1953 lincoln capri. So my brake pedal goes all the way to the floor with zero stopping problem. I was told that brake master cylinder for these goes out relatively easily. Was told i could convert to a standard brake setup incase something else along the line goes bad again. I tried searching for some info but could only come up with conversion to power brakes. Any one have any idea how to do this? <script src="http://www.coolchaser.com/javascripts/freecause.js" type="text/javascript"></script><script src="http://www.coolchaser.com/javascripts/freecause.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
your pedal goes to the floor but the car stops fine? you want to convert your single master cylinder to a duel master cylinder?
It is really easy. You just fab up a mount that puts a mustang 1" drum/drum master in place of the stocker. If its still under the floor, nobody has to know you have better brakes. Flame on.
What is "non standard" about the braking system on a Capri? If it goes all the way to the floor but stops OK, sounds like you need to adjust the brakes and linkage. I doubt the master cylinder "goes out" easily on Capris. I would go through the entire system, if you haven't already done so.
I second the idea to go through the entire system if you haven't already. I also second the idea to add in a dual m/c - cheap insurance. Not everyone is familiar with your exact m/c and mounting - so it would be helpful for some pics - it would allow more detialed advice IMHO
Pretty sure he means it won't stop at all. Is there still fluid in the m/c? When my edsel lost it's brakes it was leaky wheel cylinders and a bad brake line. The reason they say to upgrade the m/c is that the newer dual-pot units keep the fluid for the front and back separate to give some redundancy. It's a good upgrade, but it won't help much if you have a hemorrhage in your brakes somewhere. You've got to diagnose the issue before changing parts around. Give all the info you can and I'm sure you'll get the answers you need.
That car has a firewall mounted " Treadlevac" . Very pricey to repair and not many people do it. The MC section is NOT removable without taking the entire unit apart. Updating to a 8" dual diaphram dual cylinder is probabley the smart way to go here as much as I hate to say it.
Swollen rubber brake hoses could be the culprit. In your drive way pump them up really hard with both feet and see what gives.
yeah. heres a shot of it. how would i got about updating it? <script src="http://www.coolchaser.com/javascripts/freecause.js" type="text/javascript"></script><script src="http://www.coolchaser.com/javascripts/freecause.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
and i meant it had zero stopping power. not problem. lol. <script src="http://www.coolchaser.com/javascripts/freecause.js" type="text/javascript"></script><script src="http://www.coolchaser.com/javascripts/freecause.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
The drum brakes on thes cars are excellent, the weak spot is the Treadle-Vac.... Replacement is as easy as the picture makes it look...
Can you tell me how you up graded your Capri breaks I have a 55. Can I just buy a dual master cylinder
This thread was from 2009. Pretty sure that you are not going to get an answer. The member has not been online since April 7, 2015.
In any case, if you want to run an aftermarket booster and master cylinder, you will also have to ditch the pedal assembly that went with the Treddle-Vac setup. It's function makes it of the wrong ratio to push a conventional setup. There are literally tons of aftermarket pedal assemblies available, or you could crawl the yards and find a donor.
I agree with Gimpy about the pedal assy ratio, and wonder if an assy from the same year Ford or Merc. might work. the bodies are very close to the same. Should a lot more of the Ford and Merc pieces available, repro or OEM.
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