stuck drums from hell any tips

any advise on removing stuck brake drums i mean really fu@#ing stuck

i do several brake jobs a week and have little to no problems getting them off normally but two hours of prying and beating and every trick in the book and have lost the battle car 4 points me 0

any advise somthing im overlooking this is driving me crazy !!!!!!!!!

 

what kind of car? some are held on by the studs and you have to remove the wheel bearing / hub to get the drum off.

 

64 dynamic 88 the one in my avatar

 

I,m sure you have allready done it but back the brake shoes down to avoid the ridge on the drum...ghost

 

the shoes are backed down hell i do this for a living probably why im so tore up about not getting the damn things off

 

I have applied heat to the drum and some tapping that worked well.

 

I had a problem with mine on my 50 coronet. I got the kind of brake puller that bolts to the studs and you have to hammer the center arms with a 4lb sledge. That got it. I tried everything. heat, cold, pen-fluid, hammer. 5ton claw puller and nothing worked. http://50plymouth.com/07-cha/rearbrakes2.JPG

 

If there on the front and are the finned type. The wheel bearings and all will have to come off with them. As for the rear should be just drums over the studs. If it has been parked for awhile I had co****s inside the drums and when I drove my riviera it acted like a glue and took awhile to get them off. Good luck

 

the front are the type that slip on and off like the rears i can see the break in between the hub and the drum i think im gonna have to try a puller ive used pullers on alot of things but never a "brake drum puller" so im gonna have to figure out where to get one

 

hmm....is the parking brake set?

 

hmm i found em its just a puller with a wide frame kick *** thanks

i think im gonna win round two tommorow

 

Only good on tapered axle cars, Mopar up to about '62 or '64, some orphans and early stuff.

I ***ume the wheels turn and it's just stuck on the center axle hub?

The claw puller will probably bend the drum. Crank it until it's tight, then use a torch to heat the center around the axle, and maybe hit the axle itself with ice. Then crank on it a little more and see what you get. They can be a real frustrating ******* to pull, and I'm not sure if any later drums will interchange - but if there's one that matches up width and diameter I'd just smash or grind up the old ones.

 

I'd say worst case ...grind the heads off the shoe retainer studs on the backside , sounds like the front drum rivets were ground off some time ago

 

Most of the time they stick on the hub. I've taken a small die grinder and cleaned all the **** off the hub, that is outside the drum. Some of the later aftemarket drums had the register hole punched out, once the punch wore a bit, the hole got to be tappered and was too small. They went on great, but the the hole would wedge itself against the hub. For those you needed to have pressure prying out and heat the center hole at the same time. If you don't kill the drum in the process of removing it, be sure to enlarge the center hole before you reinstall the drum, or you will get to do it again the next time.

If its stuck on the shoes, get a big pair of pry bars, one on each side, and work it around the backing plate until something gives, usually the hold down springs. Fighting brake drums reminds me of one of the reasons why I like disc brakes. Gene

 

When they're stuck on the shoes I try to pop the hold downs and unbolt the wheel cylinders. Usually then you can worry them enough to get them off the pin, but it helps a lot to pry it out and take a small screwdriver and hammer it into the brake shoe material, between the metal shoe back and the drum, in as many places as possible.

 

If you can't get them off and you can find replacments, cut them in half with a cut off wheel. Sometimes this is the only way to remove them. Personally if I spend more than an hour and tried everything it's time to cut and destroy.

 

Air hammer does it every time
Gary

 

there definatly stuck on the hubs not the shoes i dont want to destroy them i have yet to evaluate what parts i need and havent even figured out were to get brake parts for this thing really i just wanted to inspect

 

if i can find it near me im thinking of soaking around the hub with kroil

 

I've had to remove them with a big sledge hammer before into peanut brittle.

 

Not sure if this is a good idea if you have aluminum drums but i did one time take a floor jack and put a little pressure on the bottom of the drum as if you were jacking the car up(just enough to move the axle)then i hit the top with a bfh,and that was enough to break it free.then i took the jack down and off it came!worth a try anyway.

 

hammer time!

 

, Since you did not your car up to the computer for us to see,
I am ***uming that the drums are rusted to the axles? Try this trick. Put the rear axle up on GOOD jack stands with the wheels off. While power braking (Apply the brakes and giving it some gas at the same time) put the trans in reverse then drive serveral times, it may bang into gears a little. This movement has been known to shock the rusted play between the drum and axle loose. Has worked for me many a time and is always worth A try. Good Luck...H

 

You should be able to get all the parts through your local NAPA part store.

 

Heat PB blaster two screw drivers a BFH and one good helper.

 

I would like to see a picture of this, Im not saying that they didnt make them, but I have never seen this type, the only ones I have ever seen are attached to the hub with rivets and even if they are not, why cant you just pull the hub and drum off together to start with and go from there?

 

That just cleared it up...take a oxy/acet torch spin the flame on the drum at the hub till a faint dull red appears , now your ready to pull 'em with gloves , a rose bud is faster but a #3 cutting tip is ok for the preheat too

 

in the past somebody probably had the same problem and beat on the axle flanges flairing the machined edges so check them and you may have to grind them a little. i have done this many times with great sucess.

 

i agree with what 55dude is saying and i like a little heat and some penitrating oil and then let them sit for about 2 hour,s if they are alum u probaly have electrollis set in if they are a cast drum then u have rust any way have fun and good luck

 

Are the shoes rusted to the drums?

I had a set like that, and I got them off by dunking the whole thing ( drum, spindle, backingplate, upright ) in a big bucket of water.

Let it soak for a couple of days.

That softened the rust enough that they came right off.

I didnt want to hammer on them because the are rare cast Aluminum with a steel liner ( like the buicks...)

This trick probably wont work if you already used some kind of penitrating oil.