Is this the mechanics fault???

You guys crack me up LOL
I managed to find a rear main seal at autozone of all places. Ive decided to pull the motor this weekend with a friend whos got a little more knowledge.

BTW-no "gold chains" here
I had to pawn them to pay for the trans lol

 

You might want to replace the timing chain and gears while you are in there also along with the front seal!

 

Yeah, then it's time to start the cycle over.

 

In the mechanics' defense, do "we" know that it's actually the rear seal?

MAYBE he........

jacked up the rear of the engine and warped the pan......

"Hung" the engine in the mounts, and bent one of the valve covers on the firewall.......


........?????

 

he deleted his post , so mine sounded dumb.

 

You were probably lucky to even get a mechanic to work on that on slim jim transmission to start with. I seriously doubt that it is the mechanics fault if the rear main seal on the motor is leaking. If you want to drive a 45 year old car you probably need to work on it yourself, unless you are rich.
V/8

 

Check the back of the valve covers first. If he let the engine hang on the front motor mounts while the transmission was out, it's possible the valve covers were resting on the firewall. If they got nudged out of place, there's your leak. Also, look for a cracked or broken oil pressure switch/sensor if it happens to be at the firewall end of the engine.
Jerry

 

When I was seventeen I worked in a garage and my boss and I rebuilt the auto trans on a '60 Buick. During this repair the Buick developed a bad coolant leak from the radiator, which I got the blame for, and rightfully so, because I mistook the bottom of the radiator for a cross-member, and that is where I placed the jack to lift the car. The radiator looked like an accordian before I realized what I was doing.

 

I can tell you exactly what happened, it's happened to me before a couple times.....

To take the tranny out, they supported the engine to prevent things breaking up top and reduce stress on the mounts. So they blocked it under the engine's oil pan.

In doing so, your right on the edge of outright failure pan gasket failed. Probably cracked due to being old and dry like the trans seal. Prior to that day, the gasket went decades without supporting the engine. Snug the bolts and hope for the best. Or change the pan gasket.

Not really anybody's fault. It's just what happens when you work on old cars. The mechanic did what he was supposed to

Good luck

 

True story, I am not @#$%ing you.
Lady comes in for an alignment. Guy checks it out and upsells the bad idler arm. Gets the car right and delivers it. Lady comes back the next day and complains that her car doesn't idle right since he put in that idler arm!

Every long time mechanic has a story of a failure. Thing is, they are responsible for all of those and a bunch they didn't do.
White collar stuff means that you can screw up and skate. Seen that TOO many times...

 

with the slim jim tranny i believe u have the 394 rocket motor which has a rope seal removing the trans and reinstalling it should not have any effect on the rear seal its just old and besides some even leak when new,its the nature of the beast,put some oil absorbent down and park over it unless u want to fix it,oh sometimes them rope seals are a real pain in the ass to fix and when done might still leak

 

hey tell him if he(the shop) works with you to fix the problem you will tell your friend and family of the good service you received IF they don't tell them you will tell everybody and you mean everybody just how bad they are and how they treat their customers. be nice about it and smile. this worked for me when my new big buck tv took a dump in only three days. i got the stores attenion and got a new tv.

 

You better identify the problem for sure and determine for sure what caused it before you go around trying to start mess with a guy's shop. That is the man's livelihood. For someone reason this makes me think of a slip and fall in the store.

 

These are the type of customers you hope never come back.....

 

well, that's an AWESOME answer to a complicated problem, ain't it.

"my peice of shit took a crap at no fault of Yours, but if You don't make it right, I am going to make it appear to be Your fault unless You take care of my whiny ass.. I am going to scheister You any way You look at it, all the while with this big stupid smile on my face, So bend over, I'm gonna fuck You either way, without the common goddamn courtesy of lubricant."

YOU are what is wrong with society today.


and to answer the question on Neoprene, there is a really kick ass company called "B.O.P. performance which has a nitrile seal which will work gangbusters. easier to replace than the rope seal by a mile, too.

 

Hey Lux...Ever since you put that Crushproof sticker on my car I can't get it to start

Oh and I found the "Secret" sticker...

 

which one?

and wiggle the wires to The extension cord that You have running to the battery charger, which I am sure is attached to the hemi on the stand.

then duck.

 

Stick to watching Oprah on your new plasma ,people like you made my day when they tried that crap on. Here in OZ it's called Criminal Defamation and the cops will actually do something about it.

 

----%%%% Don't know about anybody else but if you came in my joint and tried to pull this shit it would be a sure fire way to get your head caved in !! And what the fuck does a NEW BIG BUCK TV have to do with a leaky ass rear main seal on an old car ?? >>>>.

 

A very good reason for any good mechanic to never work on the older cars..
and one of the reasons i dont like to work on no one elses shit but mine.
Because people that think like this really do exist..and here is a prime example

His 45 year Old car cant be compaired to a 3 day old TV dude

Planet check

 

I'm going to give my barber a piece of my mind tomorrow. I got a haircut Saturday and over the weekend I sharted in some brand new Fruit of the Loom tighty whities.

 

hahahhha fuckin priceless

 

I would look at the things guys said before about the valve covers getting bent on the firewall, oil sender getting crushed, oil pan possibly damaged from a jack or stand.

If its not one of those things, it just goes with owning an old car.

I was working in a tune up and brake shop once and a guy comes in, gets the oil change special on his Caddy Seville, and leaves.

He comes back about 30 minutes later, engine knocking like hell. It had proper oil level, etc..
Why it was knocking, who knows. Maybe he was running 90wt in it to keep it quiet, or he drained out the oil, blew the motor, then filled it back up, or maybe it was its time to go..

Regardless of the reason, the guy is having a fit, and gets in the owner's face about it. The funniest thing I have heard a customer say comes flying out of his mouth...

"Whatcha do to my car?? Put some of that "slippery oil" in it???"

I couldn't stand around to hear what happened next..I was dying laughing.

 

Ain't that right. Modern plastic crap cars are far worse than 50 yr old beaters. You can't hardley unplug a harness connector, or take a hose off without damage. Repair one thing on some 150.000 POS, the customer blames you for everyting else that is wrong with their car. "You guys fixed my brakes, and now my radio doesn't work." We mechanics do screw up every now and then, but in this case it is probably bad luck. Don't really see the connection even if the flexplate was removed. Seems like you'd almost have to stick something in around the seal to mess it up.

 

I actually have an answer!

caddies are NOTORIOUS for this. if You don't put some oil in the filter before re-starting one, it can cavitate and the pump will NOT draw oil! the older the pump, the worse it gets.

freaky but true. the fix?

take the plate off the bottom of the oil pump, pack with either vaseline (i know, i know...) or lubriplate (again, I know) and spin the oil pump drive until it starts drinking again.

well, that and slippery oil will fuck it right up. You gotta use the not-so-slippery stuff.

 

bahahaha haha! you aint right man! and thats in a good way!

 

We hear that a lot in shops these days, It wasn't like that before you touched it.Don't blame the mechanic for a problem you most likely already had developing.

 

The rear main seal is part of the main bearing cap. There is no way that the Trans shop had anything to do with the oil leak. You would have to jar the crank so bad to wipe out the seal that the bearings and crank would most likely be toast before the seal. NOT HIS FAULT!!!!
Also you cannot replace the rear rope seal with the neopreme seal unless you pull the crank. And to pull the crank, you will have to pull the pistons and rods. The crank has a factory knurled surface which needs to be polished out a bit so as not to tear the new seal.
Good luck.

 

i've run into this problem before and the only explaination i can give for this happining is the rear main seal being of the waxed rope type got hard and if the engine happened to be rotated in the oppisite direction it normaly rotates it may cause the seal to unseat somewhere enough to cause a leak. however try running the car a while and see if it will reseat or seal before pulling the engine. before pulling the engine if the oil pan is easy to remove while in the car try to find a tool called a "sneaky pete" i belive a company KD tools made it. i used to use it back in the day and with a little patience it worked great. the lower halph of the seal is no problem to change with the bearing cap removed. the tool was for the upper half. you had to screw a t-handle tool with threads on it into the old seal and have someone rotate the engine by hand while you pulled on the tool and remove the seal. once the old seal was removed you inserted the new seal into a tool that looked like a wire mesh connected to a wire and it locked the seal so you can pull it around the crank shaft. be sure to lube the seal with engine oil to ease the installation. hope this helps. by the way i just had a call at my shop on a 52 chevy with a powerglide the customer blamed a mechanic at another shop for causing his engine to leak after a trans replacement. he was understanding after i calmed him down.

 

Never heard this before and I dont think its feasable as when you shut your engine down, its not uncommon for the engine to rotate backwards as one of the pistons may be coming up on compression and it comes back down a bit. I have rotated so many old engines when checking for top dead center when doing a distributer swap. Typically when you bump the starter for top dead center, it will go past and you manually rotate the engine backwards to get TDC on the harmonic balancer.
Never leaked after doing this. Also if this is an original seal, it will be so gummed up that it will be hard to get the grooves real clean for the new seat to slide into without pulling the crank. Just doing my Desoto Hemi and there was even black tarish crap stuck on the crank.
Im with the others that say it was leaking all along with the trans leak.