Hot Rods "may banger may not" may's monthly meeting

Great find Bobby. Now let's see that thing go 150+ .
.

 

Man, that's a good garage salin' buddy right there.

I got nothin' to report that's banger related. Flatty V8, now that's another story

 

Right???... I'll have to channel the spirit of Bob rufi, and wait for a 20 mph tail wind. LOL

 

Bobby,
The engine will remain stock, except for a Winfield carb I have. I had a mag and a head for the banger, but decided not to spend the $$$ on the 4 port, as the poor roadster will get a K-member, heavy 32 axle and 32 brakes, and a 221 in a year or 2. Then I'll need to look for a Model A pickup to dump this engine in I have always wanted a stock Model A pickup to beat around in!

This roadster MAY end up down at Bonneville....It can be your pit cruiser

 

What's a heavy 32 axle?

 

I have an Olds 3-Port Bob Giovanine gave me years ago. Uses a flat plate that bolts to the top of the head to seal the valve cover. I've seen pictures posted on this website of the engine in the old Giovanine-Spurgin lakes car. Looks to be the same type set-up. Bob didn't have the valve cover, which was a finned job unique to this car. If you were going to make something like that, I would be very interested!

 

Cool thread. Great info.

 

What a deal!!!

I have purchased an original Chev 2 port from JimmyB, and wonder if it runs the same valve cover as the olds 3 port?

If so .... I could be talked into a valve cover - what I'd like to see is one styled after the Nicson valve covers.

Theres a place out here that does the castings for Halibrand Q/C. I got a quote for a 2x2 intake for a F/H Caddy ...... $AUD7 1/2k - which is a 1/3 less in USD. cheaper if they owned the pattern

 

It's an axle that was used on (I think) 32 Fords only for the most part. It looks like the later 33-36 axle, but is a thicker casting all together. Mine is an undropped orriginal, and will remain that way under the car.
Heres a picture of a heavy axle under my Dads new 33

 

So how many guys are runnin a pair of 97's on an A or B engine???

I have about 150 miles or so on my B, so pulled the plugs to see what they look like. The front two had almost no color, almost white. The rear two had very little brown on em. Running to lean, so I grabbed a couple 97 cores I had laying around and bolted em on. It fired up and seems to run smoother and have better pickup. Ran it around a little and the plugs are a nice light brown. So, I guess I'll run the 97's if the engine seems to like em better. I would have thought that was too much carb??

 

Welcome Jeff, thats a good lookin A you have. I don't really think you'll ruin anything with the advance, these are a little different tht modern engine. Just stick the lever all the way up to start it (retard), and pull it down when you drive. The more you pull, the more you will advance it, meaning the more power it will make. Don't be affraid to pull it down all the way.
If you want to get away from it, just get a Mallory distributor or similar. Easy to find and install, and your off.

 

Gotta love a nice Model 40...

 

& I thought this month was going to another Ford fest haha Great find Bobby. That may actually be a Chev 3-port, the Clover leaf cast into the head is meant to signify it came from the Chev foundry, though I haven't seen the casting of an Olds. That head has already been modified to 1.5:1 rocker ratio with what looks to be Nash rockers. The exhaust ports don't look to have been ported looks like my standard head can you measure the inlet and exhaust ports and valves? I will compare them to my head. '25 blocks are the ones to have. Funny you should mention valve covers I started a pattern but fucked it so I made the water outlet pattern I need. My Uncle has a mill so I get good Aussie hardwood free I need to go get more wood so I can start again. There are at least 4 types of cast alloy covers that I have seen.
the water outlet, still working it.

May not be that difficult. PM me and I will put you in contact with a couple of people.

There is actually a few of those valve covers. I was told who cast those finned covers but can't think who at the moment will check my notes.
Ralph Schenck had one Bob Giovanine had one and that is what is used on the roadster he built in the 90s.

And I still have another for a future project. Yes the valve covers do fit, that foundry sounds promising.

 

Chris,

I should be so lucky. I have dual 97s but I am on a hard learning curve this month trying to get these worked out. Crazzydaddyo's been working with me over the phone, which I've really appreciated. More dinking around this weekend to see what I can straighten out on the carbs.

Good thing is, I was able to get my roadster registered this past month. I am waiting for a confirmation on my YOM 1929 plates from the DMV. Now I'll look to get it covered by Insurance with Grundy.

Gaters

 

Hey hey about that - you've got the G-S head, and a guy out here has the Bob Rufi head!!!!

 

66ELCAM wrote-
another quick question

Looking at a lot of water pumps you guys have, they have open tops, mine is completely enclosed with a little cover plate on top.

What you have is one of many "leakless" aftermarket water pumps. Most of these had a mechanical seal of some sort, rather than rings of packing compressed by a nut. If it doesn't leak-go with it. Back in the 50's we looked for these pumps rather than rebuild the Ford ones, which by that time most of the used Ford ones that we could find were clapped out.

Herb Kephart

 

Been a while since I posted, been busy with work and family. I have been working on the touring. Bought a rebuilt Zenith carb and pulled the gas tank out to clean and coat it. I can't wait to drive the tub this summer. I did a Google search the other day, and found a youtube video of a 30 coupe with Chev. tail lights at a hill climb in Arizona, and driving around his nieghborhood. This is the best sounding banger I have ever heard. Does anyone know what he is running in the engine? Chris the roadster looks great.

 

Well, I don't know if it is " THE " G-S Head, but Bob Gave me the whole set up for nothing, and I never met the man! Only spoke with him on the phone. He was a great guy, and a true pioneer of hot rodding.

 

drooling is what I am doing, speachless. wow. thanks.

 

What size jets are you running? I am putting two 97's on a A motor and worried they ain't gonna work out. It will be awhile before I fire up the engine so I'm all ears on trying to learn as much as possible about a duel 97 setup on a A motor.

 

I have one of those enclosed pumps as well. I thought it was early AR but I am not sure about that, especially since your running gear looks like a 30.

Wouldn't mind finding out either what it is from.

 

Jersey Boy, Thank you for the lead.
The engine is stuck and the head is severly cracked but for the money I can't complain. The head seems to have been the weak link the cooling jacket doesn't seem to be cracked. I need to take a better look in the morning. I oiled down the cylinders, hopefully I can get the engine freed up.

 

A diamond deal!

 

Thats kool petritl. Glad someone snagged it up. KOOL

 

A real Banger!, A 12# bang in fact.Prince bijey singh of bikaner, son of ganga singhji.

 

I put the finishing touches on my motor this weekend. The body is to come back home this week after paint.

Im running (2) 97's w/ a hot Model A cam ground (from iluvcarparts) for flathead.

 

since thier is talk about waterpumps, anyone have an idea on this one. I picked it up cheap cause it was different.

Looks like a full sealed unit.

 

I have been soaking the bores and deck in PB Blaster. I put a couple of inches of Diesel / ATF mix in the outer two bores. After sitting a day the pistons will move ~.020 of an inch. I suspect the valves are stuck.


Do you have any advise on freeing stuck valves?

 

Take the manifolds off and get some penetrating oil on the guides. Patience is a virtue.