I've used the high-temp "Right Stuff" before without problem, should I not do this any more? The intake is in close proximity to the exhaust but I don't think it gets hot enough to effect the sealant?
Gave my mostly stock banger some exercise this past week in Georgia. Did a 150 mile tour with the local HCCA chapter I used to belong to. 12 cars total, 7 Model A's, 2 Model T's And from my grandfathers garage a hopped up '47 Ford, '30 Rolls Royce Phantom One and '21 Silver Ghost. It was a lot of fun and the only mechanical issue of the day happened to a Rolls. Shoullda bought a Ford!
A few days ago I posted about my thrust problem. In researching this it would seem that when you are on the line and winding the engine up you are applying a forward thrust on the flywheel caused by the spring pressure of the pressure plate. So I'm puzzled. The reason for this is that when I built my "A" I used a Hays 10" clutch which is actually a 10.4 diameter clutch that bolts to a 10" Ford pattern. The clutch that I purchased was rated at 2800 lbs. When I called Center force about reducing the thrust of the pressure plate I was told to send it back and they would remove 3 springs which would lower the pressure to 1800 + lbs. At this time Center force had recently purchased Hays clutch. Hays would repair or modify their product but center Force now says they will only sell you a new product. Any way, I had a very hard time finding info regarding Borg and Beck Long type pressure plate spring rates. I called Clutchmasters and was told by a "tech" that he didn't Know but would guess the 9" to be about 1100 lbs, and the 10" a couple of hundred lbs more. So I kept digging and found a reference to Borg and Beck spring rates, Orange springs, (light duty) averaged 135 lbs Red, (heavy duty) averaged 155 lbs. making the 9" that i have 1215 lbs and the 10" 1395 assuming it is a pick up plate which is what I asked for. I used the Hays clutch for 5 or 6 years in the "A" block with 180 degree thrust although we did replace thrust when we broke the crank a couple of times. This was almost entirely with the Hays at 1800 lbs. More trvia for you!1 One more thing regarding my earlier post where I stated the Al. V8 flywheel weighed 9 lbs. yesterday i weighed it myself on a Balance type scale and it weighs 11.5 lbs.
Okey dokey, haha. I'll just put 'em in dry then. I went to work expecting to make my own gaskets, but was suprised to fine that we had identical gaskets in stock, and better yet we were overstock so I got 8 for free haha.
Had a buddy with a 30's Silver Wraith- he always said: "What Ford could do with 5 moving parts, Rolls would use 50+..."
If you ever get a chance, just play around with the spark and gas levers on a P-1, it really is art work. The amount of engineering that went into those cars is very impressive. A '14 ghost alpine eagle touring would look nice in my driveway.
Yep! It was just a small tour the local chapter put together. Most any antique car is welcome to come out and have fun. We would have brought more brass cars but they are all down at the moment.
Overengineering at it's finest. I had to detail the underside of the Ghost on a lift, it really is a work of art.
A buddy heard a "bad" sound a couple of weeks ago. Opened it up and this was the result. The half top was all that didn't end up in the pan. nice big hole punched thur the water jacket in a spot.
When my dad worked for Kirsch Chevrolet (Bala, PA) in the 50's, he got a call to "help a gentleman with an older car"- turned out to be a Rolls from the late teens - early 20's that needed a little tuning. Long story short, the owner had the pistons firing at 1 cylinder per second before he and my dad took it out for a test drive.
I put in a new gasket, improved a little bit but still not back to where it was running earlier this week. I have spark going to my plugs, now I wonder if my plugs are sparking? Perhaps I fouled my plugs?
Compression test? Timing set properly? How stock of an engine are we talking here? Carb/jets/fuel line clean? How old are your points or have you gone electronic?-Weeks
Pretty much been doing the same with the Cee-dan. Prescott a couple of weeks ago, touring the Forest of Dean and Goucestershire. About 700 miles or so over 5 days. 12 hour journey home in torrential rain... didn't miss a beat but lost my lights. Last weekend a 300 plus back road round trip to the Hayride. Lowered the rear with a T-spring recently - bit too soft for a heavy Fordor although it rides nice until you're 5-up! Tarted it up for a trip to Prescott with some gaudy rims n' whitewalls. Took the chance to hide it in the carpark in a suitable spot... Caught some dapper gent sneaking a peak at the awesome powerplant that lurks within.. THIS - has been working unbelievably well! I now have a pair and a cunning plan... Originally fitted to a Rover 12 with a 1500cc engine, I didn't seriously expect great things. Honestly? didn't expect it to run beyond tickover! Fitted a lambda sensor and monitor and it actually runs slightly rich during acceleration and stays in the rich end of 'green' when cruising - never leans out even into the satnav 70's which I feel is plenty fast enough for a mechanical braked barn door. One the way home from the Hayride, long curving slip road and I heard a faint 'doink' - check them rims for pits on the inside! Bought these painted, mint on the outside, small amount of pitting around the bead - nothing to worry about? Looking like a clown car now with one red wheel...
The red wheel will match the Tom's! Me I've been for my last long journey in the with 4 banger power. 280 miles or so to the Hot Rod Hayride, great fun, cruised at 50ish most of the way (completely stock - managed to blow the last bangers centre main a couple of months ago so we slapped in a another one for the time being), pushing it a bit more the closer I got to home on the return journey. I've enjoyed my time in banger land, and will probably return with a special made up from the parts I'm taking off the Sports Coupe. A picture from the Hayride of my Coupe: And for those that haven't seen the Hot Action from the Hayride this is Clark (enbloc on here) in his Dads B banger powered Coupe at the Oval Track: Doing well... Going a bit too well... Just about ready for take off In flight Safe landing
Engine is stock save for the touring ground cam, it was rebuilt some time ago an is .080 overbore. Zenith updraft. My point are good, as my condenser should be. I bought the modern points set that moves the condenser into the inside of the distributor to get et away from the heat. Timing is my next guess, although I'm not sure how it would have became 'out of time'. We had a similar issue with a friends banger when his dist. loosened off, but mine is still tight. Thanks for all th help guys, it's appreciated.
Nice catch Enbloc !!!!!!!!!!!!! You couldn't have gone further with out a full roll!!!!!!! How was that adrenaline rush? .
Found out that the crank bolt for the '30 is longer than the '28. Took my 2 piece crank pulley out when it walked out enough to break the tabs off! New one came today!!! Hopefully will be cruising tonight.....weather permitting!!!
Got a question. What octane are you guys running with your higher compression heads?? Can you get more timing out of it with premium??
Thanks CD! Next load will be premium. Got another question, what's the wheel lug torque? Couldn't find the spec anywhere. I don't like just "tight", I need to know I have the proper clamp load. Anal?? Maybe. Will it be right?? Yep!
Another question, resistor ignition cables? Or, no? It seems to be running fine with the resistor cables, should I run the solid core cables? Will I notice a difference in performance?
The only reason to run resistor wire or plugs is if you have a radio, CB, or electronic ignition. Other wise wire is best. Resister wires will reduce the power to the spark plug. Measurable? yes. Can you feel the difference? Probably not. P.S. I run solid wires with my FS ignition distributor with no interference problems. .
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