wheel studs are cheap,how bout knocking them back with a hammer one at a time till you get some movement
Maybe drill a hole through the drum and flange so you can sneak a socket in and take out the nuts that holt in the axles. (***uming the drums are, in fact, not stuck on the shoes) Once the axles are out, push them out of the drums on a press.
I'm with Low Budget, at a minimum the studs are swaged into the drum on the front hubs. Pull the hubs and get them turned. If you have to replace the drums you may be able to knock the studs out, but you may have to take a die grinder to the studs close to the drum. Take a step back and look again. Good luck with it.
Heat is your friend...use it around the center of the drum. Even a hand-held propane torch will help get the drums off. I just had this same problem on an old piece of equiptment at work....played the torch around the drum's center and smacked the front surface drum right between the studs with a hammer..POP! came loose in a heartbeat. I've had to do this countless times and it always works.....ok, all except the time I bought a 35 IHC pickup that had sat outside for 40 years. I had to actually use a cutting torch to cut the drums off....wasn't planning to use 'em anyway.
DO NOT put your face or body in front of a drum you have a puller on while appling heat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Here is my take on the problem. Before you do more damage to the drums, please pull the spindle nuts and take the drum hub and all. This way at least you can really evaluate what is going on with the ***embly on the bench. Throw the whole damm thing in a bucket of kerosene, then if a no go take it to a press and then get nasty. For the rears, pull the C-clips if you have to.
thanks for the tips guys i got em off with a little help from everybodys advice pulled em off the spindle and heated em on the bench worked like a charm
I'm just gonna throw this out there. My Dad use to mess with some pretty rusty stuff. Old open flywheel gas engines. A restorer buddy of his told him to go to the drug store or health food place and buy a little bottle of Oil of wintergreen. Put some in a small syringe and use sparingly for rusted stuff. Do this BEFORE any other penetrating oil is tried though. I was absolutely amazed how it attacks rust. He put some on a head stud and nut, very shortly it came right loose. It must dissolve the rust. It's real thin liquid and your shop will smell like wintergreen. Put it up out of reach though cause it's poison . A little bottle use to be about three or four bucks but goes a long way cause you use a lot less of it than regular penetrating oil. It works great on rust, but if it's just a tight part, it's not going to help like anything else. Lippy
i wonder if thats what they put in marvel mystery oil that **** smells like wintergreen it might not be a mystery anymore
Hi 52, yes I noticed a few penetrating oils smell like wintergreen. But this stuff REALLY smells of wintergreen! Probably cause it IS huh? Here's another deal Dad showed me. He had I believe a Fairbanks & Morse engine with a rusty & stuck piston, cast iron, anyway, he got both valves closed, took the rod loose from the crank and flywheels, (open crankcase engine) then took the spark plug out and put a fitting in the hole with a grease zerk. He pumped the cyl full of grease, (don't know how many tubes, , and pumped it up tight with the grease gun. He said, now be careful or you can push the head of the piston in. We let it set for a few days, then gave it another pump. He did this for a few days and then said, hey, come here and look at this. there was grease coming through the back side of the skirt and bore. He gave it some more grease and the next day you could see it had moved, till finally it slid out! the grease kept it from damaging the piston and bore anymore. This was I believe a 6 in bore engine. I asked Dad...how much pressure will a grease gun make? He said..oh about a gozillion. Lippy
I do brakes for a living as well. I've only ever had one drum not come off easily. It was on the rear of a 1 ton dually that the rear hardware kit had broken on. Four hours later I cut it off with an air powered cut off wheel. glad you got them off.
I had a '64 88 myself and mine were stuck when I did the brakes. I've seen the same thing happen with Pontiac rears of the era even to the point where the rear wheels refused to come off. On my Olds, I took it into the shop where I worked at the time and ran an air chisel with a punch in it around the drum at the axle flange and after a few minutes on each they came off. I did have them soaking with penetrating oil first. Bob
If the last guy installed incorrect adjusters or put them on the wrong side of the car, they may be turning the wrong way.
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