Anyone ever use a side by side dual updraft (Zenith carbs)? Found one for sale and thought it might look pretty cool. Not sure about performance.
Thanks CD!! The ride went great! Since my speedo doesn't work yet ( gotta get a cable ), I cheated and used my GPS. I took the back way, a little hilly, but she did good! The fastest I went was 50mph....briefly. I looked over at the GPS, saw 50 and backed down to 45. Man, does she handle great!! The noise didn't get any worse, so I plan on driving her for the rest of the summer, then I will replace the cam & tappets. I may just pull the engine and replace the clutch/flywheel ***embly with the lightened package while she's down. She was a big hit at the show, especially with the "old timers". They really appreciated what I did with her!!
Flivver question for the Bangeren: Whats a Warford shifter look like? Is anyone making a repop of the lever and handle? -Dave
Sounds like you had fun!!! I was going to suggest that you take the engine out and lighten the flywheel. Take it down to 40 - 45 lbs. When you do the cam swap make sure you use a metal cam gear. And tighten the nut good and tight. New springs with @ .250" spacers under them to bring the seat pressure up to @ 50 -60 lbs. .
Any one any experiences with the repo. Riley two port OHV inlet conversion? I'm about to embark on rebuilding my banger, and just pondering how far to go. I guess it will be until the budget runs out. Looks like it will be a full pressure system with inserts, a counter balanced crank - pistons I'm not sure of still have to investigate, nor am I sure head or carb setup... I'm open to any sensible mods. that will give me a good strong banger, reliable enough for regular road use ( I do about 6000 miles a year), and fast enough to give some excitement at the strip once or twice a year.
i am in the same boat as you i was lucky enough to have a riley fall into my lap so that is the way i am going. everyone i have talked to say to go with a sbc (283) piston. I am going to do the oil pump mods and the full pressure treatment (mains and rods) also but on a b motor. i would love to put an old supercharger on it to give it the over the top cool affect but i dont think the budget will allow i was told that the riley will give you 80hp out of the box so as lkong as you dont over rev it and keep it under 60 for a sustained time you should be ok tk
the guys that are making the new warford, use an exact repop of the original casting, they maybe able to help. http://www.laynemachine.com/KCWarford.htm
Its a hand made 4" x 2" channel frame with 28 A running gear Check out the seperate thread I have done on it Thanks
Enlighten me some. Which shocks should I use for my gow job? Picked up some shocks that I have yet to see any of. Manufactured in ENGLAND and they appear to be replacements for model A shocks. The only hitch is that they will not fit a fendered car that I have been told do to the bolt hole placement puttint the shocks to high to clear the fenders. I am not running with fenders but would like to get schooled a bit if anyone knows anything about these particular English shocks. I am leaning towards using them.-Weeks 40's Ford Bottom Shock Middle 1928-31 Model A Ford Shock Top English Shock used on??????? Tried to give some scale, did not feel necessary to measure each shocks dimensions. Can if needed for any of ya fellas need for your reference. 40 ford backside. Model A shock backside English shock backside. And so you know its from England.
Been laughing my *** off all day about Jordan (5wbomber) saying "its so over carberated its retarted" Hey Jordan, my vote is for 17" wires on your truck - they are my favorites on Model As with fenders. Cool truck! Will Kimble
Found this little bit of info concerning the English made lever dampers that Weeks46 shared. It was from gracesguide.co.uk. Universal was represented at the '63 Motor Show at Earl's Court, London. The 1949 ad states there were two versions at the time. Apperently they were for small and large cars. Maybe different arms were used to adapt them to specific models. Link: http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/wiki/Universal_Dampers I have seen a couple at swap meets, but never a pair. They look sure good.
Thank you for the response. I think they may look very cool just as the fella who I got them from said they might. Anyone else out there seen this type of shock, the english made one in my last post?-Weeks
Some of the Model A parts vendors sold the Rotoflow shocks in the early 60's as replacements for the original Ford shocks. I have seen them on full fendered cars. Always thought they looked good.
If you look closely in my pictures they have been grinded down long ago to try to make them work on a fendered model a. Point was made to me by the fella I got these from that they would not fit an A and he is the authority here in Bako and mainly around the central valley for many A owners. I watched him pour babbitt today if that says anything to you banger fellas.-Weeks
Depends on how long the Babbit lasts Was he pouring mains? Is it true that Jim Richardson painted his 32 with housepaint?
Some of his engines have gone 30,000 miles. I have yet to hear anyone who has had a motor built by the guy complain. On the other hand I have heard some complaints about costly repairs from the flathead shop down south and their MG bearings.-Weeks
Yes, he was pouring mains and has been rebuilding engines for about 20 years by his account and club members confirming also since I have been around.-Weeks
Do you have an original 2 port or is it a C Yapp repop? There are some differences such as the head gaskets are not interchangeable. Most SBC pistons have valve reliefs in them. I use a SBC style from J&E. There are some for "A" "B" from Mike's pistons. There are a lot of variables such as cam, compression, and carburation . The 60 limit would depend on gear ratio. The 80 horsepower bolt would be like a "blue printed" engine. When the SBC came out in the mid "50"'s they advertised (from my foggy memory) 165 horsepower but Hot Rod could only get 130 or 135 on a dyno. The 165 number was from a perfectly "blueprinted" engine, not a production run engine.
We got the banger pulled a couple nights back. Made "lifting plugs" like someone mentioned and pulled it with my leveler via the plug holes, thanks for that tip! Have not messed with the dizzy or pulled the head yet, we will see, lots of **** in there from Mickey M.
hey gang....i've got a banger babbit question....can you acturately remove shims from rods and mains with the engine in the car hooked to the ******. i want to be able to take a shim out and then spin the crank to see if it added drag.....any comments? i'm told by 40 year builder that plasti-guage doesn't work on babbit.
Yep done it this week, the old tin foil trick. Fold a piece of tin foil (the good industrial cooking strength stuff) in half and if it locks tight, take it out so it turns Ok, Or use plastigauge... Why do they say Plastigauge don't work? On the big ends I settled for .002... It's worth searching fordbarn for a better description.
Picked up a genuine '32 p***enger grill and insert yesterday from a good friend. Sanded it up, shot some black on it and tried it out on the coupe. Looks different than the yellow nose!
I tinkered with the jets in my Holley and gave the engine a little more timing, I drove my A this evening to a local cruise-in for a test drive. It has never ran so well. That feeling was short lived. After sitting at the show ~30 minutes I started the engine to leave and heard a loud knock knock knock sound that lasted about 20 seconds and went away. I shut off the engine and started it up again and no noise. I went to a friends house and the engine ran great and sounded fine; after sitting about 20 minutes I started the engine and knock knock knock came from the engine. Once again after 20 seconds the sound went away. I don't have an oil pressure gauge on the engine to check for pressure but I would have thought if it is the result of a lack of oil the knock would be all the time. Babbet bearings Factory oiling system Fiber timing gear Two piece crank pulley Any ideas?
Get the sump off and have a look, sounds like there is to much clearance somewhere until the oil gets around. I don't think an oil pressure gauge will show you anything (normally only run upto 5PSI?) As noted above you can reshim the banger in the car - ***uming the white metal is still OK, fingers crossed and good luck!
Looks great!!! The fed-ex ground guy dropped this off today So on a stock A motor (I may convert to a Mallory and eventually find a winfield head) can I run 2 94s or will I need to figure out how to run a pair of 1 barrels? I figure the 3 bolt to 2 bolt adapters wouldn't be that tough to make if I go 1 bbl but I have 2-94s today (one 7RT and one 8BA). I don't want to drown it:
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