Yeah. I just used the 32 perches because I didn't have to make as long of extensions. Another bonus of the 32 perches is that it also raises the shock ball mount so that the shock arms have a better chance of working like they should.
Elrod, Was there that much of a size difference between the "A" and the '32 Perches? I dont have a stock '32 to compare them.
its about 2 inches i am doing the swap right now dont even mess around, get all 32-34 stuff and save yourself some headaches tk
Tom, I saw your post back in April and can see why the switch to '32-34 parts will make your life easier. Thanks for the info. I hope you will post some pics of how your swap comes out.
Well, good news today - I am going to do some chassis work on a guy's Model A here and in return I get the complete, rebuilt running gear including the 21" wheels. Combined with my 22 T Roadster body and a chassis I am now going to be able to build my roadster as a blend of the Multi Aldrich and Isky roadsters using the twin carb banger motor I had in my pick up. I am VERY excited about this and cant wait to start!
Thanks Rusty, looking or a T radiator and surround and also a steel turtledeck to replace the fifties era fibre one. Funny you should say that. The 32 is something that has been in my mind for about 15 years when I first rode in Dore's yellow one. But a 32 is just that - another 32. My pick up was kinda different and it has been hard to get my head around the fact that a 32 whilst is very cool is not overly unique in the same sense as what the T could be. Who knows, I may even drive it to Muscle Car Madness next year!
if you look at Elrods car its a 4 inch drop with a reversed eye spring so call it 5 inches... that to me would be about the most you could go and still have suspension travel. but that is about all you could do anyway without making frame modifications tk
Elrod, what size are your front tires? I used the tubular "A" shock links and shortened them 1 1/2" to get the shock arm angle closer to stock.
Correct me if i am wrong but the spring would have more control over wether or not the bones need t be split, not the axle? When you have a drop axle the mounting for the wishbones would stay the same. So from what I gather after a 1 inch spring drop the wishbones will need to be split. Now for the rear how much can I go? I am using a T axle in the front and an A axle in the back. I do not like the high arch of the stock A spring, has anyone swapped in a later '40's spring to get drop without doing a large kick up in the frame? I am not sure how low I want it to be so i want to build the frame than then play around with the suspension to get it to the ride height I want.
Today I started to mock up the T with the banger motor from my pick up I dont get the rest of the running gear until a couple of weeks but I still have to remount the body etc
That looks like a great start, years ago I had a T project with an A engine in it, had aluminum spacers cast to fill in the frame to bellhousing gap. What do you plan to use for wheels?
Thanks mate, I am humbled. Its going to roll on 21 inch Model A wheels and I have a set of 16 inch wires too! Thanks mate, I will keep updating on here as I go
Its going to look neat Greg but dont over cook it leave some patina on it well for a while at least just like they did in the old days Neat
Got the roadster pretty much done. Running a bit rough, it misses under load and the more advance I give it the worse it gets. Engine ran great in my couoe for over a year and never a problem. I pulled the carb and cleaned it all out/blew through passages. Anyone have an idea?? Work distributor drive/drive shaft can do this I hear...but like I said never did thi in the old car.
Chris, I had a similar problem a couple of weeks ago. Car ran fine when I parked it. Next day it was running like crap. It wouldn't take any throttle and it would miss sporadicly. I went through the distributor and checked point gap and timing. Cleaned and polished the points, no change. Put a new set of points in, still no change. Changed the condenser, problem gone. How fresh is the ignition system?. .
I went through it when I got my coupe on the road 2 years ago. Never game me the slightest problem until now. Maybe I'll pick up a condensor tomarow and see. Cheap part anyways Wish I had another distributor to stab in it just to find out! Thanks Crazy!
I just replaced my "B" Dis with a FSI unit. I like it so far. I get to really flog it Sunday at the Antique Nats . .
Cool car! Good Job! I built a T on an A Chassis and had the same problem with weepy head bolts especially the water neck! I wasn't able to read every response so my suggestions may have already been made. Anyway, The silicon idea is a good idea on the water neck! Sodium Silicate seems to help seal up things when you put it in with your water, so I would try that. Don't run newer anti-freeze, I wouldn't run any antifreeze just straight water! Antifreeze seems to cause things to leak. Just use tap water or if you're running an aluminum head use distilled water so it is easier on the head. Make sure if you are running an aluminum head that you use hardened washers under the head nuts/bolts probably smart on an iron head too! Run it till it gets to operating temp, then retorque in th eappropriate pattern! Let it get stone cold then repeat, do this several times, I kept the torque wrench in my T for like two weeks and did it on the road or whenever I took it out for a spin! Make sure your overflow tube is clear on your radiator as pressure building up can cause leaks on a non-pressureized system! Hope that helps. In a pinch, I have used black pepper to stop leaks! Most importantly, Have fun! Good luck!
Chris , I like the headlite bar on your roadster, Is it a swapmeet score or something you had fab'd. ForEverFour, Hope your Project T comes out as nice as the 29 did. Nice shop you have also.
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