Deep Holesaws for notchers......feedback please.

gasserjohn · Jul 18, 2009

Look at Blair equipment co. com there cutting tools are the type you s/b endorsing i think will last a life time in home shop use

bonez · Jul 20, 2009

metalshapes said: ↑

What I could really use is a holesaw with a higher tooth count.

Something that will work on thinner material, and wont try to grip and rip its own teeth off as soon as you touch the piece youre working on.

( specially if you come in at an angle, like with a tubing notcher...)
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X 2. This is also another issue i seem to encounter pretty often, and like NRchopshop said, the uncentered arbor hole makes the "short" ones wobbly, imagine this long one.....Still if not too pricey ill try one.

BAILEIGH INC · Jul 20, 2009

LUX BLUE said: ↑

if You're sending out samples, I'm Your huckleberry.

what would be a HUGE benifit would also be one with a bit thicker wall.

on 1 3/4 inch pipe, .180 wall, I have to reach in and break the center of the tube out with a screwdriver halfway through the cut. every part of it is hot and sharp.

suffice to say it ****s. it's a good way to bleed and burn at the same time.
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OK, sounds good. I will let you know if we are going to run with these or not.

Toymont · Jul 20, 2009

We could give them a workout at the Strange Days shop also!

BAILEIGH INC said: ↑

OK, sounds good. I will let you know if we are going to run with these or not.
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bigblock225slant6 · Jul 20, 2009

screw that, i can notch mine in 8 seconds with my pipe notcher and thats just by myself, if i have help it goest down to 4 seconds.

Crankhole · Jul 20, 2009

notrod13 said: ↑

after talking with my friend that builds cl*** 1 trophey trucks for a living I stopped using whole saws for notching .. he told me a way better way to do it without the use of the saw , it just takes too long .
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'splain.

Kenneth S · Jul 20, 2009

metalshapes said: ↑

What I could really use is a holesaw with a higher tooth count.

Something that will work on thinner material, and wont try to grip and rip its own teeth off as soon as you touch the piece youre working on.

( specially if you come in at an angle, like with a tubing notcher...)
Click to expand...

My dad who has over 65 years of machining, fabricating experience (this also applies to band saws when cutting steel, especially sheet metal) has all ways told me that you should have a minimum of 3 teeth on the thickness of the steel to be cut so that it keeps the saw from wanting to rip the teeth off, so lets say your notching a piece of chrome molly tubing with a .058 wall the minimum teeth per inch should be around 52, you can use less teeth per inch using the correct feet per minute speed along with using very slow quill feed, I get alot of life out of my holesaws for notching tubing because I have a dedicated drill press (so it doesn't allow the saw to chatter, that's another killer of holesaws) just for my tubing notcher that runs slow enough to not overheat the hole saw (but not too slow), it also takes a little time to develop a feel for how pressure to put on the quill feed. Also if you are trying to use carbon steel hole saws on steel your just wasting time, there great for wood not so much for steel, bi-metal holesaws (they use high speed steel for the teeth) is the way to go.

My tube notcher setup, in order to use the 5"+ deep hole saws you would have to make the notcher taller for the deeper hole saw, and make it even taller to allow notching for 45+ degrees.

I use this for "fine tuning" the notch for a perfect fit.

metalshapes · Jul 20, 2009

Kenneth S said: ↑

...so lets say your notching a piece of chrome molly tubing with a .058 wall the minimum teeth per inch should be around 52, you can use less teeth per inch using the correct feet per minute speed along with using very slow quill feed...
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That is exactly where I spent most of my time with holesaws.

I used to build Chrome Molly Re***bent bycicle frames, out of thin wall tubing.

The shop where I worked at did not have a Mill or a Drillpress.

So I had to do that with a hand held air drill.

A mill, a drillpress, or more teeth per inch would have been a big improvement.

But since then I've run into lots of situations where more teeth per inch would have been great...

Kenneth S · Jul 20, 2009

metalshapes said: ↑

I had to do that with a hand held air drill./QUOTE]

The very first time with the tubing notcher I tried to use an hand held air drill, I wasted 3 hole saws on one notch, all the teeth were gone (the hand held air drill was very hard to control the downward pressure), the $150.00 drill press I got off of craigslist worked great once I found the right speed. After getting the feet per minute close, and the feel for how much quill feed pressure to use I used only one 1 5/8" hole saw to do 5 roll bars (.134" mild steel), 6 full roll cages (.134" mild steel), and 2 full roll cages (.065" chrome molly), and 2 funny car roll cages (.083" chrome molly), and the hole saw still has all the teeth still on it, and it still cuts good.
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Johnny99 · Jul 20, 2009

I mounted a coolant pump on the wall behind the drill press so I could keep the hole saw constantly flooded with coolant while notching, definitely helps with the longevity of the hole saw. As with others on this thread love the idea of a hole saw with more teeth. NHRA boys were in town this last weekend [Seattle] put on a NICE cacklefest! John

53sled · Jul 20, 2009

LUX BLUE said: ↑

it's a good way to bleed and burn at the same time.
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So you have been to Breeder's house?

Vance · Jul 20, 2009

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Little Wing · Jul 20, 2009

cost ?

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Deep Holesaws for notchers......feedback please.

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bigblock225slant6
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from Tucson mississippi

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