I just got my brand new drums for the 60. I need to remove the hubs from the old ones and swap em to the new drums. Having never done this,,,I figured best to ask a few questions before screwing it up 3 times...which is how I typically work,,,, So,, anybody have a step by step? I was told by a guy at a local tire shop that the studs were swedged, and needed to be removed properly, and then re-swedged, and that only a machine shop can do this. Who can shed some light on this for me??
Tire shop is right. You need 2 tools and a press to do it right.And the drums should turned [light cut to make sure they are true] after mounting.
JOHNEVANS is correct, you need to mill off the swedge (crimp) to remove the drum. Whatever you do DO NOT try pressing out the studs without removing the swedge, you will destroy the spline (straight knurl) in the hub, then it's junk.
just got back from a brake place the relines, etc. showed them one of my original hubs/drums, and he said it WASN'T swedged....showed me where there should be 4 visible areas on the stud at drum level, and no sign of those.....now i'm gettin more and more confused.
If it Ain't Swedged the drum will slip off like the rear !!! Been in the auto trade in various capacities since 1960. And in that time have seen several different styles of swedge. One does indeed show 4 marks/dimples at the stud/drum interface. Others rolled the entire stud shoulder against the drum face [early Ford for one] so this style is not as obivious. About the first non-swedged drum brake hubs I remember seeing was in the 63-64 era. And to further complicate matters some drums/hubs were rivited ,easy to tell those though. Again if not swedged the hub/drum should seperate pretty easy even if rusted a bit. With the drum open side down on a firm surface put nuts on a couple of studs and give on eachasmack with a heavy hammer. If not swedged it should move/release. Just use a bit of common sense with the hammer!!
thanks for the good info. so, if these are indeed swedged, can i just cut em flush with the drum, drill the centers of the studs out a bit, then knock em out with a drift? and how about replacing the studs??
Use a 5/8s holesaw without the pilot bit to remove the swedge. Then either drive out or preferably use a press. Whatever way you do it support the hub with a piece of pipe or the like around the stud head so you don't screw up either the hub or drum. The main thing is not to distort the hub or strech the stud holes out of shape. You will need the special tool to re -swedge the studs. We use to sometimes not replace the studs and re-swedge them at all. If the new drum pilots nicely on the hub and sits tight on the flange you are good to go.After all thats what you are doing on the rear and what the factory did later on the fronts. Still not a bad idea to give the drums a light skim cut after mounting either way you mount them,nuts will hold them on if you don't re-swedge. Up into the 80s we considered doing a trueing cut of new drums part of the job,from OR rear. Parts changers nowdays don't have a clue !!
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