Register now to get rid of these ads!

Engine rebuilding Problems.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fighter-of-Wars, Jun 30, 2009.

  1. Fighter-of-Wars
    Joined: Nov 3, 2008
    Posts: 293

    Fighter-of-Wars
    Member

    So here is the story on my 1965 Ford 352FE. I got my engine from the machine shop a few weeks ago and started putting it together. Got the camshaft in alright and proceed to put the crank in. Well I set it in and put the caps on and torgue it halfway down (about 50ft lbs) and try to rotate it slightly. It doesn't budge. I finally got it to budge a little but it took a good bit of push.

    The bearings I put in are standard, and the crank is standard, just polished. The caps are in the right order and I oiled the bearings and crank before I installed them. Anyone have any ideas how to fix this or if this is normal?

    Thanks ahead of time.
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,014

    squirrel
    Member

    should spin freely when the caps are torqued.

    Did you double check to make sure the bearing caps are in the correct way, both (upper and lower half) tangs on the same side?
     
  3. Fighter-of-Wars
    Joined: Nov 3, 2008
    Posts: 293

    Fighter-of-Wars
    Member

    I'm pretty sure I did. The caps all have arrows facing towards the front of the engine. Course it was getting late and I might has missed one or 2. What else could it be?
     
  4. ottoman
    Joined: May 4, 2008
    Posts: 341

    ottoman
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Did you have it align honed?.... most FE's that come through my shop need it.
    But as posted make sure you have the caps on right and the thrust bearing set before you torque it up.
    Also was the crank checked for straightness when they measured and polished it?
     
  5. Fighter-of-Wars
    Joined: Nov 3, 2008
    Posts: 293

    Fighter-of-Wars
    Member

    I don't think it was aligned honed. I will have to check though. Also, the machinest didn't polish the crank in-house so I don't know what all they did to it, but the tag says standard on the rod and main journals.
     
  6. thebigdaddyo
    Joined: Jan 12, 2009
    Posts: 551

    thebigdaddyo
    Member

    Any shiny spots on the bearings after you tried to turn it? could be a bad batch. Also check the number on the box, maybe wrong bearings/ Main journal size is 2.749.
     
  7. recardo
    Joined: Aug 31, 2006
    Posts: 833

    recardo
    Member
    from Winslow

    Definately pull it apart. Do a visual of each bearing (mic it if you can). Read the size on the back of each for a start.
     
  8. Fighter-of-Wars
    Joined: Nov 3, 2008
    Posts: 293

    Fighter-of-Wars
    Member

    Thanks for the tips everyone. I will definatly check and recheck everything tommorow.
     
  9. Dyce
    Joined: Sep 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,980

    Dyce
    Member

    Try full torque on the cap bolts. The bearings are not round untill you get to full torque. They are a press fit, and are likly pinching the crank at the centerline. One more thing to check is the thrust. You may need to realign the thrust. The way I do this is not fully torque the thrust and hit the crank forward and back with a good size hammer. Sounds crude but it can really free things up....
    Jeff
     
  10. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,752

    bobss396
    Member

    If you decide to pull it apart, measure up the crank with a good micrometer just to KNOW what you have and compare it to the specs.

    Bob
     
  11. Did it spin in just sitting in the saddles? It is good practice to check it with every main your install, so if something is wrong, you know where the problem is.

    Checking everything with plastigage is also important.

    Pull it back apart and inspect everything, look for marks on the bearings and burrs on the crank.
     
  12. american opel
    Joined: Dec 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,222

    american opel
    Member
    from ohio

    did you check clearance with plastic gadge?im not sure what the clearance should be for your motor but i always check each one when i get them back from emgine shop.also make sure you check the rod bearings also..001-.003 i think
     
  13. Wrong size/mispackaged bearings?...
     
  14. Good point here. You should always mic the crank and bearings and check the main saddles for alignment, if the shop had to send the crank out to be polished I doubt the have a line hone.
     
  15. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,342

    73RR
    Member

    Does this engine use a rope seal? Was it properly installed?


    .
     
  16. Revhead
    Joined: Mar 19, 2001
    Posts: 3,027

    Revhead
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

    At work we have seen brand new bearings that have quite a bit of variation in thickness. What we do, is install the bearings without the crank, tighten everything down as it should be and measure the inside diameter. Then measure the crank journal diameter. Subtract the two and see what your clearance is. Of course you will need some precise measuring tools to do this, but we've had teh same problem and it turned out the be brand new bearings with poor quality constraints.

    Also make sure the journals are absolutely clean, wipe them down with mineral spirits, then add ***embly lube.

    Also some bearings shells end up with tiny flakes of metal on the surface from manufacturing, sometimes you can pick them off with a fingernail and sometimes you need to use water and lighty rub with a scotchbrite pad. These tiny flakes will stop a crank from rotating. Make sure you check the front and back of the bearing.
     
  17. Fighter-of-Wars
    Joined: Nov 3, 2008
    Posts: 293

    Fighter-of-Wars
    Member

    Well, I made a very dumb mistake. Thrust bearings on FE go on the #3 main not the #5. I called my machinest up to ask about it and he drove 30 miles out to my shop this evening to check it out. He pointed out my mistake and boy I felt stupid. The bearing looked alright and we checked everything out and put it back together with the thrust bearing in the correct main and the crank turned easily. While he was down we also put the timing chain on and he decided to put my new rod bolts in and check the rods for roundness at his shop tommorow.
     
  18. recardo
    Joined: Aug 31, 2006
    Posts: 833

    recardo
    Member
    from Winslow

    OK, you are doing real good! You got a machinist to adopt you!! :p
     
  19. Frenchy Dehoux
    Joined: Mar 30, 2006
    Posts: 968

    Frenchy Dehoux
    Member

    I had the same problem except that my issue was the rope seal a bit tight but should turn OK. As long as you have clearances on the bearings ( Plastic gauge )Once it starts it will be OK.

    Thanks
    Frenchy
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.