Set back on y block build

I purchased a y block that was bored out .60 over, decked and the crank is .10 over. I got everything with the deal minus the oil pan,heads, vallet cover and some other odds and ends. I started claning it today for ***embly and I found a few issues that will be a big issue. Please tell me its not too bad. Here are the pics.

See the little ridges in cylinder three? You can feel them with your finger nail. Would it work to hone it?


Also where the rear main seal is a part of the casting has been broken off.


I seriously dont know what to do, Im pretty bummed out.

 

Kind of far down in the bore for a ridge....

I cant tell how deep it is, so I cant tell for sure, but if it is not worse than it LOOKS, I would be tempted to try and clean it up with a hone and run it.

But I often take silly chances with stuff like that...

 

I'd be tempted to take it to the machine shop now, while it's in pieces rather than later,when it's in the car. That being said, I've never had an engine machined, so what do I know?

 

I will agree with the machine shop part... I want to THINK that a Y block can go more than .060... but yea, I never had a Y-block Ford so what do I know...

Worst case, you could have that cylinder sleeved....

The area around the oil seal really would not bother me much. if the seals halves were rotated in it's bore a little where the ends would not be in the same place as the chip I don't think it would even matter. (Ideally neoprene seals should be rotated a little anyway)

 

The broken portion of the block back by the rear main seal is a big problem. Guarantees a big leak in that area. Getting a good oil tight seal even with a non chipped block, with neoprene requires technique. Cant see the cylinder well enough to make a comment except take it to a machine shop. Too bad you arent closer, I have 3 extra blocks in the barn.

 

I was really not looking forward to this. I have brand new .60 over pistons, new rods, bearings,oil pump. Pretty much everything.

 

Soo I might aswell toss this anchor then?

 

I live in socal, can anyone refer me to a local machine shop? Whitter,la mirada,santa fe springs, la habra?

 

A good welder can fix that main seal retainer.

 

i would not take much to get another block ya know but i think it would be safer to start with a block you know thats good..

 

I have been looking and looking for a good motor and nothing around here. I dont have much more cash laying around unfortunately.

 

Do you have the broken piece?

That and some JB Weld would probably do it.

 

Put yblock in a search at the Inland Empire Craigslist. There is a 272 going for 350. You will have to ask someone better versed in Y Blocks than me, but I think all you would have to do is bore it size.

 

John Mummert is in El Cajon, CA, 1-619-596-0312. If that is close he is one of the BEST Y experts. Currently he is getting ready to release his new aluminum 4V intake and aluminum Y heads.

Before welding on the block check out the bores. Also have the machine ship check out the alignment of main journals. If the block needs rebored, align honed, and welded find another better block. They can often go well over 60 OS but the cylinder walls should be sonic tested first. The engine I just replaced was 80 OS of a 292 bore.
If another block is found, plan on having to do the full monty, unless you are very lucky. Decking, bore, align hone. On the decking take .015 off to help bring up the pistons for a little better CR. It would be better though to install the new crank, and rods/pistons and measure the distance of each piston to the top of the deck, before decking. Then you could zero deck to the tallest rod for even more improvement in CR. My rebuilt rods were all exactly the same length due to an excellent machinist. Decked the block .028 so all the clearances are .004 in the hole.
Check out the site www.yblocksforever.com (there should be a - between y and blocks which for some reason cant be put into the post).
$350 for a run of the mill used Y is a lot of money in my book. I never pay over 150, preferrably 100 or under.

 

I cant go to memmert, its too far and price is out of my range.

 

I agree 350 is a bit high. But I have been pricing a second block for myself. Sadly enough Y-blocks may not be a favorite, but it has become choice #2 after a flathead. So prices are climbing.

And it also came with a 3-spd so that means a good bellhousing for a T-5 conversion.

I also heard a rumor that there is a '60 model truck over at the Pick-a-Part on Milliken in Ontario. You may be lucky with that.

I need to get over there to see if I can find a driver's side fender for mine.

 

Can you discuss this with the person who sold you the block? A fresh from the machine shop cylinder should not have a ridge in it. Something is not right here. But i would try to hone it if you can't work anything out with the seller. Maybe try to drill and tap for a small allen bolt to put in where the piece is broken off and file it to add some support for the seal.

 

I can't really tell how big the ridge is, but if you can easily feel it with your fingernail, then it will probably just chew up the rings or the ridges will lie down with some run time and then the rings will not seat. Either way involves pulling it back out or living with a smoking engine.

From what I've read some y-blocks can be bored out quite a bit, especially '58 292s, but if you already have .060 over pistons...

depending on what year and size that y-block is I'd either get another set of pistons and bore it out a little more, or find another block and get it bore to .060 over.

I'd think the rear main problem would be another incentive to get another block.

 

I would sleeve the cyl a good machine shop will do it for around a hundred bucks or so, as for the seal support find a farm equipment shop with a welding service they'll be able to fix it they're used to welding on cast iron maybe you could try that high strength mainfold paste that POR-15 makes if you can machine, drill, and tap it why not try to build the broken tab back up? Worth a try

 

i dont see a ridge?, all i see is cross hatch.

 

Can you get a better pic. of the area? Is that a shadow or something else in the pic? Are you talking about a ridge that runs around or up and down the cyl? Are the hone marks continues around the cyl?

 

Look in the top left of the picture, the damage is in the cylinder

 

What do your bores mic out at? If this is foreign to you then get a machinist to look at your block and other parts. The broken wall in the seal area cannot be fixed with glue as it would not be in compression and would just fall off, but welding would be rather extreme, why not use br***? That would be plenty strong and also easier to shape. Maybe make a filler piece from steel then braze it in place.

 

As for the bore , what is the bore size right now ? Remember a 292 .060 over can got to a 312 piston size with a .060 if needed . Many people take a 292 and use over bore 312 pistons so I think you are OK there . I would tale to a machinist to get their opinion . They are the professionals . Also I don't know what you have in the block but a 292 is not hard to get ! Depending on where you live I see them all the time on Egay & Craigs list . I have turned down (2 )-292's in the past week and one of them was $100 and the guy was going to give me 2 trans with it . They are out there for $100 running . I have 2 myself but I am in Pa. Also if the broken part can be welded , I would have the machinist do a "Sonic" test on the cylinders before paying anymore .

 

The bore is .60 over. The part that broke off I dont have. If you look carefully in the picture you can see there are pretty good size scratches and Im not talking about "cross hatch" Its kinf od hard getting good pics from my camera and the block doesnt help.

 

what is the difference between a sonic test & a magnaflux & which is better I need to have my 312 checked out.

 

I have several Y blocks there strong engines If your worried about cylinder 3 take it to a machine shop have them look at it and if they say it needs work. Have them sleeve and rebore that cylinder only about $90-$120 to do and can save that in aggravation later.

 

Yeah, Im still not sure what the difference is. Somebody will post it soon.

 

Give me a list of what you need!! I have piles of Y block parts and good blocks too! I live in North Centeral Washington, shipping is not too bad on small parts but a block might hurt! Let me know and I'll dig through my stuff!

 

Big difference!! A sonic test is used to determine the thickness of a given material, ie, cylinder wall.
Magnaflux is a surface examination that is commonly used to locate and define cracks in ferrous material.


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