover, the other right behind it to wipe/clean it off. then the tag rag. try to always wipe off the w&g remover while it is still wet. it can leave some residue & piss you off later on. SLF
     
  9. lostforawhile
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 4,160

    lostforawhile
    Member

    prep sol, and make sure from the time you prep sol it to the time you shoot it,don't touch it with bare hands again.
     
  10. hotrod-Linkin
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 3,382

    hotrod-Linkin
    Member

    yep on the prepsol.
     

  11. You sir are very correct!
     
  12. publicenemy1925
    Joined: Feb 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,187

    publicenemy1925
    Member
    from OKC, OK

    PrepSol has always been good to me.
     
  13. PPG DX-330 is good stuff.
     
  14. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    Final wash is the way to go. Certain wax and grease removers can contain oils that may compromise your finish if they aren't completely removed during the wax on, wax off cycle.
     
  15. Glen
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 1,789

    Glen
    Member

    A lot of wax and grease removers are no longer legal for shops to use, especially spraying them out of a can...... we are now using this PPG product due to the last sentence in the description

    SWX350 H2O-So-Clean™ waterborne Pre-Cleaner
    H2O-So-Clean™ is a superior waterborne surface cleaner used for removing most contaminations including wax and grease, mold release agents and sanding dust. SWX350 is commonly referred to as simply "O-so-clean" thanks to its excellent cleaning ability. It is compliant in the most stringent VOC markets with an ultra low 0.21 VOC.
     
  16. Painter D
    Joined: Jan 9, 2009
    Posts: 277

    Painter D
    Member
    from DFW

    Agreed, been doing it that way for years without issue.
     
  17. havi
    Joined: Dec 30, 2008
    Posts: 1,876

    havi
    Member

    That's how I do it, too. all crevices with an air wand as well. tack cloth last thing before spraying
     
  18. demon452
    Joined: Dec 23, 2007
    Posts: 391

    demon452
    Member
    from Michigan

    Well first and foremost, what has been done to your ride??? Have you sanded, epoxy, filler surfacer blocked resealed with epoxy etc..... Geez let's start with the basics to see as to what part of the process you are at. PPG DX-330 works great with tac rags for the dust. What process are you at???
     
  19. VonDust
    Joined: Oct 6, 2008
    Posts: 246

    VonDust
    Member

    Spray-way Glass cleaner. It has enough alcohol in it where you don't have to wipe every bit of it away like the normal wax and grease removers out there. Finger prints are some of the most difficult contaminants to get rid of before you paint a car, alcohol is what cuts right through it. No fisheyes, no nothing. You can get it anywhere. If not that, then use regular Windex, its very similar as it evaporates away, and you don't have to worry much about any residue left on your work. I use this system all the time and we use it everyday at work at the body shop. Oh, paper towels work best as well.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2009
  20. Chaoticcustoms
    Joined: Sep 20, 2008
    Posts: 270

    Chaoticcustoms
    Member

    I like the windex idea, never tried it, pretty cool. We actually use comet with bleach, water and a grey scotch brite, thought it was the dumbest idea when i heard him tell me thats how he does it. I love this method, then before you paint, blow it reallygood with compressed air, then wipe with a damp cloth, blow, tack, blow, paint. Usually come out very clean and never a fish eye issue. Before that i just used wax and grease (330) But you cant beat comet for the price, not to mention you prep it while you clean it.
     
  21. VonDust
    Joined: Oct 6, 2008
    Posts: 246

    VonDust
    Member

    Exactly, when you get right down to it, you can't beat the basic soap and water treatmant (Windex, Comet, etc.). After all, with the new fandagled cleaners and wax&grease removers out there... you're probably puting more contaminants on your work rather than removing all of them.
     
  22. I use a little tide soap in my sanding water and wash the car and dry it then use the wax and grease remover reccomended by the paint manufacturer. Might not be right but been doing it since the mid 60s.
     
  23. lowrodderDon
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 257

    lowrodderDon
    BANNED

    DuPont 3812, always works for me, over 20 years now
     
  24. fordcragar
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 3,198

    fordcragar
    Member
    from Yakima WA.

    I always used enamel reducer as well. One of the good things about using 3812, you can also use it to reduce the color if you are using enamel. You don't have to buy something else.

    A lot of guys will use prep sol/wax and grease.
     
  25. Defisch
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 181

    Defisch
    Member
    from Hudson FL.

    RM 900 or 901 sometimes i 50/50 mix them when its hot 901 dries too fast.
     
  26. lowrodderDon
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 257

    lowrodderDon
    BANNED

    I never used 3812 in paint, only for cleaning. I've tried other enamel reducers for cleaning and they all failed.
     
  27. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,570

    BISHOP
    Member

    This is your answer right there.!!!
     
  28. yep,,,
    some barely soapy water to rinse then blow it with air,,, wipe with tack cloth,,,
    should be ready to go,,,,

    xoxox
    miss hootch
     
  29. GARY T.
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,985

    GARY T.
    Member
    from S.W. Pa

    I didn't want to use water,because I thought maybe the vinyl fender-welting wouldn't dry completly and cause problems
     
  30. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,570

    BISHOP
    Member

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